With the En Primeur campaign for the Bordeaux 2025 vintage in full swing, this might be a moment to reflect on 1982.

‘Vintage of the Century’ was the label attached to the 1982 harvest in Bordeaux when it arrived en primeur during early 1983. It was unquestionably an exceptionally good vintage in terms of the quality of the wine produced.

However, it was much more than a great vintage.

It arrived at a moment in time with a unique set of factors that, when combined, would change the international wine market forever. It is these other factors, alongside the fact that it was a great quality vintage, that make Bordeaux 1982 the most influential year since the Second World War.

To put this in context, it is important to consider the vintages of the 1970s; reflect on the economies of Europe and North America for the decade before; alongside the wealth created during the 1980s; the arrival of the wine broker; global pricing of high-quality wine; the rise of the American wine writer Robert Parker; and finally, an assessment of the vintage itself.

The economies of Europe and North America had been in the doldrums during the 1970s. The tide changed with the arrival of Thatcher in Downing Street and Reagan in the White House. Wealth was being created in the City and on Wall Street at a faster rate than at any time since the Industrial Revolution. “Bing-Bang”, high-yield “junk” bond markets, LBOs, the easing of interest rates - starting in 1982 - combined with tax cuts, fuelled investment, driving asset prices - stocks and real estate - upward. Wall Street profits rose from less than 10% of all corporate profits in 1982 to 40% by 2003.

With these increases in income and wealth, aspirations and expectations were growing. The estate in the Cotswolds, the Yorkshire Grouse moor, a chalet in Gstaad, the yacht in the Mediterranean, the Aston, the house in Chelsea, and, of course, a notable wine cellar. Movies and TV series such as Trading Places, Wall Street, and Harry Enfield’s ‘Loadsamoney’ captured the ‘greed is good’ mood. The padded shoulders, Armani suits, 911s, yellow ties and braces, yuppies, conspicuous consumption, Brooks Brothers, Filofax, DINKY couples - the list can go on and on. Wine, particularly Claret, was an essential part of this lifestyle.

The 1982 Bordeaux Vintage saw wine become a trading commodity for the first time: very much in tune with the times. The arrival of the wine broker played a critical role in the price escalation. Farr Vintners, set up by Jim Farr and Lindsay Hamilton in the late 70s, with Steve Browett joining them a couple of years later, led the charge when wine bought in Chicago could be sold for an inflated price in Geneva; wine bought in London would reach new heights in Singapore; or a parcel bought from a country estate added to a fashionable London restaurant wine list at a significant profit. The global pricing of fine wine was accelerating, as was demand, and this vintage was a critical driver in the velocity of appreciation. This trend has continued over the last 40 years but is currently faltering: the subject of another missive over the coming month. Broking became part of the business of wine following the 1982 vintage.

An event that celebrates its 50th Birthday this year is the Judgement of Paris, which took place on 24th May 1976, and changed international wine pricing. The immensely charming, and sadly missed, Steven Spurrier organised a tasting in Paris on this day. He wanted to compare the finest Cabernet Sauvignons from California with Clarets, and Californian Chardonnays with White Burgundies. The tasting was blind. All the judges were French. Everyone expected the established names from France to win the day. Much to the horror of all present, the Californians were voted the winners. Questions were asked in the French Parliament, and this was seen as a national embarrassment in France. French wine had long been regarded as the global benchmark, so the outcome challenged deeply embedded assumptions about cultural and agricultural superiority.

The tasting transformed the wine world by questioning French dominance, elevating New World regions, and shifting evaluation toward blind tasting and quality-based judgment, laying the foundation for today’s competitive global wine market. At the time of this tasting, the Californians were charging around one-third of the price of the French equivalent. Not surprisingly, that changed very quickly: the logic from the wineries in California was that if the French think our wines are better than theirs, then we should be charging as much as they do. By 1982, the international wine market was changing, and the Judgement of Paris had significantly hastened that process.

Therefore, not a direct impact from the 1982 vintage, but the acknowledgement that regions such as California and Australia were beginning to produce wines of equal quality, if not necessarily exact replicas, was changing perceptions at the top end of the wine market, and many of these wines started to appear in the glitzy restaurants around the world. I remember drinking a Chardonnay from California’s Far Niente winery at New York’s Grand Central Oyster Bar in early 1982 that completely altered my own reference point to what could be achieved outside of France.

The arrival of a new wine champion, in the shape or Robert Parker, came to international fame in 1982 for strongly endorsing the Bordeaux vintage, even as many traditional critics were cautious. His accurate assessment, independent voice, and clear 100-point scoring system proved influential as the wines excelled, establishing his credibility and global authority.

Many have been critical of Parker, as winemakers created wines that aligned with his palate, a phenomenon often termed “Parkerisation.” Yes, there was a short-term, perhaps even medium-term, shift towards his preference for “fruit-bombs” - riper fruit, more new oak, high alcohol, low acidity - that motivated Bordeaux winemakers to achieve a good Parker score that made selling the wine in North America much more effective. However, in 1982, a significant number of chateaux in Bordeaux were not making wines of a particularly high standard. He changed that, almost overnight. Also, he changed the wine vocabulary. Looking back at books on wine tasting from the late 60s and early 70s, there is none of the precision that he brought to the description of wine in his publication, The Wine Advocate, which used a fruit-driven lexicon, encouraging a move toward flavour-led tasting notes, making wine easier for consumers to understand.

Parker’s influence extended beyond Bordeaux, affecting wine regions worldwide and increasing market transparency, while also perhaps concentrating power in the hands of the wine journalist. Most critics now use some form of rating system - sometimes 5, 10 or 20 rather than 100 - and it has become an essential part of the wine writing business. Any wine achieving 100/100 acquires the status of a minor deity. All of this was achieved from launching his publication in 1978 and coming of age four years later in 1982.

Many Bordeaux vintages have been lauded as the ‘Vintage of the Century’ over the last 40 years. Many have been as good as 1982; many would argue that a number have been better. Let’s not worry about precise definitions; after all, every vintage is very different, and 1982 easily stands out as one of the top 10 vintages since the legendary 1945 vintage.

