Summer Cassoulet
... need rich reds ...
In places such as Castelnaudary, Carcassonne, and Toulouse, Cassoulet is not regarded as exclusively a winter dish.
However, let’s also consider Daube Provençale, Petits Farcis, Gardiane de Taureau, or Tomates Farcies as other meat-based, robust and full-flavoured dishes for summer dining as alternatives.
Returning to the idea of a cassoulet, a crisp green salad tossed in a lively Dijon mustard vinaigrette is a timeless companion. Its tangy bite slices through the decadent flavours of duck confit, pork and beans. When tomatoes are at their peak, a salad of juicy tomatoes, fragrant basil, shallots and a splash of sherry vinegar brings a burst of summer to the table. For vegetables, smoky-grilled courgettes, peppers, and aubergines, or tender haricots verts dressed with just a hint of oil, add brightness without stealing the spotlight. And do not forget a basket of rustic sourdough or French country bread, perfect for soaking up every last drop of those savoury juices.
The options seem very appealing.
Cassoulet was born in the sun-drenched Languedoc region of south-western France, its name inspired by the humble cassole, the clay pot that cradles it through hours of slow cooking. What began as a rustic peasant meal—white beans mingling with savoury preserved meats like pork, duck confit, and sausage—has grown into a legend.
Some say its origins trace back to the Hundred Years’ War, when the people of Castelnaudary stirred up a robust stew to nourish soldiers under siege. Yet, this tale is more myth than fact, since the white haricot beans that define cassoulet today only arrived from the Americas in the sixteenth century, replacing the broad beans of old.
Currently, the towns of Castelnaudary, Carcassonne, and Toulouse each claim to produce the most authentic version of cassoulet, distinguished by their unique selections of meats. By the nineteenth century, cassoulet had become widely recognised throughout France as a symbol of slow-cooked tradition, regional abundance, and the rich culinary soul of Occitanie.
Of course, you would need a wine from the region to accompany such a supper. Six wines were ordered from Yapp, as the specialist in this region, and three were excellent examples. These wines would also perfectly match beef with a rich green pepper sauce, or any other meat dish from the barbecue this summer.
1 - Saint-Chinian: Château Milhau-Lacugue ‘Cuvée Magali’ 2023
The property has a history stretching back to Roman times, with around 60 hectares under vine across this farming estate. Grenache Noir dominates with around 57%, and the remaining balance consists of Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault. Given the price, it is a great wine with bundles of ripe fruit, and this entry-level ‘Cuvée Magli’ from the 2023 vintage is immensely quaffable, drinking really, really well and will work with any red meat dish that you might be serving. Deep colour, cherries and black fruit on the nose, and a commanding structure of accessible flavours, balanced tannins and acidity with a very good finish. It is a few pounds more than many generic ‘Côtes du Rhône brands’ and is an uplift in quality that more than justifies the extra cost.
£15.75 - Yapp - merchant link
2 - Faugères: Château Estanilles ‘Vallongue’ Rouge 2023
The next two recommendations come from the same estate. The appellation of Faugères sits in the Languedoc region, in the hills of the Hérault department.
This is their ‘entry-level’ red, and this vintage contains 45% Syrah, 35% Grenache, 15% Carignan and 5% Mourvèdre. Delicious from the moment you place your nose in the glass, and will age wonderfully into the early 2030s. No shrinking violet here, but a well-honed brew that has seen a few hours in the gym and has come out fighting. Ripe fruits, perfectly balanced with finely-tuned tannins and almost a smooth, espresso flavour on the finish. At any time of the year, if something hearty is being prepared for a lunch or supper, then this is a delightful wine that is outstanding value.
£18.25 - Yapp - merchant link
3 - Faugères: Château Estanilles ‘Clos du Fou’ Rouge 2021
Apparently, they only made 200 cases of this wine. Buy immediately to avoid disappointment would be my advice. Apologies for rattling on about value, but put this alongside a very good Châteauneuf-du-Pape and it would win hands down. The blend is 95% Syrah and 5% Grenache, and it shows significant aplomb, with a precise focus on delivering rich flavours of blackberries, violets, herby spices, cassis, and exquisite length, texture, and body. It already has five years under its belt, and will continue to evolve for at least another decade. If you enjoy wines from the Southern Rhône, then indulge in a case or two while Yapp still has stock.
£29.95 - Yapp - merchant link
