Spicy Sea Bass
..... a fish for all seasons .....
The versatility of sea bass makes it a favourite among chefs and home cooks alike. It's prized for its mild, slightly sweet taste that appeals to a wide range of palates, combined with the adaptability to various culinary methods, from grilling and baking to pan-searing and steaming: it ticks a lot of boxes.
Most Sea Bass are caught between the end of April and the end of October. In the south west of England and the south west of Ireland, the season is longest; the further north, the shorter the season. A fish for almost all seasons.
Was it Ken Lo, a prominent Chinese restaurateur and chef, who first raised the profile of marrying Sea Bass with spices in his chain of Ken Lo's Memories of China restaurants? Not sure, but that is probably where I first sampled this exquisite combination. Spicy sea bass can be found in different cuisines, not just in Asian dishes but encompass many recipes from Mediterranean cooking.
However, to find a wine that can match the spicy variant of a Sea Bass recipe is somewhat limited. Richness, lively flavours, generously velvety textures, and just a very, very small touch of understated honey need to be displayed to sit comfortably alongside the ginger, red chilis, coriander and other ingredients that might be part of a delicious recipe.
The Marsanne grape when grown in the Northern Rhône often exhibits aromas and flavours of ripe stone fruits, such as apricot and peach, alongside hints of melon and pear. With a little bit of age, nutty characteristics and honeyed nuances can also be detected.
The Rousanne grape, also originating in the Northern Rhône, can also be attributed with stone fruits, citrus, herbal, honeyed and nutty components.
Therefore, when you find a wine containing both these grapes, from a highly respected grower in the Northern Rhône - Stéphane Robert from Domaine du Tunnel - then you have the perfect wine to accompany the spicy, firmly textured, alluring components of Sea Bass.
Domaine du Tunnel is placed just outside the town of Saint-Péray on the right bank of the Rhône. The appellation of Saint-Péray is the most southerly of the northern Rhône, with a slightly cooler climate than its immediate neighbours: Cornas, Crozes-Hermitage and Hermitage. Primarily white wines grown on limestone and granite, ensuring good water-holding capacity and drainage. Around 90% of plantings are Marsanne, with the balance split between Roussanne and Roussette.
Stéphane Robert started with 2.5ha in 1994 at the age of 24 that has expanded to 13ha of Syrah, Marsanne, Rousanne and Viognier across Cornas, Saint-Péray, Saint-Joseph and Condrieu. This small family domaine is run by Stéphane and his wife Sandrine, and with their daughter, Emma, now working for a London merchant: continuity looks set for the next generation. The name of the winery is based on their caller that lies in a 170m long converted railway tunnel which was once used by steam trains at the beginning of the 20th century enabling a link from Valence to Vernoux-en-Vivarais.
Stéphane’s wines are noticeable for their concentration of fruit favours rather than oak: he painstakingly vinifies each parcel separately to ensure that the wine reflects the land it has come from. After 30 years his wines are internationally recognised as being of a very high quality and consistency.
I have been buying wines from Domaine du Tunnel for several years, and they never fail to impress.
1 - Saint-Péray, Cuvée Prestige 2022, Domaine du Tunnel
80% Marsanne and 20% Rousanne. Full-bodied with flavours of pear, melon and pineapple. Structurally rich with subdued hints of honeyed fruits and with very long, velvety textures on the finish. This would work perfectly with Sea Bass as well as having more than enough strength to sit alongside a bright Coronation Chicken.
£41.00 - Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants
2 - Saint-Péray Rousanne 2022, Domaine du Tunnel
More golden in colour than the Cuvée Prestige with a distinctive nose of peaches, almonds and pears. Full-bodied, with excellent concentration and a long, silky finish. A complex, glossy palate that contains grapefruit acidity sitting alongside dried fruits flavours of stone fruits. Others may disagree, but I think this is ready for drinking today rather than sitting in the cellar.
£38.61 - Lay & Wheeler - 6 bottle, duty paid rate. Magnums @ £80.81.
