With temperatures finally dropping, and frosts appearing, then it might be time to consider white wines that are a little more robust, have greater depth and range of flavours, as winter dishes start being considered for suppers and dinner parties.
The team at Lea & Sandeman recently introduced me to a new South African agency that this London-based merchant had acquired: Damascene.
I tasted a variety, but the whites stood out as my firm favourites. Three were ordered for in-depth consideration, and a panel assembled to assess their suitability for this winter.
They were received with a very positive enthusiasm.
Jean Smit, the winemaker at this estate, has worked across the globe in various locations. My ears pricked up when I heard he had studied Syrah under Stéphane Ogier in Côte Rôtie - Ogier has been my most exciting visit this year - as well as stints in Russian River, Marlborough and Napa. He knows what he is doing and will definitely be on the list for a visit when next in Cape Town.
1 - 2021 Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch, Damascene
Lea & Sandeman - £36.50 - case price, can be bought by the bottle
This wine is made from three sites, one planted in 1972, and two in 1981. These older vines give a very pronounced and distinctive expression to the wine. There is a warm gracefulness on the nose and flavours of peaches and lemons greet you. Perhaps a touch of quince. Rich and full on the palate with an excellent balance of fruit and acidity combined with very good length. Baked salmon, paella, prawn risotto spring to mind.
2 - 2021 Chenin Blanc Swartland, Damascene
Lea & Sandeman - £36.50 - case price, can be bought by the bottle
Fuller, more concentrated than the Stellenbosch cousin. Perhaps needs a little more time but still delicious today. Dover sole, turbot, a rich fish pie would all sit alongside this dish to perfection.
3 - 2021 Sémillon Franschhoek, Damascene
Lea & Sandeman - £36.50 - case price, can be bought by the bottle
An almost intoxicating nose greets you with flavours of pears and green apples. Once you have consumed the first glass, then you definitely want to move quickly to the second, third, ..... I think this needs to be in the fridge throughout this winter as there are many dishes - chicken and mushroom pie and any chicken dish with a creamy sauce, turkey, partridge, pheasant and pork - that would work superbly with this excellent white. On the palate, ripe pears, ripe apples, good rounded acidity, and great length.
Mid-£30s might seem a tad high for South African whites, but I think these wines punch well above their weight in terms of value. They have a character of their own with a richness and style that is very appealing, but definitely need to be matched with food.