The 1970s experienced only two good vintages: 1970 and 1975; two moderate vintages 1971 and 1978; the rest were generally light in style and body, diluted, and worryingly inconsistent. The reputation of the world’s most prestigious wine region was in tatters, consumers lost confidence, and merchants around the world found these wines very difficult to sell. Stock levels in merchants’ cellars continued to increase as consumers bought wines from other regions, notably California.

Then came along 1982. Early flowering and even ripening were followed by a warm, dry summer with abundant sunshine, with grapes reaching optimal maturity by harvest, resulting in high sugar levels, ripe tannins, and richly flavoured concentration. The wines were full-bodied and opulent, with soft, easygoing tannins that made them very appealing in the short term and capable of ageing exceptionally well. Given the dire vintages of the 1970s, a legend had been born: a truly transformative, benchmark year that would have ramifications for the decades ahead.

Therefore, it is not just the quality of the 1982 Bordeaux vintage that marks it as the Vintage of the Century, but when combined with the factors listed above, it really did see a renaissance in the fortunes of producers and merchants. Bordeaux pricing has a direct impact on the global wine industry, and the significant increases in 1982 affected every other high-quality wine region worldwide. It was truly a game-changer, and although many of the great wines produced 40 years ago have long since been consumed, the legacy it established has reverberated through the world of wine long after the bottles have been emptied.

The Taino people - indigenous peoples of the Caribbean, inhabiting islands like Hispaniola and Puerto Rico - had a wooden scaffold or grill for smoking meat called a barbacoa or barabicu.

It was Gonzalo Fernández de Oviedo y Valdés (1478–1557) - a Spanish historian, chronicler of the Indies, and early naturalist - who first referred to a barbacoa in 1526. His writings helped transmit the term “barbacoa” into Spanish and in 1648 the word entered English as barbacado and eventually became barbecue by 1661. Today, the word appears as “barbecue,” “barbeque,” or the abbreviated “BBQ”.

Arguably, barbecue is much more than a method of cooking: it is often a social ritual tied to identity, community gatherings, and tradition. In Argentina, the Asado is central to national identity, featuring grilled meats over open fire; in Brazil, Churrasco involves skewered meats cooked over flame, often in communal settings; in South Africa, the braai is both a cooking method and a key social tradition; in Jamaica, jerk cooking combines Indigenous Taíno techniques with African influences; to name but a few.

Wine is most definitely needed at these gatherings, and below are three reds that I came across recently. More updates on this subject as the summer unfolds - albeit still a bit chilly at the moment, but time to get the bottles in for those long lunches and suppers ahead.

1 - Château Maris, Les Planels, Minervois, La Livinière 2022, Languedoc-Roussillon, France.

A rather classic Southern France blend of predominantly Syrah with Grenache making up around 15% of the final brew. The terraces where the “Les Planels” Syrah grows have been there for 35 years. Aged in French oak barrels for 12 months - one-third being new - there is a rich concentration of black fruits - cherries and cassis - on the nose and palate. The new oak adds a light touch of vanilla and there is a definite plum flavour at the end of the palate and just a sprinkling of chocolate. Noted for its exceptional value for money over a number of recent vintages.

£19.50 - Waitrose - merchant link

2 - Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2021, Swartland, South Africa.

This winery is one of the real stars in South Africa, making a great name across all the different wines it produces. Does this 2021 need another year before the cork is pulled? Perhaps, but it is drinking exceptionally well today, and if you decanted it an hour before it is needed then that slight element of oxygen would lift it . Is this the best South African Syrah? Certainly, one of the top five. Is it the best value South African Syrah? Unquestionably with the 20% discount currently available at Waitrose..

There is a richness on the nose with bundles of earthy and red-fruit flavours, just a hint of mushrooms or forest floor discernible as you swirl the glass. Darker berries on the palate - blackberries - and tannins working well with oaky components. At the very end there is a reminder of an earthy, almost savoury finish that is very attractive, and would work to perfection with succulent joints from the barbecue. Full-bodied, opulent and slips down with immense ease. You might leave it for a few more years, as it certainly has a long way to go

Available from many wineries. Priced at Waitrose with a discount until 28-Apr-26. Berrys have it in bond alongside older vintages. If you like what you find, then buying some of the older brews would be a very good addition to your cellar. The pricing of the 2018 comes in Duty Paid, inc VAT, at just under £40.

£38.50 - Waitrose - merchant link

3 - Domaine du Clos des Fées ‘Le Clos des Fées’ Rouge 2016, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, France.

Sixty notes for a Cotes du Roussillon might seem a bit toppy, even if it is ten years old. It’s not, I can assure you. It’s simply stunning. Mates coming over for lunches or dinners this summer will be exposed to this utterly radiant, imposing, and superbly crafted wine that has been created.

The grapes from very old Carignan and Grenache vines are blended with younger Syrah and Mourvèdre - all with equal proportions - then aged for eighteen months in new oak. The appellation is located in an amphitheater-shaped region around Perpignan, bordered by the Pyrenees to the west, the Corbières to the north.

Alongside the black fruits on the nose - blackcurrants and black cherries - are subtle tones of vanilla from the new oak. Perfectly orchestrated ripeness on the palate that has layers of silky complexity, with depth, character, elegance and longevity. There is concentration that evolves as the wine opens in the glass, with an almost broody tone, that is simply adorable. I’m not sure I’ve tasted a wine of this richness at this price point for many, many years. Buy a couple of bottles, taste, be amazed, and then order a couple of cases for when only the finest cuts are being added to the barbecue this summer. You might like to keep it to one side for the roast beef this autumn as well.

£60 - Yapp - merchant link

With this week’s weather almost convincing us that Spring was just around the corner, I thought it was time to start covering a few rosés from the excellent 2025 vintage, and a new find to accompany chocolate.

There were bundles of warmth during the growing season across France and perhaps, in some parts of Provence, a touch too much. However, the team at Triennes have worked their magic and created a great wine for £14.95, magnums at £33, and double magnums at £85.00. Plenty of scope for many lunches and dinners this summer. Triennes was born in 1989 by two legends from Burgundy, Jacques Seysses of Domaine Dujac and Aubert de Villaine of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. As heritage goes in the world of wine, it does not come much classier than this.

