On the site of an old pub now sits great food, excellent service, a really spacious environment with a superbly crafted wine list. Calling The Prince Arthur a gastro-pub does not really do it justice. Yes, there are acres of space as you enter as you might have expected in a busy boozer, with the old bar directly ahead of you that could be filled with teams handling pints, caressing glasses of wine, sipping cocktails and devouring a few bar snacks. But it is so much more.
As you enter the dining area you cannot miss the iced seafood counter, laden with lobster, langoustine, oysters, and a host of other goodies. It takes up a significant proportion of what would have been the old pub bar and makes a statement about the food that lies ahead.
The Basque-born chef, Adam Iglesias, has weaved his mastery to create a small array of dishes that hits the mark and makes selection a tricky task. In essence you want to try them all. Given the relatively small menu, if your were on a team outing, then you probably could cover a significant amount of the selection. He has been at Alameda in San Sebastián and in London at Brat, Barrafina, and Sessions Arts Club. He definitely knows what he is doing.
However, I was dining with a friend. Our perfectly trained waitress eagerly explained what would work in terms of volume and we settled in for eel, beetroot salad, and bluefin tartare as starters. I’d go back every day just for the tartare. The other two dishes were delicious, but this tuna reached another level. For the main course we shared a lobster risotto with a few sides. We both smiled. It was simply exquisite cooking. Then the cheesecake. Worth a revisit to repeat the exact order.
Some important details. The tables are large and spaced a good distance apart. You could be having a discrete meeting and there is no fear of worrying that the next door table can easily hear your discussions.
The wine list has a dominant Spanish focus, but it admirably covers France and other European countries as well as good selection from the New World. The Garnacha Blanca, Massipa de Scala Dei from Priorat was a delightful find.
The price will vary depending on how you split your meal between the pintxos, small plates, raw fish, caviar, and main courses. Roughly £70 per head for three courses excluding service and drinks.
The Prince Arthur - 11 Pimlico Road, London SW1, 020-3098 6060.
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