If you are heading to Provence on the A7 this summer, then may I suggest an overnight stop in the town of Tournon as a suitable place to sleep well, eat well, and buy a few exceptional wines from the Northern Rhône.
The town sits across the Rhône river from Tain l’Hermitage. It’s about 90 minutes south of Lyon, 2 hours north from Avignon and 2 hours 30 from Aix. Having visited it twice - last September and again last month - then there are very good reasons to make a stop.
1 - Sleeping - Hotel de la Villeon
I came across this hotel last September by chance. I used it for a group trip this year in June. It's somewhat different. It's an old house, that has been converted into 16 rooms and 4 suites. The rooms vary in size, but are very comfortable and retain the feeling that you are in a town-house with creaky wooden floors, old fashioned high ceilings, an elaborate central staircase, rooms with tall windows and comfortable beds. Ask for room #3. The staff are young, professional and charming. There is a courtyard on the first floor where you eat breakfast, or enjoy a simple platter of cheese or cold meats with a bottle of wine in the evening. The wine list is not huge but has a very good selection. There is a terraced garden built into the hill behind the hotel that has a largish pool. This terrace is as high as the town's church steeple, and has views over the hill of Hermitage - see below. Understated elegance. Site.
2 - Serious Scoff - Le Cerisier
With only a "Good Cooking" rating from the Michelin, it is a husband and wife team - Lucie & Guillaume Berruet - running a minimalistic restaurant. A seven-minute walk from the hotel. It certainly deserves a "Bib Gourmand" rating, perhaps even a star, but it does not have the interior grandeur to make that transition: very low profile layout with clean lines and simple furniture. Modern French cuisine.
The staff are very welcoming, the presentation of their dishes is an art form, and the exquisite food is quite exceptional. I first dined here last September as I was heading back north, and then again with a very jolly dozen last month. Both occasions were flawless, albeit the larger group did take some time to serve, but we were not in a rush!
The wine list for a small restaurant is broad. I think north of 600 options. Try the whites from Saint-Péray as a starting point. Usually a blend of the Rousanne and Marsanne grapes. They will have a few from Domaine du Tunnel and that will certainly hit the brief. For the reds, then Crozes-Hermitage would be the best option, perhaps from Domaine Yann Chave. There is no shortage of options if you wish to head up the rate-card. Michelin. Restaurant Site.
3 - Local Bistro for lunch - Vineum
This is Jaboulet's brasserie in the middle of Tain l'Hermitage, around a 12 minute walk from the hotel. The front is a wine shop and behind a good but simple restaurant creating classic dishes, and you have the opportunity to taste an array of Jaboulet's wines by the glass. If you like them, you can buy directly, or bring the car around to the front door and park in the square to collect a case or two.
4 - Cellar Tour & Tasting - Delas
This producer may be under the radar alongside Guigal, Chapoutier and Jaboulet, but it is the fourth largest producer in the Northern Rhône and has an array of stupendous wines. Acquired by Louis Roederer a few years back, the investment in the new winery is a serious indication of where this House is going. From their entry-level Crozes-Hermitage (late £20s in UK) to single vineyard Hermitage (around £200-£300 in UK), everything that I have tasted on two visits has been exceptional. Most of the wines on sale at their cellar door need some time, so this is a spot to visit on your return leg. The wines are not readily available in the UK, although you will find a smattering at Berry's and Lay & Wheeler. My advice: visit, decide your price point, taste the optioins available, buy 2 cases and put in the cellar for 5+ years. You can just pop in, but you might like to view the winery. Needs an appointment - email to book visit.
5 - Wine Shop - Compagnie de l’hermitage
On the other side of the square from Jaboulet’s Vineum sits a shop with an abundance of regional wines. Site.