The sprightly blend of Cinsault, Syrah, Grenache and Merlot captures those moments sitting outside, chatting away, reaching for another helping of the coronation chicken, and enjoying the company of friends and family. Oodles of rose petals, summer fruits and blossom sit on the nose, leading to a perfectly balanced, elegant and delicate roundness on the palate with just the right touch of light acidity. Definitely, a ‘let’s keep a bottle of this in the fridge door’ wine until late September.

Triennes, Rosé, Mediterranée 2025

£14.95 - Berry’s - merchant link

More missives on rosés to follow over the coming weeks.

Enhancing A Chocolate Moment

If there are still a few Easter Eggs loitering in the pantry, or just a strong liking for chocolate in general, then this Curaçao will enhance those evening moments after supper when just a sliver settles the digestion. Regard this as Cointreau on steroids. Needs chilling, and a small, well crafted glass to lift the moment. It’s only 25%, so nothing that will cause too much grief even if a second or third glass was required just to finish off the Dairy Milk.

£28.24 - Merchant of Malt - merchant link

Considering how much chocolate might be heading into households over the next few days, a quick assessment of wines that might be able to cope with these dietary additions seemed an option.

Also, to provide a relatively easy point-of-purchase given the closeness to Easter, Waitrose seemed a good place to start. Apologies, as I do seem to be covering this retailer extensively at the moment, but their speed of online delivery to your nearest store plus their extensive selection, makes them an easy option for last minute thoughts on vinous matters.

A collection was acquired, and a small panel was assembled.

The ‘banker’ in this equation was the Rutherglen Muscat that I knew would be able cope with chocolate, and any other pudding that might be under construction for the weekend, regardless of the sweetness level, and was a useful reference point for the other wines.

The first two listed here, out of the six tasted, were delicious, but not suited as a pairing option for chocolate.

1 - Santa Cristina Vin Santo 2021

Given the price, this was a real surprise. Light aromas of toffee apples and figs, with a delicate and elegant palate that had dried fruits sitting alongside very light acidity and bundles of ripe, honeyed flavours. Not overly complex, but a delight to drink, and would work well as an aperitif with toasted almonds and tomato-based bruschetta, and unquestionably a light foie gras. Half-bottle.

£14.44 - Waitrose - includes 25% discount for six or more - merchant link

2 - Feiler-Artinger On The QT Bin 33: Ruster Ausbruch

A very classy Austrian wine in great packaging. Lightly honeyed notes on the nose, with a refreshing balance between sweetness and acidity. Stone and tropical fruits are very much in evidence, and the grapefruit acidity works with the ripe blossom flavours. Again, no match for chocolate, but if you are eating apple crumble, bread and butter pudding, or a Bakewell tart, this would be ideal. Also, a ripe and high quality Gorgonzola would be a treat. Half-bottle.

£19.88 - Waitrose - includes 25% discount for six or more - merchant link

3 - Fèlsina Vin Santo Chianti Classico

This is rather grown up. The vineyard is northeast of Sienna, and this exquisite wine is made from Trebbiano, Malvasia and Sangiovese grapes. The grapes are allowed to dry out until the January or February after the harvest, concentrating the juices, then a slow fermentation follows, and finally around 7 years in casks. On the nose and palate tropical fruits - pineapples and mangos - combine with stone fruit flavours of peaches and apricots. Yes, it will pair with chocolate, but that’s not where it stops. If the foie gras is very rich and opulent, then pile it onto the brioche, and fill a large glass of this nectar to create a exceptionally memorable moment. Half-bottle.

£30.00 - Waitrose - includes 25% discount for six or more - merchant link

Many wine families and estates broaden their offering by opening new operations in regions outside their usual territory or engaging in a joint venture with an existing producer.

One thinks of Moët & Chandon opening Domaine Chandon in Napa in 1973 and, under the same name, a winery in Ningxia region of China in 2014 ; the 1979 joint venture between Mouton Rothschild and Robert Mondavi to create Opus One; Lafite Rothschild establishing Viños Los Vascos in Chile; Mondavi and the Italian family Frescobaldi to create Luce and Ornellaia; Domaine Drouhin establishing a top-flight winery in Oregon; Louis Roederer’s USA operations now owning 25% of all vineyards in Anderson Valley, northern Californian. The list goes on and on.

Therefore, it is not surprising that a prominent Northern Rhône producer such as Alain Graillot would look further afield. With a site in the Ardèche creating a Côtes du Rhône, ‘Clos Somi’; the acquisition of land in Beaujolais in 2013 to establish Domaine de Fa; and joint ventures in both Spain and Morocco. The broader operations of this family company are now managed by two brothers, Antoine and Maxime, as Alain died in 2022.

Their Northern Rhône wines are superb. Consistently of the highest quality, and have built a strong following in France and beyond. Yapp Brothers bring in the other wines, so I thought a tasting across the board would be interesting to see how they matched up alongside each other.

1 - Domaine Alain Graillot, Côtes-du-Rhône ‘Clos Somi’ 2024

A couple of notches above the Côtes-du-Rhônes from the larger producers, this equally proportioned bland of Cinsault, Grenache Noir and Syrah, is an easy-drinking and immensely quaffable red. Characteristic Grenache spice on the nose, with a warm and friendly palate that would sit comfortably alongside cottage pie, steak and kidney, or a chicken and mushroom pie during any cold spells that still might be around this Spring.

£19.95 - Yapp - merchant link

2 - Tandem, Syrah du Maroc 2023

A joint venture between Alain Graillot and the Ouled Thaleb winery in Morocco. If a wine had been designed to perfectly match lamb tagine, then this ticks all the boxes. The combination of spices such as cumin, ginger, turmeric and saffron slowly pervading the structure and fibre of a very slow-cooked lamb dish with lots of root vegetables, then this is the ideal partner. Full-bodied and generous with plump red fruit backed with good acidity and tannins, works very, very well. Drink today.

