On a recent trip to Rioja, I was fortunate to taste a significant amount of superbly crafted wines at an array of different tastings.
However, out of the dozens assessed, one wine hit a note that, for my taste, put it into another category, and there are now a few bottles sitting in my cellar to enjoy from 2030 and beyond.
Tasting it back in England, it seemed even better than it performed in Spain. But in Spain it was fighting for a place alongside exceptional competition.
This blend is created from four different grape varieties: Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo, and Graciano. Tempranillo is the bedrock of Rioja; accompanied here by Garnacho, also known as the Grenache and the Mazuelo also known as the Carignan - both extensively planted in the Southern Rhône; alongside Graciano that is planted across Spain.
Muga harvest late in the season to allow extended ripeness to deliver very high quality grapes from their vineyards in Rioja Alta: the largest zone of the three that make up this region about an hour’s drive south of Bilbao. Overall, a continental climate with some maritime influences. The vineyards that create this wine are from the northwest corner: cooler and wetter with soils of calcareous clay.
Rioja Alta has a striking landscape and with a significant amount of the vineyards using bush vines planted at low density. The viticultural landscape is very different from Bordeaux or other well-known French vineyards. Spain has the largest vineyard plantings in the world, but ranks third in total production significantly behind France and Italy. Vines are not stretched as low density planting is favourable in many regions due to the climate: with a low annual rainfall this reduces competition between vines for soil water.
Bodegas Muga was founded in 1932, and located in Barrio de La Estación in the town of Haro. Their portfolio includes whites, rosés, sparkling and a collection of impeccable reds at varying quality and price points.
Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva 2016
It is a rich, involving wine. Pouring straight from the bottle, the intensity is very apparent as soon as you put your nose into the glass. An array of different aromas hits the senses once the wine is on the palate, and the layers of complexity with a deep, long-lasting structure combine floral, perfumed, textured, and wonderfully balanced flavours that sit and sit. A very classic Rioja.
Infanticide you might feel to indulge in a wine that will last for at least another decade and beyond. But it is so delightful today that resisting the temptation to enjoy is very tricky. Aged in French and American oak barrels for three years, and the wood has combined superbly with the fruit, tannins and acidity. It is an excellent wine. Red meat is the obvious choice here: venison stews, roast beef with plenty of horseradish, steak and kidney puddings. This is a main course wine that would be wasted on a starter, savoury or cheese. Available from many merchants but two links below.
£63.00 - Waitrose
£65.00 - Laithwaites
