Summer Lamb
... great value Claret ...
Building on an earlier missive in which I had included the 2025 from Domaine de l’A as a very good value En Primeur purchase and noted that Berrys had a collection of older vintages, I acquired two that are available for sale by the bottle: 2019 and 2022.
Located in the Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux appellation (formerly known as Côtes de Castillon), the region stands out as one of Bordeaux’s rising stars, blending remarkable terroir, a gentle climate, mature vineyards, and impressive value. Nestled just east of Saint-Émilion, it boasts the same prized geological traits as Bordeaux’s elite estates, yet offers them at a much more accessible price.
The limestone and clay soils mirror those of nearby Saint-Émilion, with limestone lending both freshness and depth through its drainage and water-holding abilities, while clay nurtures the Merlot grape to perfection. The landscape’s rolling, sun-drenched slopes capture every ray of sunlight, enhancing ripeness and keeping vines healthy. The slightly warmer climate inland ensures grapes reach full maturity without losing their lively acidity. With top Bordeaux producers investing in the region and a focus on low yields, old vines, and cutting-edge viticulture, Castillon now crafts wines of remarkable concentration, elegance, and longevity.
The result is wines brimming with richness, vibrant freshness, and lingering mineral complexity, all while offering superb ageing potential and remarkable quality for their price.
In 1999, world-renowned consultant Stèphane Derenoncourt and his wife, Christine, began their journey with just 2.5 hectares in Sainte-Colombe, nestled in the Côtes de Castillon. Today, their domaine stretches across 11 hectares, scattered among parcels that bask on a sunlit, south-facing slope of tuffeau limestone. Merlot (70%) and Cabernet Franc (30%) make up the plantings, with an average age of 55 years. Low yields are a hallmark of the property.
The wines were tasted alongside a number of other similarly priced Clarets from the multiples, and they both performed well in terms of value for money. However, 2022 is definitely the one to buy.
The vintage was not straightforward. Winter arrived cool and dry, a pattern that lingered as spring slowly warmed, setting the stage for an early, vibrant budburst and a flourish of blossoms. April’s frosts struck with their usual bite, but luck was on the growers’ side, sparing most of the tender new shoots. June unleashed fierce hailstorms that slashed yields, and as the battered vines recovered, relentless heat and drought took hold. By July, the land was thirstier than it had been in decades.
From July, rain vanished almost entirely, replaced by searing heatwaves that scorched the vineyards. While the sun coaxed rich ripeness from the grapes, the relentless drought posed a daunting challenge. With the mercury soaring to 40 degrees Celsius and no respite in sight, growers leaned on their oldest, most resilient vines to draw water from deep within the earth. Despite these problems, this region succeeded in combining the appellation’s characteristic freshness and mineral structure with exceptional fruit concentration and ripe tannins.
If you are cooking lamb this summer, this would work perfectly. Barbecued lamb reigns as the star of summer, its luscious fat sizzling and melting over open flames, forming a smoky, caramelised crust that locks in every drop of juiciness. When tossed with zesty Mediterranean herbs, garlic, mint and tomatoes, each bite bursts with bold, sun-soaked flavours perfect for those long lunches.
The wine is young and will certainly develop, but it tastes delicious today and could simply be described as a rather classic Claret. Deeply concentrated colour, with lively black and blue fruits on the nose, a touch of herb, and certainly a willing charm emerges. Bold, fleshy, confident with ample richness, body and unquestionable style. New oak sits comfortably amongst the refined tannins, deep fruit, and perfectly balanced acidity. The length is excellent. At this price, not a tricky decision. It will age into the early 2030s, but it’s so good today; why wait? You might decant it an hour before serving to let it open up a tad.
Domaine de l’A 2022 - £27.00 - Berrys - merchant link