£21.25 - Yapp - merchant link

3 - Antoine Graillot & Raúl Pérez ‘Encinas’ 2022

You do not see many wines entirely from the Mencia grape. Created in the Bierzo region of northwest Spain, it is a rich concoction that is difficult to place in relatively terms to any other wine. However, it is very drinkable, but definitely needs food. Venison, port-laden beef stews, rich and fatty barbecued lamb. Raul Pérez is a Spanish legend who has established a reputation for creating terroir-driven wines, and this richly complex wine with very appealing and desirable red cherries and plums on the palate is a great find.

£25.00 - Yapp - merchant link

4 - Domaine de Fa, Fleurie ‘Roche Guillon’ 2023

Both of these wines, the St Amour below, have close parallels.

The region of Beaujolais has been through a transformation over the last two decades with a host of new producers arriving from other wine producing regions to significantly lift the overall quality of: many of these new producers are creating wines that would be unrecognisable twenty years ago. The focus has been on the 10 ten individual crus creating red wines, who have their own designated AOCs, in the northern part of the region.

The grape is the Gamay. Albeit, anyone who remembers the Beaujolais wines of the 80s and 90s, might not recognise these new creations. They are many miles apart. The wines from a few dozen producers - both old hands and new arrivals - are on a quality level that simply did not generally exist at the turn of the century.

Domaine de Fa is one such example.

Both of these wines need some time. I bought some of their 2015s a few years ago, and tasting them over the last few weeks, I have been surprised by how well they have aged, and what a delight it has been to pull these corks. These 23s are full of ripe, rich cherries, blackberries, hints of violets, with light, earthy tones of tapenade, and a good finish. They are both a tad closed, but keep for another 5 or more years, and they wioll reward the cellaring. The panel preferred the Fleurie, because it was a touch more forward. Both need time, and the Saint Amour will pip the Fleurie to the post in a few years.

£27.95 - Yapp - merchant link

5 - Domaine de Fa, Saint Amour ‘Côte de Besset’ 2023

£29.25 - Yapp - merchant link

6 - Alain Graillot, Crozes Hermitage 2022

If you like Syrah grown in the Northern Rhône, then you will like this wine. It’s a bit young, but the classically flawless nose, depth, ansd overall character combine to create a brew will age to perfection by the early 2030s. Even though the extreme heat of this vintage worried many producers, the overall standard is looking excellent. It will mature into a wine with layers of complexity, that will sit well with roast beef, coq au vin, and game.

£36.50 - Yapp - merchant link

A light dusting of honeysuckle might be the phrase needed to describe these wines.

Sometimes, you need an edge to transform the pairing of a wine with certain dishes from Southeast Asia. Then Germany can come to the rescue. A country that produces exquisitely bone-dry Rieslings of utter precision, can also create wines from the same grape that possess just a fraction of sweetness that can flow to perfection with aromatic, spicy and vibrant dishes.

But not just Southeast Asian dishes. Lobster, prawns, and langoustine all have a degree of richness that comes from the amino acids given that the finest examples of these crustaceans come from cold water habitats. Again, the precision of a Spätlese, with its concentrated fruit flavours and resonant acidity, would enhance these oceanic delights.

Other classic white varieties - Chardonnay and Sauvignon - just do not work with Thai dishes. The high acidity in the Sauvignon works badly with our mouth’s heat-sensitive receptors, accentuating the heat and spice, creating a bitterness. Chardonnay’s natural buttery and oaky flavours are simply out of kilter and nullify both the food and the wine.

Many of you may already be afficiandos of these wines. If not, then as an introduction to this style of wine, here are three from Waitrose - easily accessible on the next online order - that gently set in motion a new relationship from an entry level at £14.50 to a flawless and outstanding example at £44.50.

Also, as a bit of an aside, these wines are 8-8.5% alcohol. If you are looking for wines with much less punch, then Germany again meets this brief.

1 - Leitz Magdalenenkreuz Riesling Kabinett 2024

With a history dating back to 1744, this family company has seen significant growth sine the mid-1980s expanding their plantings from 3 hectares to over 130. This entry level wine would be a perfect starting point to begin a vinous journey into wines made from the Riesling grape in Germany. Delicate, floral noise with fresh pears mingled amongst peaches. Precise and clean on the palate with green and citrus fruit flavours, and the lift of fresh fruit mingles in with medium acidity: a very refreshing glass. With lightly spiced food or simply a drink to enjoy over Easter if the sun is shining at noon or early evening.

£14.50 - Waitrose - merchant link

2 - Dönnhoff Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spätlese 2023

Dönnhoff is a very established name in the Nahe region in southwest Germany. Nestled by the Mosel to the west and the Rheinhessen to the east and south, it is a relatively small region - just over 4,000 hectares - but with a diverse collection of soil types and a very balanced micro-climate.

Not as old as Leitz - 1761 - but with a formidable following and recognised as one of the quality-focused producers within the area, it consistently creates magical expressions of the Riesling grape. The vines for this wine are located in the oldest recorded vineyards of the Nahe, part of the village of Norheim.

This really is a wine that is impossible to have only one glass. Intense but refined on the nose, with mineral tones rather than just fruit. Focused acidity perfectly balanced with a savoury sweetness that lingers and lingers. Bright, blossoming fruit emerges on the finish. Classy and playful with immense character and absolute focus. It will age into the late 2030s.

£33.50 - Waitrose - merchant link

3 - Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Grunlack Spätlese 2022

An impressive estate sitting in a commanding position on a hill just outside the town of Rudesheim. Emperor Ludwig the Pious acquires vineyards on the Helisa stream, today’s Elsterbach, from Fulda Abbey in 817 - a bit of history here, but let’s not dwell on that component.

This wine is simply outstanding, and will be drinking into the late 2040s, perhaps early 2050s. However, that stated, it is also spectacularly good today.

Oodles of stone and tropical fruit on the nose, it has an intensity that is captivating. Savoury richness on the palate, that combines ripeness, precision and elegance into an engrossment of intense activity that goes on and on and on. Grapefruit, lime and a concentration of pineapple flavours arrive with vigour. Also, if you are looking for the perfect marriage with foie gras, then this would be a delight.

