Dinner Party Italian
... this time from Sicily ...
There is no shortage of winter vegetables available to create a plethora of wondrous dishes that warm the heart and soul on these damp, grey days. From this array, could the mushroom be the single most important element in these dishes: the king of winter?
Mushrooms bring a friendly, comforting and cosy warmth to these seasonal dishes. They add depth and umami to hearty winter staples like soups, pies, stews, braises, risottos, and gravies. Chefs value mushrooms for their depth, versatile textures, and culinary flexibility, adding body to many staples, and often used as a meat substitute in vegetarian dishes. Low in fat, high in umami and protein, plus rich in B vitamins, selenium, potassium, copper, fibre and antioxidants, thereby complementing nutrient-dense winter meals.
They have been part of our diet for many centuries. The earliest known written records of mushrooms as food come from ancient Greece. Theophrastus, around 300 BCE, described edible mushrooms in his major ancient Greek botanical work, Historia Plantarum. Mentioned by Pliny the Elder - 1st century CE - and in Chinese texts attributed to traditions dating from the Han era - roughly 2nd century BCE to 1st century CE.
Therefore, mushrooms could be described as the unsung heroes of the kitchen. With mushrooms in mind, then Italian wines would seem the logical partnership: you need a wine with depth, clarity and strength to work with the array of dishes that can be created with readily available fungi.
Not many people have tasted the Nerello Mascalese grape. It is an indigenous variety from Sicily primarily planted around Mount Etna. Fair to call it ‘under-the-radar’, and unless you have closely followed the wines from this island, then it will have never appeared as an option.
Sicily has grown a significant international following over the last few decades, establishing the island as a significant player in the global wine market. Diverse terroir, volcanic soils, varied climates, and importantly increased investment in modern winemaking practices, combined with a resurgence of traditional techniques, has enhanced grape quality and refined production.
Calderara Sottana is a notable wine-producing area located in the Etna DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) region on the northeastern slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily. It is becoming known for offering unique, high-quality wines that reflect the extraordinary characteristics of the volcanic soils that sit on Mount Etna.
Production from the winery Tenuta delle Terre Nere started in 2002. This Etna Rosso - Calderara Sottana - is produced from vines that are between 60 and 100 years old, planted between 600 and 650 metres above sea level, and positioned on the north side of Mount Etna, and they make make around 10,000 bottles, or 800-850 cases, of this wine. Small production.
As you head south in Italy, you may feel that the wines would become richer and heavier. Not so here. These are refined and very elegant. Light in colour, with noses that need to sit in the glass to open up their rich texture. If you enjoy top flight Red Burgundies from the warmer vintages, then these would tick that box to perfection. There is elegance here but with a slightly rounder profile, a touch more richness, softer and much more approachable at this age.
All three vintages of this wine - 2021, 2022, and 2023 - have a very strong house style. Grippy tannins sit alongside wild cherries, with nuances of oak, strawberries, smokey earth, dark cherries, a touch of heat pervades the corners, blackcurrants are always present. Delicacy and closely observed and manicured refinement. Nothing has been left to chance: the winemaker has closely nurtured these exquisite creations.
The three vintages are all different. But then the same. They will drink in their aged order. If they are of interest, then buy 1 bottle of the 2022 as a sample. It is a tad more generous.
A recommendation: buy a mixed case of 12 bottles - 4 of each vintage - and plan a lunch, or perhaps two, where you might considering serving a rich chicken, mushroom and pancetta risotto with a crisp green salad. Drink these alongside each other in 2028 to 2030, and savour that Saturday afternoon. It will be remembered by your guests as you will have spoilt them with three exceptional wines. Wines that they will not have tasted before, and will talk about for a long time to come.
£52-£53 - Calderara Sottana - Justerinis - merchant link
Cheese - Gugu Blu - A new find
Loitering around Borough Market last weekend, I came across this delicious blue cheese. Intense flavours in a very creamy texture. More saline that Stilton but a much softer structure on the palate. The ‘crust’ is made from Zibibbo ( a Sicilian Dessert Wine) with figs and walnuts: a perfect foil. Goes well with the Etna Rosso above.
Drunk Cheese - link - www.drunkcheese.co.uk
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