It had been a decade since the last trip to the Luberon Hills, a national park to the east of Avignon. Now there is a very good reason to return on a regular basis: Capelongue.
Bonnieux had always been my favourite location, sitting amongst a collection of other hilltop villages located in the western part of this national park, each with its own identity and engaging charm. There was always an array of reasons to visit these close settlements: the Tuesday market at Gordes; sitting in the square at Goult watching the world gently pass by whilst sipping a Ricard; walking to the end of Menerbes past large, opulent houses behind tall and imposing walls; strolling in the tight and hilly streets of La Coste and finding a Christian Lacroix clothing exhibition as well as a village hosting the work of many young and aspiring artists; pottering around the square at Rousillon searching out local artefacts or visiting the Écomusée De L'ocre with its abundance of drawing and painting materials; climbing the elevated cobbled streets in Oppède-le-vieux gasping for breath as you rise to the summit.
Peter Mayle’s book, ‘A Year In Provence’, was focused on this small region, and the charm of this area was a delight to revisit. Why had we not been back before was the question that kept cropping up. A week can easily pass trundling across the vibrantly pretty landscape with its acres of rolling vines, forests and wheat with Charolais cattle dotted at suitable points creating an almost Impressionist backdrop.
This exceptional hotel, Capelongue, did not exist when our last visit had taken us to Bonnieux. Open for three years, there is no question that one would eagerly return tomorrow to stay here again. It is an outstandingly well orchestrated hotel in an immensely relaxed and friendly environment.
The rooms are spacious, well appointed, with wonderfully comfortable beds. 15 rooms in total. Request room #212.
The gardens have nooks and crannies to hide away from the afternoon sun, the pool is very large for a hotel of this size, there is plenty of space to find one’s own sanctuary and open that book that has been sitting in the pile waiting for such a moment.
There are two restaurants: one a brasserie, one with a Michelin Star. The brasserie has a small and relatively simple menu and the pizzas are from another planet: wafer, wafer thin - microns rather than millimeters - with a collection of toppings that want you ordering another and then another.
La Bastide has the Star. This is an exquisite find. The chef, Noël Bérard, is a god. The two seven-course options worked to perfection with three dishes really singing from the page: red mullet in a tartlet, minted zucchini, and a rich jus; roasted and lemony eel from Étang de Thau; and grilled rack of lamb from Sisteron, honey, carrot and bottarga. Opportunities to reminisce about the flavours, texture, and presentation of the dishes abounded for days.
Wines list. Small and locally focused for the brasserie and a broader, but not a silly epic, for La Bastide. Focus on the Rhône would be my advice as we enjoyed two of Chapoutier’s wines. The mark-up was not silly.
Speaking to the restaurant director, Michaël Borget, we discussed their plans for the future. Construction is moving ahead on the other side of the lane to add an additional 30 bedrooms, with a focus on celebrating important anniversaries and weddings, plus a separate kitchen, as well as adding a spa, gym, etc. I do not think these additions will in any way distract from the present offering.
The team running the operation are young, polished and engaging. The hotel manager is very much hands-on and was doubling up as hall porter on our last morning, whisking our cases to the car.
Will it receive another visit in the not too distant future? Without a shadow of doubt.