£44.50 - Waitrose - merchant link

Footnote. German wines are out of fashion. Why? Go back 150 years and they were the preferred vinous option for the aristocracy of Victorian England. However, varieties defined as Liebfraumilch, particularly brands such as Black Tower and Blue Nun, flooded the market in the 70s and 80s with relatively indifferent qulaity wine. As tastes changed, these fell into decline and the reputation from this style damaged Germany’s reputation for several decades. Today, the quality of German wine, across the range of wines exported, is on a different footing, and are acknowledged as being very high from bone-dry to lusciously sweet, as well as superb reds from the Pinot Noir.

Blah

Once in a while, you open a bottle from a winery you have not tasted before, and you think Christmas has arrived early.

Last weekend was such a moment. I had been researching the Justerini site, wearing another hat, and this property - Aalto - from Spain’s Ribera del Duero popped up.

There were two recent vintages that were available in magnums - 2020 and 2021. We had some friends for lunch, dinner and early evening drinks across the weekend, so I thought pulling the corks on Saturday lunch and extending the wine’s life over 30 hours would put these magnums to the test.

Wines were ordered, and arrived within three days.

Opened and wines poured. The results were very straightforward. Over the three occasions, everyone thought they were stunning. Drinking impressively well today, and will certainly age for another 5 years. Even after pulling the cork on the 2021 for 30 hours, the wine was still gorgeous. However, why wait that long?

Serving roast beef, a robust beef stew, sirloin with a béarnaise, or cold beef sandwiches, would be a flawless marriage. Obviously, with a dollop of horseradish on the side or spread into the whole grain.

The is a strong commonality between the two wines. The deliciously integrated new oak springs forth as a blossoming vanilla pod and then you hit the enticing red and black fruit on the nose. The first sip grips you and your taste buds are overwhelmed by the glorious flavours that come to grab the palate. They are rich, enticing and just a delight. The 2021 needs a small amount of additional time, probably 2028 onwards, but the 2020 is stunning today. It deserves red meat. Any cut, recipe or even salad with a beef base will work. Surprise and astonish your guests, convince them that you serve wine of a calibre unknown by your coterie of those closest to you and who enjoy chatting, nattering and munching on great produce and, very importantly, recognising a vinous delight. Need I push these wines any further?

£93.18 / £99.18 per magnum for 2020 / 2021 - Justerinis - merchant link

Read Justerini’s summary of the team behind this vineyard - link

Although vines were planted in Mornington Peninsula in the late 1800s, it was not until 1972 that the gears changed and the area started producing high quality wines. The combination of a cool maritime climate, mild summer temperatures with extended autumn warmth, and diverse soil types, generates an ideal environment for growing top quality Pinot Noir. The area sits within my definition of the Pacific Rim where this grape variety is producing exceptional wines.

Richer and fuller than their counterparts in Burgundy, a number of the producers are now creating wines that have excellent ageing potential. Ten Minutes By Tractor is one such example.

We visited the property in July last year, and were warmly greeted by the current owner Martin Spedding. The winery was originally established in 1997 by three farming families who were ten minutes apart by tractor. Hence the name. Martin visited their cellar door 12th March, 2004, and finalised the purchase the following month. Over the last 20 years they have bought more vineyards and significantly expanded the operation.

We tasted three different wines last weekend and the overall feedback from the panel was to focus on the Judd. Both the Wallis and Coolart Road were very good, but the Judd was a significant distance ahead.

Judd Pinot Noir 2022, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia

Very rich, fragrant nose combining plums, cherries and cassis. The palate was concentrated, slightly closed at first, but after some time in the glass began to show the potential that another few years would deliver. The light oak ageing lifts the overall body and structure. It will age into a very classic Pinot with forest floor aromas becoming evident but retaining the concentrated fruits and very well balanced acidity that are in place today. I need to buy some more and forget about it until 2028 onwards. Would pair with duck to perfection, as well as rack of lamb.

£52.80 - VINVM - merchant link

Recipes abound for sea bass. From seared fillets; Mediterranean options with tomatoes, olives and oregano; East Asian style with ginger scallions and soy; baked parchment encased options with capers, herbs and lemons; miso-glazed recipes and then caramelised; and a whole host more.

Chefs love the versatility and ability to pair with citrus, herbs, and seasonings to work with the clean, mild flavor that doesn’t overpower sauces, plus a tender yet resilient texture that holds up to high-heat searing, baking, or steaming, and forgiving margins with cooking.

With such an array of options, it is difficult to pin down a single wine that would work with every dish. However, here are a few options.

1 - Domaine Careme Vouvray Spring Sec 2022, Loire, France.

Mediterranean style seabass dishes. The Chenin Blanc covers the entire spectrum of white wine styles in the Loire from bone dry to lusciously sweet. This is dry, but not bone dry, with stone fruit flavours combined with distinctive green apples and ripe pear flavours. For the price, immensely drinkable and would work perfectly with crustaceans as an opener for lunch.

£12.50 - Waitrose - on offer until early March - merchant link

2 - Langhe Chardonnay, Figli Luigi Oddero 2023, Piedmont, Italy.

Parchment encased with capers, herbs and lemons. It has good acidity that would work with this type of recipe, and bright, tight fruit on the palate that would slip down easily over lunch. This was a real surprise from the selection of wines that had been assembled for this pairing. A family run business that started producing wines in 1975 and is known for exceptional Barolos and Barbarescos, so a Chardonnay is an unusual option. But at this discounted price, a very good glass of well made wine that could be mistaken for a cold climate white from much further north in Europe.

£20.00 - Berry’s - inc 20% discount - merchant link

3 - Forest Hill Vineyard: ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2024, Western Australia.

Seared fillets. Again, a surprise as you would normally expect to find classic French offerings from Yapp and not a well crafted Oz Chardonnay. Here we have another cool climate offering with citrusy grapefruit and lime flavours, light oak and a comfortable finish. Definitely needs food, and sea bass would be a great marriage. A rather atypical Western Australian Chardonnay.

