Need Time: Two Italians
... surprising finds at Waitrose ...
There are two Italian wines from Waitrose that should be bought for your cellar: a Barolo and a Brunello di Montalcino.
1 - Pio Cesare Barolo 2021
Slow cooking and truffles always spring to mind with a glass of Barolo in my hand. On an autumn or winter morning, with low clouds and mist nestling in the valleys around the hill towns, then the prospect of a hearty lunch is a very appealing option. The region is about 40 miles south of Turin, sitting in the middle of the broader Piedmont appellation, and growing only the Nebbiolo grape. Long associated with the House of Savoy - 1003 to 1946 - where the wines from this region were known as ‘the wine of kings, the king of wines’. From 1990 to 2004, the area under vine increased by 47% to around 2,000 hectares, mainly from US demand, with some of the top-tier plots now selling for northwards of €3m per hectare.
The House of Pio Cesare started in 1881, and they own approximate 80 hectares located across the Piedmont region. The grapes for their Barolo come from 9 different vineyards within the Barolo appellation, vinified in stainless steel, and then aged in large barrels of French and Eastern European oak for 24 months, before being placed in smaller French oak barriques ahead of the final bottling.
2021 saw an especially cold and relatively dry winter was then followed by a warm spring and a blisteringly hot summer that saw many producers struggle with drought conditions and a significant amount of canopy management was needed to protect the grapes. Yields were low but the quality is generally high.
This is a very classic Barolo with a modern twist. Historically, these wines needed a considerable amount of time to show their true colours, and although this is with doubt a classic Barolo, there is a forward amount of fruit combined with the tannins and acidity that is very approachable today, but the underlying factor is longevity. Superbly balanced and a very high quality wine that will accompany many rich winter dishes from 2030 into the early 2040s. Gracefully energetic but with refinement. A few years would just allow the tannins to integrate a smidgeon more: worth the wait.
£61.50 - Waitrose - link
2 - Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino 2017
The appellation of Brunello di Montalcino sits in southern Tuscany, where the vineyards flow amongst the gently rolling hills. The area under vine has grown from around 65 hectares in the 1960s to over 2,100 today. This is the pinnacle for the Sangiovese grape with vineyard elevations ranging from 150 to 500 meters. As the demand for these wines has grown, so has the pricing. However, given the rising cost of most fine wines around the world, for a wine that is 9 years old, has been superbly crafted, this is very good value.
Castiglion del Bosco is an interesting property. Records show that estate was established around 1100 AD with the construction of a castle (Castiglion) within a wooded area (bosco) in the Val d’Orcia. The significant change occurred in 2003 when it was acquired by Massimo and Chiara Ferragamo. In 2022 it was sold to an undisclosed international family office for an estimated €400m. Both del Bosco and Pio Cesare are brands within the Maison Marques & Domaines (MMD) portfolio - MMD is owned by Champagne Louis Roederer.
2017 was a tricky vintage with exceptionally poor conditions. However, as in every difficult vintage certain properties deliver outstanding results. This is a perfect example that a generalisation cannot determine the dedicated approach of focused and accomplished winemakers.
There is an engaging richness here that sits very comfortably on the palate once the first taste has been experienced. Is this the most enticing, desirable and really enjoyable Brunello that I have tasted in many years? Unquestionably, yes. Will it feature at dinner parties over the coming years? Yes. Generosity in spades. Velvety textures sit perched to invade your senses as this evocative wine works its flawless magic. This will evolve a touch over the next 4-6 years, but it is very, very drinkable today. It is a class act.
£61.50 - Waitrose - link
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