
An offer arrived from Yapp Brothers regarding their own label White Burgundy from Cave de Lugny, a superb cooperative in Southern Burgundy. Therefore, having not tasted the recent vintage, 2023, I thought it might be useful to see what else they have in their stable around the same price point. Yapp have established a very good reputation over the last few decades, and heading into own-label has been a relatively recent development.
The panel was looking for a versatile White Burgundy that could sit alongside asparagus, poached salmon, coronation chicken, smoked trout pate, caesar salad, and a host of other summer dishes. A selection of wines was acquired from ’23, ’22’ and ’21 vintages, and pricing from £16.75 to £35.50, was assembled.
The wines for this tasting come from the broader definition of Southern Burgundy encompassing Côte Chalonnaise, Mâconnais and Beaujolais. Albeit Chardonnay vines in Beaujolais account for only around 2% of all plantings.
There are an enormous array of wines in this field from many different merchants, all around the same price points. The four under £20 should deliver a good, everyday wine, that could sit as an aperitif, as well as accompanying light summer dishes, and the two more expensive wines should be delivering a considerable enhancement.
The flight consisted:
- Beaujolais Villages: Arnaud Aucoeur 'Vieilles Vignes' Blanc 2022 - £16.75
- Yapp White Burgundy: Cave de Lugny 2023 - £17.95
- Bourgogne Chardonnay: Closerie des Alisiers 2023 - £18.95
- Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine: Château de Berzé 2023 - £19.50
- Beaujolais-Villages: Domaine de Fa 'Leynes - Les Magnons' Blanc 2022 - £24.00
- Domaine Bruno Colin Hautes-Côtes de Beaune 2021 - £35.50
Two were very good for their quality and value:
1 - Yapp White Burgundy, Cave de Lugny 2023
£17.95 - Yapp
Immensely drinkable! Light, fragrant nose with hints of limes and lemons. Easy and very appealing on the palate combining lemon acidity with a touch of tropical fruits and pears. Good length, and the second glass will be poured fairly quickly. Salad niçoise, roast chicken, or just by itself with a caramelised onion humous or taramasalata and flat breads. A perfect ‘house wine’ for this summer. If you looking for a very quaffable White Burgundy, then this hits the mark to perfection.
2 - Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine: Château de Berzé 2023
£19.50 - Yapp
If shellfish is the order of the day, then this has a smidgeon more acidity that would work to absolute perfection with lobster, langoustine, crab or crevette grise. And with a mushroom risotto it would be a stunner. Dover sole meunière also springs to mind. Obviously, asparagus and hollandaise would be the perfect way to start a long, summer lunch. Fragrant nose with tones of fresh apples, and a lively lemon acidity on the palate combined with stone-fruit flavours of peaches and apricots. Good length and a very smooth finish. Backstory: Château de Berzé was built by the Counts of Milly to protect the nearby Benedictine Abbey at Cluny.
An order for a few more bottles of both has been executed.