£22.00 - Yapp - merchant link

4 - Beaujolais-Villages, ‘Leynes - Les Magnons’ Blanc 2022, Domaine de Fa, Beaujolais, France.

Miso-glazed recipes. It’s not often you find a Beaujolais Blanc on a merchant’s shelf. 40+ years back you would have found it rather than a Mâcon, Rully, Givry or Mercurey. 100% Chardonnay and made by Maxine and Antoine Graillot of Domaine Alain Graillot - see below. This white seems to be under-the-radar from the critics as they all focus on this Domaine’s red Beaujolais Crus. Single-vineyard wine showing real depth with plenty of expressive citrus fruit tones combined with apricot and peach flavours. Would also work to perfection on a Friday evening with a rich, well-seasoned, fish pie.

£24.00 - Yapp - merchant link

5 - Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 2024, Alain Graillot, Northern Rhône, France.

East Asian options. With a blend of 80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne, there is enough weight here to sit very comfortably alongside lightly spiced fish dishes. This Domaine consistently delivers exceptional reds and whites from this region. Ripe pears, light oak, juicy acidity, touch of tangerines, and a great finish. There is a classy structure that provides excellent length and a full, rich body, with the tiniest hint of honey and spice in the mid-palate. You could drink this with many, many full-bodied seabass creations as well as poached salmon, tuna concoctions with ginger, and concentrated Bouillabaisse.

£35.00 - Yapp - merchant link

There is no shortage of winter vegetables available to create a plethora of wondrous dishes that warm the heart and soul on these damp, grey days. From this array, could the mushroom be the single most important element in these dishes: the king of winter?

Mushrooms bring a friendly, comforting and cosy warmth to these seasonal dishes. They add depth and umami to hearty winter staples like soups, pies, stews, braises, risottos, and gravies. Chefs value mushrooms for their depth, versatile textures, and culinary flexibility, adding body to many staples, and often used as a meat substitute in vegetarian dishes. Low in fat, high in umami and protein, plus rich in B vitamins, selenium, potassium, copper, fibre and antioxidants, thereby complementing nutrient-dense winter meals.

They have been part of our diet for many centuries. The earliest known written records of mushrooms as food come from ancient Greece. Theophrastus, around 300 BCE, described edible mushrooms in his major ancient Greek botanical work, Historia Plantarum. Mentioned by Pliny the Elder - 1st century CE - and in Chinese texts attributed to traditions dating from the Han era - roughly 2nd century BCE to 1st century CE.

Therefore, mushrooms could be described as the unsung heroes of the kitchen. With mushrooms in mind, then Italian wines would seem the logical partnership: you need a wine with depth, clarity and strength to work with the array of dishes that can be created with readily available fungi.

Not many people have tasted the Nerello Mascalese grape. It is an indigenous variety from Sicily primarily planted around Mount Etna. Fair to call it ‘under-the-radar’, and unless you have closely followed the wines from this island, then it will have never appeared as an option.

Sicily has grown a significant international following over the last few decades, establishing the island as a significant player in the global wine market. Diverse terroir, volcanic soils, varied climates, and importantly increased investment in modern winemaking practices, combined with a resurgence of traditional techniques, has enhanced grape quality and refined production.

Calderara Sottana is a notable wine-producing area located in the Etna DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) region on the northeastern slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily. It is becoming known for offering unique, high-quality wines that reflect the extraordinary characteristics of the volcanic soils that sit on Mount Etna.

Production from the winery Tenuta delle Terre Nere started in 2002. This Etna Rosso - Calderara Sottana - is produced from vines that are between 60 and 100 years old, planted between 600 and 650 metres above sea level, and positioned on the north side of Mount Etna, and they make make around 10,000 bottles, or 800-850 cases, of this wine. Small production.

As you head south in Italy, you may feel that the wines would become richer and heavier. Not so here. These are refined and very elegant. Light in colour, with noses that need to sit in the glass to open up their rich texture. If you enjoy top flight Red Burgundies from the warmer vintages, then these would tick that box to perfection. There is elegance here but with a slightly rounder profile, a touch more richness, softer and much more approachable at this age.

All three vintages of this wine - 2021, 2022, and 2023 - have a very strong house style. Grippy tannins sit alongside wild cherries, with nuances of oak, strawberries, smokey earth, dark cherries, a touch of heat pervades the corners, blackcurrants are always present. Delicacy and closely observed and manicured refinement. Nothing has been left to chance: the winemaker has closely nurtured these exquisite creations.

The three vintages are all different. But then the same. They will drink in their aged order. If they are of interest, then buy 1 bottle of the 2022 as a sample. It is a tad more generous.

A recommendation: buy a mixed case of 12 bottles - 4 of each vintage - and plan a lunch, or perhaps two, where you might considering serving a rich chicken, mushroom and pancetta risotto with a crisp green salad. Drink these alongside each other in 2028 to 2030, and savour that Saturday afternoon. It will be remembered by your guests as you will have spoilt them with three exceptional wines. Wines that they will not have tasted before, and will talk about for a long time to come.

£52-£53 - Calderara Sottana - Justerinis - merchant link

Cheese - Gugu Blu - A new find

Loitering around Borough Market last weekend, I came across this delicious blue cheese. Intense flavours in a very creamy texture. More saline that Stilton but a much softer structure on the palate. The ‘crust’ is made from Zibibbo ( a Sicilian Dessert Wine) with figs and walnuts: a perfect foil. Goes well with the Etna Rosso above.

Drunk Cheese - link - www.drunkcheese.co.uk

Blah

There are two Italian wines from Waitrose that should be bought for your cellar: a Barolo and a Brunello di Montalcino.

1 - Pio Cesare Barolo 2021

Slow cooking and truffles always spring to mind with a glass of Barolo in my hand. On an autumn or winter morning, with low clouds and mist nestling in the valleys around the hill towns, then the prospect of a hearty lunch is a very appealing option. The region is about 40 miles south of Turin, sitting in the middle of the broader Piedmont appellation, and growing only the Nebbiolo grape. Long associated with the House of Savoy - 1003 to 1946 - where the wines from this region were known as ‘the wine of kings, the king of wines’. From 1990 to 2004, the area under vine increased by 47% to around 2,000 hectares, mainly from US demand, with some of the top-tier plots now selling for northwards of €3m per hectare.

