On a sharp, bright winter's morning, the stone work in the centre of Bath makes it a perfect environment for a long, meandering walk around this old city. The Romans constructed their baths around 70AD, the Georgians and Victorians certainly enjoyed this place, when Jane Austen arriving in 1801 it was the ninth largest urban setting in England with a population of 35,000. Visitors from all over Europe gathered for "The Season" - May to mid-September - and it saw many balls, banquets, and concerts during this busy stint.
Three nights at the beginning of December was a perfect time to potter here, with the Christmas Market in full swing, the whole centre covered in decorations, a Gwen John exhibition at The Holbourne Museum, and the chance to explore a city that we had not visited for more than a decade. With the architecture bathed in soft, golden light, it delivered a very enjoyable few days.
Looking for a light, snacky lunch; a great glass of wine; a well-run restaurant serving excellent food; and somewhere very comfortable to sleep; we found the following:
1 - Snack - The Fine Cheese Company
Not only does this shop have a broad selection of delicious cheeses, but their next door cafe also serves an exceptional croque monsieur. As an early pit-stop opportunity goes, amongst a frenzied morning of retail therapy and cultural captures, this hits the mark when washed down with a large glass of Corbières from the Southern French wine region of Languedoc.
Wiltshire boiled ham, Gruyère and Dijon mustard with an exquisite béchamel sauce, plus a few mixed leaves drenched in a light dressing that sits perfectly alongside this toasted wonder. There are a host of other items - soups, charcuterie, lasagne, tartlettes, etc. - that all looked delicious and pipping hot on this cold December morning.
The shop also has a monthly cheese subscription that I suspect probably delivers a more interesting collection that your local supermarket. Might be worth considering.
29-31 Walcot St, Bath BA1 5BN - link
2 - Drink - Beckford Bottle Shop
Giles Coren in The Times had flagged both this wine shop/bar and the restaurant below, The Beckford Canteen. They are only around 100 yards apart.
As wine shops go, this is a treasure trove of delights. The bonus point is that you can enjoy bottles on the premises by paying a minimal corkage charge of £15, plus they also serve a great selection of snacks, small plates, charcuterie and cheese boards, as well as a healthy collection of puddings. Also available is around 30 wines by the glass. No shortage of options, and they also have a bistro alongside should you want something more substantial. As a place for a drink before dinner, then it works very, very well. Large sofas, small discrete tables, good service.
5-8 Saville Row, Bath BA1 2QP - link
3 - Eat - Beckford Canteen
Part of the same group that contains The Beckford Arms, Lord Poulett Arms and The Talbot Inn. Therefore, this is a very professionally run operation who know exactly what they are doing and do it extremely well.
Modern British cooking with a relatively small menu from local producers, priced as you would expect at top-notch, but very informal, restaurant in the middle of this delightful city. Lots of charm oozing from the team. A relatively short wine list covering Croatia, France, Greece, Italy, New Zealand and Spain: very good but not exceptional. Come here for the food having had an exciting glass of wine further up the hill at the Beckford Bottle Shop.
11 Bartlett St, Bath BA1 2QZ - link
4 - Sleep - No 15
36 bedrooms straddling 3 listed terraced houses in the superbly appointed Pulteney Street. A stroll of around 200 years from Pulteney Bridge: the gateway into the centre of Bath. A quiet residential area with a few other hotels peppered amongst these Georgian facades and classic architecture.
A newish venture containing wonderfully comfortable rooms, fine detail within, combined with a tremendously cosy and relaxed feeling. Young team running the show, no restaurant but a busy bar that can serve nibbles and small plates with a host of delicious cocktails. Breakfast covers all the bases in the basement.
After a day of tramping the streets, it was a great sanctuary to return to.
15 Great Pulteney Street, Bath, BA2 4BS - link