With the pheasant season well underway, the roasted option accompanied by bread sauce, roasted root vegetables, mushrooms and a creamy game jus needs a fruit-focused Chardonnay with a creamy texture and refreshing acidity to complement the bird’s delicate game flavours.
An array of Chardonnays, all priced in the £30 to £40 range from Premier Cru Chablis and a broad selection of New World regions, were assembled for a panel to assess. There was one very clear winner.
1 - Rustenberg Five Soldiers Chardonnay 2024, Stellenbosch, South Africa.
Perhaps pheasant wasn’t the winemaker’s inspiration, but this 2024 vintage tells its own story. After a full malolactic fermentation and 14 months resting on its lees in French oak (72% new), the wine emerges with a luxuriously creamy texture, with lively acidity that provides structure and lift. Vanilla flavours from the barrels weaves through the bouquet, while vibrant fruit and zesty acidity strike a harmonious chord, making this wine a delightful companion to sumptuous white-meat dishes.
Available from many wine merchants, however, Waitrose seems to have been sharpening their pencils on this wine, and the six bottle price is £25.12, down from £33.50.
£25.12 - Waitrose - merchant link
By chance, I also came across a richer, more full-bodied option, that would also work this autumn with pheasant and particularly forthcoming turkey options, as well as a host of other seasonal options.
2 - Au Bon Climat Los Alamos Chardonnay 2023, Santa Barbara, California, USA.
Currently at a discounted price of £39 compared to £53 when you buy six or more, this is exceptional value. It’s rich and full-bodied, but if guests want to continue with a white wine while being served hearty red meat dishes, this would more than cope. It has a lot of energy, with tropical and citrus notes on the nose and palate, creating a backdrop of complexity and vivaciousness that makes you sit up and take note of what this wine delivers in length and profile. It will also age superbly for at least another 5+ years.
£39 - Majestic - merchant link
