A Perfect Aperitif
… Alsace’s Gewürztraminer …
In penning this missive on this grape variety, I hope to convince many of you to be adventurous and explore a specific style of Gewürztraminer you may not have encountered before.
The milder variants of this grape when managed by very professional winemakers, can create a perfect drink to enjoy alongside a few nibbles on a summer’s evening, as an entry point for supper.
Many who have already tried this grape may have come across a style that is richly extracted, overly promiscuous, and could be labelled a fruit-bomb: too obvious, flagrantly over-the-top, and lacking in decorum. When paired with the right foods - foie gras springs to mind - then that style has a well-defined spot in the culinary world.
However, this is a grape versatile enough to be dry as well as lusciously sweet. The two wines below are light, refreshing and definitely restrained. There is an element of residual sugar, but it is light, and with the flavours of tropical fruits concocted in the glass, works extremely well.
There are approximately 20,000 acres of this grape planted around the world, with just over a quarter in France’s Alsace region. In the UK, this region is certainly a niche market, mainly due to the wines being sold by grape or style rather than the appellation where they reside that exists across the majority of French appellations, ie Sancerre.
Therefore, it is not easily understood, and most people seeing the bottle assume it comes from Germany, that could also be described as a niche player in this market.
A panel was assembled to taste what I would describe as four entry-level wines, with easy accessibility coming from either Waitrose or Majestic. Two came out significantly ahead of the others.
1 - Paul Blanck Gewürztraminer 2023.
Pale yellow colour, with a lightly fragrant nose. Uplifting on the palate with delicate tropical fruit flavours of mango, lychees, and papaya. Rich, medium-bodied, with good length and, at this level, a clean longish finish. Might evolve over time as well. This would slip down very easily on a summer’s evening nattering away outside.
£17.50 - Waitrose - merchant link
2 - Domaines Schlumberger ‘Les Princes Abbés’ Gewürztraminer 2023
Enchanting nose of caramelised oranges, light grapefruit tones, and a hint of saline. Complex layers on the palate: a richness with a light touch of residual sugar adds to the complexity. Acidity well-balanced, pronounced fruit with very good length. It’s immensely comforting. Rather like putting on an old glove, it coats the palate with a creamily rich texture that sits for a fair period of time. Slightly old-school and engaging. Not an item to dwell over, but something to enjoy with friends while the tapenade would create a superb foil, as would stuffed olives, fennel-infused saucisson, and taramasalata.
£18.50 - Majestic - six mix price - merchant link
