In an earlier missive covering the 2022 harvest in Burgundy, there was a promise to start highlighting Pinot Noirs produced in the Pacific Rim.
For the purpose of these missives, the definition of the region for Pacific Rim Pinot Noirs starts east of Vancouver in the Okanagan Valley; heads south through Oregon and California; encompasses Chile and Argentina's Patagonia; dashes across the Pacific to New Zealand's Central Otago, Martinborough and Marlborough; and then north to Australia's Adelaide Hills, Tasmania, Geelong, Macedon Ranges, Yarra Valley, Gippsland and Mornington Peninsula.
There are Pinot Noirs being created in both Japan and China, but not readily available in the UK at this stage.
That's a significant region by any standards, encompassing multiple micro-climates, soil types, different Pinot clones, varying vineyard managements practices, widely different winemaking techniques all combined with a very, very broad array of winemakers using their skills to demonstrate how this region can create superbly crafted wines with delicacy and finesse.
Over the coming months - probably longer - missives will come forth to recommend exploring this broad geographical area, with a focus on a collection of the individual regions.
It would be inaccurate, and very misleading, to compare these Pinots with their cousins from Burgundy. Rather like comparing Bordeaux reds with Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots from California, they are different wines, not competing with each other, but sitting alongside each other as examples of clever, intuitive winemaking delivering superb results.
The Pinot Noir vine. As described in Jancis Robinson’s book on grapes, ‘Finicky Burgundian vine produces wildly variable, relatively delicate, potentially haunting essences of place.’ The bedrock of Red Burgundy, around 40% of the plantings in Champagne, produces delicate and refined reds in Germany and Alsace, and has now expanded into the New World Wine Regions with exceptional results when handled by great winemakers. Regardless of who and where, when they get it right, this varietal shines and shines.
Therefore, as a starting point for the vine-focused appraisal of the Pacific Rim, I thought two wines from the California would get the show on the road.
An important element in these selections is making sure that all of the wines in these Pacific Rim missives are available by the bottle: they can be tried and tested without incurring too high a cost.
I hope you enjoy this journey!
1 - Joey Tensley, Fundamental Pinot Noir, Central Coast, 2021
Rich, fragrant nose with a wealth of red and black berries and perhaps a hint of orange peel. Vibrant fruit on the palate, very drinkable with smoothly fine flavours that draw you in combined with hints of sweet, ripe fruits and silkiness. Medium-bodies, good length and an exceptionally pleasing finish. A really enjoyable glass of wine that demonstrates the fruit characteristics of the Pinot Noir. Elegant.
£23.00 - Berrys
2 - Carpe Diem Pinot Noir, Alexander Valley, 2018
This is created in one of Louis Rogederer’s estates on the West Coast. The Alexander Valley has a warm climate that is cooled by the east-west channels that move cool air from the Pacific along the Petaluma Gap and Russian River Valley in this northeast corner of Sonoma County. Pure strawberry fruit aligned with touches of spices and a light touch of acidity combined with ripe black berries, make it very appealing. The delicacy would work to perfection with chicken caesar salads, baked salmon, lightly grilled prawns, vitello tonnato, and smoked duck breasts.
£36.99 - Waitrose
