With the partridge season having started this month, many tables will now be serving this delicate dish. Roast partridge became synonymous with autumnal dining during Georgian times. It was light and elegant compared to the heavy roasts of winter and tastes were shifting towards simpler, elegant roasts as the centrepiece of meals. Roast partridge fitted that brief perfectly — small enough to serve individually, delicate in flavour, refined and a contrast to venison or beef.
Therefore, with a profile of a lighter, more delicate, and less fatty dish than than pheasant or duck, its gentle gaminess works best with a wine that has bright fruit and silky tannins: nothing too heavy.
New World Pinot Noirs fits that profile to perfection. With their generous red fruit flavours of cherry, raspberry, and cranberry, alongside a touch of rich spices then these wines complement the mild game flavours: a perfect balance.
A selection of Pinot Noirs from around the Pacific Rim were assembled, and a panel were able to have a look at these wines ranging in price from £13 to £62.
Usually, as you head up the rate-card there is a marked difference in quality as the price rises. No so at this panel tasting. Three of the less expensive wines were collectively rated ahead of the more expensive options and will be excellent to accompany many game dishes this autumn and winter. Also included in this missive is a refreshingly good, everyday wine - also a Pinot Noir - but at an immensely quaffable option of £13.
1 - Kendall-Jackson 'Vintners Reserve' Pinot Noir 2021, California, USA
£18.00 - Majestic - six mix
Kendall-Jackson may not be a familiar name, but it is the 10th largest USA producer, still family owned, and involved with more than 40 wineries spread over North and South America, Europe, Australia and South Africa. Their latest venture is in England, where they are building a winery in Essex. Given that they poached Charlie Holland, ex-CEO and Winemaker from Gusbourne's operation in Kent, to oversee this venture then watch this space as I suspect the wines from this new Essex winery will be very good.
This Pinot is a blend coming from coastal vineyards in California. Red fruit on the nose, and a deliciously smooth palate that has an excellent balance with flavours of vanilla and perfectly integrated, light tannins, and plenty of ripe fruit. Well-made, and not just partridge, but think of roast chicken, veal in a creamy sauce, as well as pheasant crumble in a few weeks time.
2 - Joey Tensley, Fundamental Pinot Noir, Central Coast 2022, California, USA
£23.50 - Berrys
Previous vintages of this wine have been covered in earlier missives, this is just the latest incarnation. It's a really classy glass of wine that you would be happy to drink on any occasion, and fits the partridge requirement very snugly. Plums and cherries on the nose with rich, ripe fruit on the palate, touch of pomegranates, plus hints of spice with a smattering of earthy flavours. If you like bright Pinot Noirs with a good, long and consistent finish, then this ticks all the boxes.
3 - Schug Carneros Pinot Noir 2022, California, USA
£30.00 - Waitrose
This winery has an interesting history. Founded by husband and wife team, Gertrud and Walter Schug, in 1980, they had arrived in California from Germany in 1961. Walter's father had planted Pinot Noir in Germany's Rheingau region in the 1920s, and Walter followed in his footsteps by studying viticulture and enology at Geisenheim University, before completing an internship in California. Convincing his fiancée to move to California, Walter initially worked for Gallo and then Phelps before they established their own winery.
Cherries and strawberries on the nose, the palate is medium-bodied with good length and very varietal focused. Juicy, yet with refinement and an excellent length. Very appealing on the palate with prominent red-berry flavours, plus floral undertones alongside a hint of the 25% new oak barrels where it sits for 10 months. Would sit very comfortably alongside any game this season. It is perfectly ready to drink today and a very good example of a winery delivering something rather special at this price point: subtle, fine-tuned and really pleasing on the palate. It will evolve over the next 5 or more years.
4 - The Ned 'Southern Valleys' Pinot Noir 2020, Marlborough, New Zealand
£13.00 - Majestic
Lively, lots of ripe fruit, very quaffable. This is a relatively simple wine, but well made and slips down without any problems. Perfect with almost anything, including partridge, but would work with a pasta in a rich and creamy tomato sauce. Bangers and mash with densely packed onion gravy.
