Rarely do you have the opportunity to taste wine that comes from the same year that Abraham Lincoln was elected as president: 1860.
Alongside the 1860 was the 1870 and 1888.
Last month I had the opportunity to taste these three extraordinary Tawny Ports from Van Zellers & Co, a family company established in 1620.
Were they the oldest wines I had ever tasted? Unquestionably.
Were they exquisite, haunting, almost intimidating? Yes, on all counts.
Were they utterly delicious, fascinating, extraordinary and immensely memorable? Yes, and the taste of all three will probably be retained by my memory for as long as I live.
I could rattle on about their nuances and use superlative after superlative about their individual qualities. But that would simply not do these wines justice. They were simply outstanding on all counts and way beyond anything that I have ever tasted before, and will probably ever taste again.
However, do not take my word for it. Hugh Johnson was also a member of the very small team tasting these wines and he noted:
1888: Alarming! Leather, celery, caramel…then faintly fizz on tongue. Nose develops fresh and flowery! Very long.
1870: Heady at first, sharper and finer than the’88. Less sting. Dances in shining bronze robes. In Falstaff’s words, ‘searching’.
1860: Heavier, more caramel nose, less complex, sharper less perfect balance. Goes down almost kicking.
Jancis Robinson rated them with 19.5/20, 19/20 and 20/20 in ascending age order.
They are for sale. The price is high, but that is hardly surprising. Van Zeller & Co has made 75 three-bottle sets.
Farr Vintners are selling the three-bottle sets for approximately £15,200, Duty Paid. This could be considered as an En Primeur price, as they are expected to sell for just over £20,000 when they become available through retail outlets later this year.
Below is the information pack regarding these wines. If you need any additional information, then please drop me a note, and I’ll do an email introduction.
I can only feel rather humbled to have had the opportunity to taste these wines.
