With insatiably accelerating prices in Burgundy, finding a wine that is drinking well today, with the potential to improve over the next four to five years, is a real conundrum. Particularly if you want to spend under £25!
Thumbing through the Waitrose list, I spotted one from the charming and engaging Jean-Jacques Girard. Tasting recent vintages in his cellar earlier this year, the quality of wine created by him, ably assisted by his son, was of a very high calibre. Finding a wine of this quality and priced at £24.99 is impressive. Not sure how much Waitrose has in stock, but if you enjoy a delicate and very well made wine, then I'd click on the link below sharpish.
2020 Vintage
Superb weather throughout the growing season has led to wines that are very well balanced. This is a serious vintage that will see whites ready for almost immediate drinking, and reds needing some time. The harvest started early, and has created a 'classic' vintage in the eyes of many growers, even with the warm summer and lack of rainfall. Ample ripeness combined with an acidic structure, has created appealing wines with a clean fruit profile.
Burgundy has seen a number of low volume vintages and this has had an impact on pricing. Therefore, acquiring a wine that is good value with the potential to age and, in relative terms, inexpensive alongside the overall market trend is a rarity.
The Girard Family
Around five centuries ago Jean Girard started cultivating vines in the village of Savigny-Lès-Beaune. With seven generations carrying on this tradition, Jean-Jacques and his son Vincent, skilfully blend old techniques and modern knowledge to create wines that have depth and a well defined character. Their wines are ready for drinking relatively early, but have the structure and concentration to age very well. The family owns around 15 hectares, producing around 100,000 bottles a year. Very much a family business.
Appellation of Pernand-Vergelesses
Sitting within the broader Côte de Beaune district of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, it is nestled between the appellations of Corton-Charlemagne and Savigny-les-Beaune. This is often an overlooked enclave that produces very fine white wines. Seventeen of the 72 ha entitled to the grand cru appellation Corton-Charlemagne lie within Pernand-Vergelesses. It does not feature on many wine lists, perhaps because it is a tad tricky to pronounce with a sommelier hovering over your selection! Who knows.
Pernand-Vergelesses, Les Belles Filles 2019, Domaine Jean-Jacques Girard
Waitrose - £24.99
Initially tight on the nose when first tasted, but opens to reveal tones of brioche, hints of oak , and light citrus fruit flavours of lemons with a touch of peach. Elegant on the palate with a perfect balance of fruit, acidity and length, reflecting the 2020 vintage. This is a well refined wine that is drinking well today but will certainly acquire complexity over the coming 4 or 5 years. Depth and length are found here but with a deft subtlety.
If you buy this wine and like the style of this producer, then Montrachet have a broad selection of this family's wines available. The reds are also very, very well made.
