With the colder weather still seeming reluctant to show its arm, nevertheless, a few suggestions for a small number of white wines might be helpful for the months ahead.
Six wines were assembled for a panel tasting, and there was genuine disagreement from all those participating when I requested that only four could feature in this missive.
However, after much chat and evaluation, these were generally considered to be the options for winter scoff. That the four selected all come from Yapp, was purely coincidental.
1 - Domaine Saint Gayan 'Argiles' Blanc 2023
£11.95 - Yapp
Marrying a rich mushroom soup, or even a spicy tomato offering, then the fragrant acidity of this wine would be a perfect foil. Excellent with a fish-based quiche and rocket salad needing a light touch of acidity to provide balance. Very much a lunch-time offering. Crisp green apple flavours, superbly made from this domaine in the village of Gigondas. If you enjoy Sauvignon Blanc and the leaner styles of Chablis, then this hits the mark. For the price, exceptional quality.
2 - Saint-Joseph: J-L Chave Sélection 'Circa' Blanc 2022
£26.50 - Yapp
'J-L Chave Sélection' is the négociant label from one of the most respected and iconic producers in the Northern Rhône that has a heritage stretching back over 500 years: apparently Chaves have been making Hermitage since 1481. The critics love this wine - Robinson and Ray - and made from 100% Rousanne it contains notes of honeysuckle, stone fruit flavours of peach and apricots, nutty characteristics, all superbly well balanced with a good finish. Consider chicken and mushroom risotto; traybakes with turnips, carrots, spinach and cale; lightly flavoured chicken curries and stroganoffs; or just straightforward roast chicken for Sunday lunch.
3 - Saint-Péray: Domaine Rémy Nodin 'Coteau de la Beylesse' 2022
£32.50 - Yapp
Think chicken and mushroom pie; chicken breasts in a very creamy, leak-based sauce; chicken chasseur. This is a rich and compelling wine with an abundance of flavour. 100% Marsanne from clay-limestone soils with vines planted in 1985, oak-ageing for 11 months, and slowly ageing to perfection. On reflection, perhaps needs a little more time, but still delicious today. Red apples on the nose combined with citrus notes and stone fruit extraction. Sits comfortably on the palate with good concentration, length and a well-rounded structure. Touch of pears on the finish. Perfect with salmon.
4 - Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Le Vieux Donjon Blanc 2022
£49.00 - Yapp
This domaine in Châteauneuf-du-Pape only makes two wines: a red and a white. Unlike its neighbours, it does not create a stream of different cuvées and creations, but just focuses on doing the job superbly across both of these wines.
The 2022 is showing very, very well. A few of the panel thought it needed a few more years, but I think the vibrancy of this relatively young wine is excellent now, and it will certainly evolve. Definitely in the ‘dinner party’ arena as it is a serious wine that warrants attention. 50:50 blend of Rousanne and Clairette, has been made entirely in stainless steel, with plenty of stone fruit flavours, particularly peach, and gently rounded citrus fruits that have a gentle richness on the palate, with almost a touch of refined honey that is not sweet but lifts the overall freshness to a higher level. It will undoubtably age and continue to integrate for another 5, or possibly more, years, but for me this is drinking so well now that one glass is definitely not enough.
At this price point it is competing today with Premier Cru wines from good growers in Chablis, and single vineyard properties in Pouliiy-Fumé and the surrounding villages. But you are getting so much more with this wine. The level of structure and complexity puts it onto a different plain.
