With the season in full flow, an introduction to a Champagne House - Larmandier-Bernier - that I have been following for a few years seemed appropriate.
These two families - Larmandier and Bernier - have owned vineyards in the Côte des Blancs since The French Revolution. The joining of the two names took place in 1971 when Philippe Larmandier married Elisabeth Bernier, an owner of vineyards in Vertus.
I started buying these wines around 6 years ago, and have been following the house ever since as I find the linear, concentrated style made from 100% Chardonnay, to contain a depth and richness that is immensely appealing. There is also a rosé in the portfolio and the release of a Blanc de Noirs from the 2015 vintage - 100% Pinot Noir - was a reflection of the vintage.
Alongside Pierre are his wife Sophie, and their two sons Arthur and George: it is very much a family run and owned estate that spans eight generations. The grapes only come from vineyards that the family own to ensure absolute control of quality. Craftsmanship in abundance.
Focused on biodynamic viticulture and natural vinification, the house makes around 10,000 cases every year, of which 45% is exported.
The three wines that we tasted are their 'entry-level' wines and if you like the style, then you can quickly head up the rate-card.
1 - Larmandier-Bernier 'Latitude' Extra Brut NV
£49.95 - Lea & Sandeman
An intriguing wine. This cuvée contains 40% of wines coming from the estate’s perpetual reserve started in 2004, and this establishes a very distinct 'house' style as well as demonstrating the art of blending to create a consistently well-made, non-vintage Champagne. Fermentation takes place in wooden casks and sits on the lees until the July following the harvest. Chalk, pears and lemon on the nose with a touch of brioche. Hints of grapefruit on the palate combined with light floral acacia tones and a long finish. Tightly packed bubbles provide a creamy texture with additional nuances of ripe pears and apples. Attention to detail: each bottle is disgorged by hand 9 months before being released into the market.
2 - Larmandier-Bernier 'Longitude' 1er Cru Extra Brut NV
£56.95 - Lea & Sandeman
A touch fuller, a touch richer. Again, 40% from the ongoing reserve. Chardonnay from villages sharing roughly the same longitude: almost 50% Vertus, then mostly Avize and Cramant for balance, and a little Oger - all form a line close to the 4th meridian. Winemaking follows the route outlined above. Stone fruits are more evident on the palate than with the 'Latitude', and it brings flavours of fresh pastry, oranges, nutty caramel, with a vibrance and harmony that sits and sits.
3 - Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs Non Dosé 1er Cru 2017
£76.95 - Lea & Sandeman
Chardonnay was the star of the show in 2017. Although still young, it is already very appealing, but will evolve and develop into the early 30s. The nose unwinds in the glass with flavours of citrus fruits, a smidgeon of honey, and oyster shell. The finest of bubbles disperse on the palate releasing a racy style that has considerable depth and character with a refined backbone of structure and longevity. It has classy refinement that will definitely benefit from a few more years in your cellar. However, the temptation to open the next bottle is difficult to resist.
A health warning is needed here: if you embrace this style, then it becomes fairly pricey as you move into the Grand Crus options, but the reward is significant and worth the funds required.