The House of Pio Cesare started in 1881, and they own approximate 80 hectares located across the Piedmont region. The grapes for their Barolo come from 9 different vineyards within the Barolo appellation, vinified in stainless steel, and then aged in large barrels of French and Eastern European oak for 24 months, before being placed in smaller French oak barriques ahead of the final bottling.

2021 saw an especially cold and relatively dry winter was then followed by a warm spring and a blisteringly hot summer that saw many producers struggle with drought conditions and a significant amount of canopy management was needed to protect the grapes. Yields were low but the quality is generally high.

This is a very classic Barolo with a modern twist. Historically, these wines needed a considerable amount of time to show their true colours, and although this is with doubt a classic Barolo, there is a forward amount of fruit combined with the tannins and acidity that is very approachable today, but the underlying factor is longevity. Superbly balanced and a very high quality wine that will accompany many rich winter dishes from 2030 into the early 2040s. Gracefully energetic but with refinement. A few years would just allow the tannins to integrate a smidgeon more: worth the wait.

£61.50 - Waitrose - link

2 - Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino 2017

The appellation of Brunello di Montalcino sits in southern Tuscany, where the vineyards flow amongst the gently rolling hills. The area under vine has grown from around 65 hectares in the 1960s to over 2,100 today. This is the pinnacle for the Sangiovese grape with vineyard elevations ranging from 150 to 500 meters. As the demand for these wines has grown, so has the pricing. However, given the rising cost of most fine wines around the world, for a wine that is 9 years old, has been superbly crafted, this is very good value.

Castiglion del Bosco is an interesting property. Records show that estate was established around 1100 AD with the construction of a castle (Castiglion) within a wooded area (bosco) in the Val d’Orcia. The significant change occurred in 2003 when it was acquired by Massimo and Chiara Ferragamo. In 2022 it was sold to an undisclosed international family office for an estimated €400m. Both del Bosco and Pio Cesare are brands within the Maison Marques & Domaines (MMD) portfolio - MMD is owned by Champagne Louis Roederer.

2017 was a tricky vintage with exceptionally poor conditions. However, as in every difficult vintage certain properties deliver outstanding results. This is a perfect example that a generalisation cannot determine the dedicated approach of focused and accomplished winemakers.

There is an engaging richness here that sits very comfortably on the palate once the first taste has been experienced. Is this the most enticing, desirable and really enjoyable Brunello that I have tasted in many years? Unquestionably, yes. Will it feature at dinner parties over the coming years? Yes. Generosity in spades. Velvety textures sit perched to invade your senses as this evocative wine works its flawless magic. This will evolve a touch over the next 4-6 years, but it is very, very drinkable today. It is a class act.

£61.50 - Waitrose - link

blah

With ‘Dry January’ heading to closure, it might be time to stock up on a few bargains before sharpening the corkscrew for 2026’s vinous delights.

Waitrose have another 25% off season, and perhaps a few Chardonnays for consumption in the short-term could be a good way to replenish diminished supplies after the festivities.

1 - Domaine Seguinot-Bordet Petit Chablis 2024, Burgundy

I’ve been tasting a few 2024 Burgundies over the last few weeks, and it is definitely a White Wine vintage. Unless you head a long way up the ratecard. This has a light, refreshingly bright, nutty mid-palate, and if you were serving prawns in any guise as a starter, then this is perfect. Uncomplicated, very well-made, and at under £15 per bottle exceptional value. Petit Chablis is made from vines perched on the higher plateau soils, outside the main vineyard area. Historically, often overlooked as a ‘second’ wine but today, with the accelerating prices for White Burgundies, then a tad under the radar, and very, very good value. Immensely quaffable.

£14.80 - Waitrose - 3 or more bottles - link

2 - Craggy Range Kidnappers Chardonnay 2023, Hawke’s Bay

Great balance between the acidity and the fruit. Light, refreshing, medium-bodied and well constructed. Sits very comfortably on the palate and with roast chicken would be perfect for the Sunday lunch.

£16.80 - Waitrose - 3 or more bottles - link

3 - Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons 2020, Burgundy

This must be a bin-end. This price for a very well made Premier Cru Chablis with a few years under its belt is exceptional value. Therefore, I do not know how much they have available. Well constructed with a defined lemony zing and ripe peaches on the palate. This estate is owned by Louis Labour: consistently makes very good wines.

£24.00 - Waitrose - 3 bottles or more - link

4 - Rustenberg Five Soldiers Chardonnay 2024, Stellenbosch

If you are heading to the Cape this winter, pop in for a tour and tasting at this winery. Not as glitzy as Delair Graff, and the buildings have not been given the extensive makeover they have at Vergelegen. However, sitting in their garden enjoying a collection of their wines on a bright, warm afternoon is a very tranquil place to explore what this winery creates. If you enjoy Chardonnay with food, then this with the veal in the creamy, mushroom sauce works wonders as it would with a Coronation Chicken during the summer. It will certainly keep for a few years.

£26.40 - Waitrose - 3 bottles or more - link

5 - Shaw & Smith M3 Chardonnay 2023, Adelaide Hills

As I have written about before, this has a distinct cult following in Australia. With good reason. Rich and deeply satisfying, it just works every time you pour a glass.

£28.80 - Waitrose - 3 bottles or more - link

6 - Pierro Chardonnay 2022, Margaret River

There is often a raised eyebrow when I suggest buying an Australian white for over £40 per bottle, never mind the non-discounted price of over £50. However, this is one of the many excellent Chardonnays being produced in the Margaret River region, just south of Perth. Red apples, peaches, gentle element of lemon peel, hints of oak from the barrel fermentation and ageing. Graceful, delicate, balanced with a long finish. It’s not White Burgundy, but on the quality scale it matches and surpasses pound-for-pound. A wine to always have in your cellar. This will carry on providing exquisite drinking into the early 2030s.

