Castillon
... a delicious 2022 ...
In 1453, the French at last drove the English from south-west France at the Battle of Castillon, bringing the long and bitter Hundred Years’ War to a close. England had first gained this prized region when Henry Plantagenet wed Eleanor of Aquitaine in 1152, claiming it as part of her dowry.
It is slightly misleading to state that England owned Aquitaine, as technically Eleanor owned Aquitaine as a duchy, and through her marriage Henry acquired the right to rule it. When Henry became king of England in 1154, the English monarch therefore ruled Aquitaine, but Aquitaine remained legally a separate duchy with its own institutions.
This union gave rise to what historians call the Angevin Empire, a patchwork of lands ruled by the English king that stretched from the green fields of England deep into the heart of France. But let us set these tangled affairs aside for now; I promise to revisit them in a future missive.
In the past ten years, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux has emerged as a hidden gem for those seeking exceptional Bordeaux without the hefty price tag. After sharing my thoughts on Domaine de l’A on 3rd July, I felt compelled to delve deeper into the treasures this appellation has to offer.
Nestled just east of Saint-Émilion, this region boasts vineyard prices a fraction of its famous neighbour, yet shares the same rich soils and rolling terrain. Here, the Libournais plateau is sculpted by rivers and streams into limestone and clay, but Castillon stands apart with its wilder, more dramatic hills and valleys.
Merlot reigns supreme here, lending Castillon wines a vibrancy and freshness that set them apart from their western cousins. While some bottles can lean toward rusticity, the five tasted defied that assessment with their polished character.
The panel tasting consisted of two vintages of Château Montlandrie, 2018 and 2012, and three vintages of Domaine de l’Aurage, 2012, 2022, and 2023. It would be fair to say that we all agreed that we’d be happy to serve any of these wines at home for lunch or dinner.
However, there was an outright winner, by a considerable margin: l’Aurage 2022.
Domaine de l’Aurage 2022
The nose gives it away. Plump, rich black plums, boysenberries, and blackberries make for an enticing start to savouring this opulently crafted wine. The palate touches on the theatrical, with a deep concentration of finely crafted black and red fruits, wild dark berries, toasted new oak, and chocolate, with round, stylised tannins that create a harmonious crescendo of complex flavours and a divine structure that just wants to be consumed energetically. It will age superbly, but drinking it today is an absolute delight. 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. A flawless example of why this region deserves attention: an age-worthy wine at a comparatively accessible price.
£37.50 bottles or £78.50 magnums - Corney & Barrow - merchant link
Why are the shallots the main image? There is a dish - Entrecôte à la Bordelaise - that comprises a red wine and shallot sauce - in essence a reduction. This dish is all about the deep, velvety red wine and shallot sauce that crowns the steak. Traditionally, it is served with crisp pommes frites, though golden pommes sautées, creamy gratin dauphinois, or silky mashed potatoes are just as tempting. For a burst of freshness, green beans or a lightly dressed salad cut through the sauce’s richness. Of course, a perfect match with a glass or three of Castillon.
