At the recent International Wine Challenge Awards not only did Nyetimber’s Blanc de Blancs 2016 win the Global Sparkling Wine prize, but their winemaker was named Sparkling Winemaker of the Year for the second time.
Icing on the cake? Yes, that seems a fair assessment.
To build a prestigious brand within an intensely competitive global market requires talented expertise and significant funding. Owning their own 325 hectares of vineyards across the South East of England enables total control over grape quality, yields, vineyard management, combined with exemplary winemaking expertise. The winery has deployed these assets to build the most prestigious English Sparkling Wine brand. The Dutch family who own this English success story acquired the winery in 2006. Their committed investment in winemaking has been flawlessly allocated as has their investment in marketing.
However, the greatest asset of expertise in this Sussex winery is unquestionably Cherrie Spriggs: their softly spoken, immensely talented, and very charming, Canadian winemaker. Cherie is now internationally recognised as one of the finest global creators of sparkling wines. In 2018 she was awarded the IWC’s Sparkling Winemaker of the Year. The first female to acquire this prize. The second only person to halve won it outside of France. I was sitting next to her at the awards dinner in 2018, when I was working for WineGB, and I do not think I have ever seen a happier lady. Cherie and her husband, Brad Greatrex, who is also a winemaker, both started working for Nyetimber in 2007.
Nyetimber is part of a market that has seen unexpected growth over the last two decades. From a recent industry report, there are now more than 1,100 vineyards across England and Wales, with around 4,800 hectares under vine: plantings have increased by 510% since 2005. The classic Champagne varietals - Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier - account for 68% of the vineyard area, and these are the dominant varieties in the South East of England. 69% of total UK production is sparkling with over 90% of that sector using the méthode champenoise - or traditional method as it is now termed - to create English Sparkling Wine.
Sales growth is still being maintained, albeit in fairly tough trading conditions, equating to approximately 9.1m bottles sold in 2024 with 24 of the larger wineries accounting for 88% of total sales. 9% is exported to a broad selection of markets around the world, but with a strong focus on USA, Japan, and Scandinavia. Wine tourism is also growing considerably, with Hambledon’s MD expecting 55% of revenue to come from their cellar-door and hospitality operations. Research from New Zealand has demonstrated that wine tourism is a strong, and very profitable, option for wineries. Importantly the research also concluded that it also generates significant additional income for local pubs, hotels, and general retail operations in the immediate area.
Inward investment has been a significant factor over the last few years. The purchase of Hampshire’s Hambledon by Port family Symington, in a joint venture with Berrys, will see that brand sold around the world wherever their Ports are distributed. Kendall-Jackson, USA’s second largest wine family behind Gallo, have acquired 65 acres in Essex’s Crouch Valley. Given their global wine ventures, very much focussed on high quality wines, this is very much a ‘watch this space’. Cava producer Freixenet acquired the Sussex winery Bolney a couple of years ago, Pommery Champagne have planted around 120 acres in Hampshire and have recently been given planning permission to build a winery producing 200,000 bottles per year. Finally, Taittinger launched their first Kent sparkling wine, having built their winery, this year under the Domaine Evremond label. These are not the only global players considering an investment in England.
Back to the wine in question: Nyetimber’s Blanc de Blancs 2016. The bad news is that it has all been sold: not surprisingly. However, do not despair. I tasted the 2017 Blanc de Blancs a couple of weeks ago. Is it also exceptional? Indeed it is. Will it win next year’s IWC Sparkling Wine Award? It might. Regardless of any trophy, it is a truly excellent glass of sparkling wine.
Nyetimber Blanc de Blancs Brut 2017
Flavours of toast and pastry, backed with hints of lemons, apricots and a gentle touch of custard - gently aromatic on the nose. Classy on the palate. Great finesse with plenty of depth. Rich, prominent, confident with a long and generously creamy texture on the finish. The dosage is inspired, ensuring the acidity is well balanced and the overall result very, very attractive. Drinking extremely well today, but a few more years - 2027/2028 - would just add an additional layer of complexity. If there is a date to celebrate in a few years, then this would hit the mark to perfection. Available from many merchants.
£47.95 - Lea & Sandeman