Needs Time: Bordeaux 2021
… but not too much …
2021 was not the easiest harvest to manage in Bordeaux. Winter was mild and wetter than average, resulting in an early budbreak, and with frost in early April, this hit many vineyards. A poor fruit-set; low temperatures in May slowed down the overall harvest; heavy rainstorms in late June and early July caused rot issues requiring very careful vineyard management. However, August and early September saw warm, dry weather, but with COVID restrictions in play during the harvest this created its own, unique problems. Overall the Bordelais had a tricky year.
However, the Médoc seems to have managed it better than other regions. It is a classic year with a careful balance between fruit, tannins and acidity. Old-fashioned might sum it up rather well with a collection of wines that will be ready for drinking in the not to distant future.
There was a tasting last week of around 80 wines from this vintage at Vintners, and the range covered the entire region. Three reds hit a note, and if you would like some classic Claret in your cellar, and do not want to wait for an eternity before it is ready for drinking, then these are very good Cabernet Sauvignon based wines at a good price. The dry white at the bottom of the page is utterly delicious, but not the least expensive of wines I have recommended recently.
They will be available from many merchants, but I’m coming round to thinking that Justerinis are a very reliable source of Claret from their own ‘Portfolio’ stock. All prices are Duty Paid in VAT.
1 - Château Branaire-Ducru 2021, Saint-Julien
Surprisingly intense on the nose with flavours of plums and dark berries. Very appealing given it still needs a few years before the cork should be pulled. Quite rich and perfumed on the palate. Medium to full bodied. Fleshy and fresh with plenty of acidity, tannins and fruit. A long term item. 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 6.5% Cabernet Franc, and 5.5% Petit Verdot. Drink 2030 to 2040.
£243.96 - 6 x 75cl (£40.66)- Lay & Wheeler - link
2 - Château Léoville Barton 2021, Saint-Julien
This property continues to deliver year after year, at a very competitive price. Graphite and blackcurrant on the nose, with plenty of intensity that needs a bit of time to show its true colours. Elegant and full of finesse, it exudes charm with all the elements in perfect harmony. Drink 2030 onwards until the end of that decade and perhaps beyond. Classic Saint-Julien that will sit perfectly alongside the roast lamb when it comes of age. 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc.
£619.07 - 12 x 75cl (£51.59) - J&B - link
£424.73 - 3 x magnum (£141.58) - J&B - link
3 - Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 2021, Pauillac
Considered by a few critics to be one of the wines of the vintage. Longevity is the word that springs to mind here. The blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot has created a classic Pauillac that has concentration and finesse with a solid backbone of refinement and length. Rich energy and a good definition.Think 2035 onwards and heading towards late 2040s.
£373.54 - 6 x 75cl (£62.26) - J&B - link
4 - Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 2021, Pessac-Léognan
Probably the star of the show. I do not often push White Bordeaux as I generally find it not particularly good value for money alongside White Burgundy. However, this is an exception. There is layer after layer of complexities and nuances here that make this one of the great finds of this year. I agree, £90 on a bottle of white is toppy, but then this is seriously good quality. Tangy, classy, satisfying, long, vibrant, fleshy and delicious. 35% new oak has encased this blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Sémillon for 18 months. If you want an item that is ready for drinking then this is a flawless execution, but allow just a couple of years and you will be deeply impressed. This would work with Dover Sole Meunier, richly and complex chicken dishes, as well as veal in creamy, truffle-laden extravaganzas.
£541.13 - 6 x 75cl (£90.19) - J&B - link