Returning from a recce in the Northern Rhône, and a week before in Provence, then the change in temperature at Heathrow on Thursday afternoon quickly convinced me that autumn was definitely here.
Therefore, rich and concentrated reds to match the stews, casseroles, cassoulets and pies that might be coming back on the evening menu.
Malbec is synonymous with Argentina, but the grape started life in the French town of Cahors, located in southwest France not far from the Pyrenees. It was probably introduced by the Romans around 150AD. It came under ‘English control’ when Henry Plantagenet married Eleanor of Acquitaine in 1152. It was part of Eleanor’s dowry, and her land extended from the Loire to the Pyrenees, including the region of Bordeaux.
With 116,000 acres planted with Malbec, accounting for just shy of 25% of the total area under vine, it is certainly the flagship of the Argentinian wine industry.
Five wines were lined up from Tesco, Majestic, and Waitrose, all under £20, allowing easy access to anyone wanting to stock up immediately on a seasonal brew. Also in the tasting was a slightly more expensive wine from probably Argentina’s most respected winery, Catena. Just there to see if the extra few pounds made a significant difference.
It did, and the second place went to a joint venture between Catena and the Domaines Barons de Rothschild stable. Both of these wines are young and will certainly evolve over the coming years. They would benefit from decanting before serving. However, not essential.
1 - Petit Caro 2020
This blend of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes combines the bold and striking flavours of Argentina with the elegance you would expect from the Rothschild camp. Bright blackcurrant with earthy tones on the nose, and a punchy palate with smooth tannins, plentiful fruit, all balanced with delicate acidity and considerable length. Hearty and velvety, it would sit very well alongside rump steak with a rich pepper sauce. Petit Caro is the relatively new second wine from this South American project and these two highly respected families.
£19.99 - Waitrose
2 - Catena Alta 2021
The Catena family have forged an enviable reputation. With a family involved in winemaking since the early 1900s, this venture was created in 1994 by Nicolás Catena, with his daughter now in operational control, the company has focused on creating consistently high quality wines. A richly perfumed nose needs a few moments to start showing its potential, but when placed into a large glass it soon opens up and is a very enticing wine. Richly concentrated, this is a powerful creation that has evident class, with good length, and very much sits in the style of a wine to accompany red meat.
£25.99 - Waitrose
