Spring lamb would be the primary focus for red wines during this seasonal phase. There is a strong tradition of pairing the blended wines from Bordeaux with roast lamb: a combination that has stood the test of time for both culinary and cultural reasons.
When Henry Plantagenet married Eleanor of Acquitaine in 1152, and her dowry included most of south-west France, then the wines from the Bordeaux region were a staple part of the English diet until the French finally removed us after the Battle of Castillon in 1453. By that point these wines had become so established that the trade between Bordeaux and UK remains as strong as ever.
The grapes from the Bordeaux region have evolved over the centuries, but the pairing of lamb and these blends are part of a very long-term tradition. The Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot all work to deliver full-bodied red wine known for their high tannin content, deep fruit flavours, complex structures and ability to age very well.
The marriage of these blends works perfectly with lamb that has a rich, slightly fatty texture, and the tannins and acidity in these wines cut through this richness, cleansing the palate and balancing the dish.
Across the world, these varieties are planted extensively, and blends are created that mirror the classic Bordeaux style. However, often in the New World wine regions, these can be single varietal wines, particularly from the Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot. Below are listed wines from the Loire, Australia, California and Bordeaux that will work to perfection over the coming months as spring lamb begins to feature on our tables.
However, let’s not be entirely focused on Bordeaux Blends. Also, below are a couple of Riojas that I think also work very well with lamb, and as a softer option for many palates, will be a perfect foil.
There is another missive for a number of Pinot Noirs from the Pacific Rim in the pipeline, and again, the more robust style of these wines will work on a slightly different level. I’ll add some of these to the Seasonal Reds page.
As I outlined in last week’s missive, the Seasonal Wine pages are a new element on the new website: www.dappled.info. The link on the price will take you to the merchant’s page, and the Notes option alongside each wine will take you to more detail about each wine.
01 - Moss Wood, Amy's , Margaret River, 2022 - Notes
The focus of Amy’s blends since its inception in 2002, was to create a wine with an elegant palate and refined structure that is ready for early drinking. The nose from this vintage shows dark fruits of redcurrants and blueberries. The structure is firm with fresh acidity and integrated tannins superbly balanced with strong blackberry fruit plus excellent length. Its is made from a blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 7% Malbec, and 7% Petit Verdot. The oak ageing has a very positive impact on the wine that has been designed to be consumed when young and vibrant.
£18.50 - Waitrose
02 - Domaine de la Butte, Bourgueil Le Pied de la Butte, 2020 - Notes
Having covered blends above, this is not a blend: it’s 100% Cabernet Franc from the middle of the Loire. Although this is a relatively young wine, it is drinking well today and will certainly continue to evolve for a further five or more years. Cherries and blackcurrants on the nose, a crisp acidity and tannins work well together with aromatic fruits that would be perfect over a Sunday lunch. Very stylish for the price.
£18.92 - Lay & Wheeler
03 - Joey Tensley, Fundamental Cabernet Sauvignon, California 2021 - Notes
From Tensley’s Fundamental range, a well-defined varietal that is designed to be consumed today. Medium-bodied with good concentration of blackcurrants combined with balanced, but fresh, acidity, and some spicy components. Very, very drinkable with polished and refined tannins working well to enjoy alongside any roast meat.
£23.50 - Berry’s
04 - Clos La Gaffelière, St Emilion, 2016 - Notes
A very well made, mature Claret at an exceptionally good price. The second wine of La Gaffelière, it was under the radar for a number of years, and has not always been ranked highly. However, just to prove the critics wrong, and how they missed this wine is a mystery, this delivers a well crafted glass of classic right-bank wine. 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc. A very damp spring was followed by a very warm and dry during July and August, with a quick couple of storms during September, an India summer emerged, ripening the grapes to perfection. If you want a glass of very good, mature Claret at a sensible price, this ticks those boxes.
£33.00 - Berry’s
05 - Palacios Remondo, La Montesa, Crianza, Rioja, 2021 - Notes
When I first tasted this wine, I had to go back to the Berry’s site to check the price. Fiendishly good value. Ripe, very rich, very drinkable and full of flavour. Enough body and extract to deal with any lamb dish, or any meat dish for that matter. Expressive and full of charm. The 12 months in oak has given it a touch of zest with refined tannins added to the mix.
Located in the most southerly of the Rioja vineyards, Bodegas Palacios Remondo has a 90 hectare plot, with plantings of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano.
You could keep it a bit longer, but why would you?
£19.95 - Berry’s
06 - La Rioja Alta, Viña Ardanza Reserva 2017 - Notes
Cherries and plums on the palate with a firm structure and finely integrated tannins. There is a richness here that sits very comfortably with food. You will pick up the vanilla and cloves from the oak, with hints of caramel and light spices. Although, the suggestion is lamb, this would work to perfection with beef or chicken. Buying this wine year after year is a no-brainer: it just delivers every time and the change of vintage makes a difference, but they seem to be able to work miracles regardless of the weather.
£32.00 - Laithwaites