Chilled Red
... an excellent Loire wine ...
Cabernet Franc has always been a perfect summer wine when slightly chilled, at 12–16°C. When the sun is shining, the coolness of this variety can accentuate its raspberry, cherry, redcurrant, and blackberry flavours, making them vivid and precise. It subtly reduces the perception of alcohol and the warmth it generates, creating an aura of softness, making the wine feel lighter and better balanced.
With its typical moderate alcohol, lively acidity and ripe fruits, the resulting wine takes on the mantle of an uplifted and refreshing accompaniment to poached salmon, aubergine parmigiana, chicken Caesar salads, or a tomato and burrata salad with lashings of extra virgin olive oil.
Cabernet Franc thrives in the Loire Valley because its cool, temperate climate suits the grape’s relatively early ripening, and moderate rainfall provides sufficient water. At the same time, well-drained soils prevent waterlogging - well, most summers but perhaps not in 2026. The gradual ripening of this northerly location allows these grapes to develop aromas of red fruit, violets, herbs, and pepper while retaining its naturally high acidity. As a result, Loire Cabernet Franc typically produces elegant, fresh, medium-bodied wines with vibrant fruit and distinctive earthy or herbal character.
A collection of Loire reds was acquired from Lea & Sandeman, a small panel assembled over dinner, and, with absolute clarity, a red from the appellation of Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil was chosen as the clear favourite.
Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil ‘La Mime’ 2022, Domaine Yannick Amirault
Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil is an excellent location for Cabernet Franc because its cool, temperate climate suits the grape’s early-to-medium ripening. The area benefits from sandy, gravelly and clay-rich soils alongside the Loire River, which moderates temperatures and reduces extremes, helping the grapes retain their natural acidity while developing ripe black- and red-fruit flavours.
Around one-third of this domaine’s 20 hectares are within the Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil appellation. Focusing their attention on an organic approach over the last few decades, the estate was pioneering in this region for taking this route. Very much a father and son operation, they consistently produce high quality wines. ‘La Mine’ vineyard consists of a plot of clay gravel containing 45 year-old vines, providing an intensity from this climatically excellent vintage.
Punchy, almost earthy on the nose, it takes a few moments to wake up and deliver a richly leathery aroma, with smokey tones alongside velvety dark berries. The palate is finely balanced with tannins, darkly layered fruits, and delicate acidity all competing for your attention. The slightly chilled arena sets it all off with good length and a generous structure and concentration. Will certainly keep into the early 2030s.
£22.95 - Lea & Sandeman - merchant link