£42.40 - Waitrose - 3 bottles or more - link

If your wine list for the festive lunches and dinners is looking a bit light in the pre- and post- departments, here are a few last minute sparklers and stickies available from the shelves of your local Waitrose, or via their online portal providing you order pronto.

1 - Cave de Lugny, Crémant de Bourgogne Blanc de Blancs

Pre-lunch. The two oldest cooperatives in Southern Burgundy, one founded in 1926 and the other in 1927, merged in 1966 to form a significant production entity that creates a raft of different wines from over 400 members. The Cave de Lugny has been exporting wines to USA and UK for over 40 years, and has three wineries. Many Mâcons, under a plethora of different labels and sold through many different retailers and merchants, come from this very well respected company.

The one making this wine is located in the village of Chardonnay and is dedicated to the production of sparkling wines. The term Crémant refers to sparkling wines made using the méthode champenoise but are outside the region of Champagne: Alsace, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Jura, Languedoc-Roussillon, Loire and Savoie all make Crémant.

I have promoted this wine many times in the past as I consider it to be the best value sparkling wine currently available in the UK. 100% Chardonnay, it is very well made, light and refreshing but the acidity is not harsh as it is superbly balanced.

£19.00 - Waitrose - link

2 - Hattingley Valley Classic Reserve NV

Pre-dinner. I do not know why Waitrose are selling this at a 33% discount, but they are. Hattingley is one of the largest English Sparkling Wine producers, based in Hampshire, just north of Alresford. Classic green apple on the nose and palate, with a touch of brioche, and lots of lemony flavours. Bright acidity tempered with balanced fruit and a good finish. At this price, it is exceptional value.

£24.00 - Waitrose - link

3 - Gosset Petite Douceur Rosé Extra Dry Champagne

Brunch. The wine trade loves Gosset. It is the oldest Champagne House, founded in 1584. It makes around 1.3m bottles every year, that is small alongside Möet with 30m+, and even its neighbour in the village of Aÿ, Bollinger making 2.5m. The total production for the whole Champagne region is around the 300m mark. Today, the House is owned by the Renaud-Cointreau group.

Eggs Benedict on a cold, frosty morning would lift the spirits. Made from a predominantly Chardonnay blend - around 60% - and balanced with Pinot Noir, it is aged for a minimum of 11 years in their cellar before release. Red fruits - strawberries and raspberries - sit very comfortably on the palate and there is a touch more fruit in this blend that lifts the taste buds.

£60.00 - Waitrose - link

4 - Louis Roederer Brut 2016

Christmas Day. Roederer needs little introduction. A family-run operation founded in 1833 and is now run by the seventh generation. I’ve been a long-term fan of this Champagne House, and there are always a few cases in my cellar acquiring additional ageing.

This wine is no exception. It is drinking exceptionally well today, but if you have a significant birthday, anniversary, need to celebrate between 2030 and 2035, then buy a couple of cases and hide them in a deep dark corner of your cellar so that you cannot easily pull out a bottle on a whim. A friend had organised a dinner a couple of weeks ago, and was serving the 2005. Deliciously fresh, with years still to go. This 2016 vintage is very well made and will age gracefully. Try a bottle or two over the next week or so, and would be perfect for New Year’s Eve.

£70.00 - Waitrose - link

5 - Blandy’s 2017 Harvest Malmsey

Mince Pies, late afternoon. If you have returned from a long, afternoon walk, and settling down with a pot of tea and a few mince pies or Christmas Cake, then this would be a perfect moment to enjoy a long forgotten wine. Light in colour, pronounced dried fruits on the nose, with a creamy, luscious, generous and delicious palate. Rich and candied. Served slightly chilled, and it would also work as a pre-lunch aperitif, lifting the palate and enhancing the appetite in anticipation of the feast ahead. Try it with a few walnuts. I’ll write more about the wines from this forgotten island in 2026.

£25.00 - 50cl - Waitrose - link

6 - Kopke Colheita Tawny Port 2005

Cheese course. A single vintage tawny port from a producer who knows how to make excellent wines. Pull the cork, no need to decant, and pour this wine into a smallish glass to sip and savour a superbly crafted wine. Concentrated woody flavours married with caramel, dried apricots and plums, very light touch of discrete acidity, and great length. Serve straight from the fridge door. If you are enjoying a robusto, then this would be a great match.

£31.00 - Waitrose - link

May I wish you all a very Happy Christmas, enjoy the festivities, and I look forward to providing direction on all vinous matters in 2026!

Following on from last week’s list of Seasonal Whites, here are a few more to add to the list for Christmas.

The first three of the wines listed below were covered in an earlier missive - Autumn Reds - that can be read again at dappled.info. All current receivers of the missives will be moved across to this site early next year. The site contains all the previous missives, and please ignore the call to subscribe when you land there for the first time as that will be an automatic process. Nearly completed, but still needs a few tweaks.

1 - Moss Wood Amy’s Blend 2022, Margaret River, Australia.

Lamb cutlets for lunch. This iconic and internationally renowned winery produces an array of wines from consistently reliable entry-level creations to top flight Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignons. This wine at less than £20 is delivering a very refined, subtle and superbly balanced wine. 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 7% Malbec, and 5% Petit Verdot. The light fragrance of blackcurrants on the nose is accompanied with a delicate offering of fruit, tannins and acidity all in balance. Blueberries and blackcurrants settle on the palate with a touch of oak, and a medium finish. It is a very well-made package.

£18.50 - Waitrose - link

2 - Rustenberg John X Merriman 2022, Stellenbosch, South Africa.

Roast leg of lamb for dinner. Slightly fuller and richer than the Moss Wood. It delivers in spades and at this price it is always exceptional value for money. 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 1% Malbec. Classic blackberries on the nose and palate, with very well integrated tannins, good length and very, very easy to drink. Also, it ages surprisingly well. I recently found a few bottles of the 2016 hiding in part of the cellar: the fruit had dropped a few degrees, but it was still a highly drinkable and enjoyable wine.

£19.00 - Waitrose - link

3 - Clos Constantin ‘Euziéra’ 2023, AOP Terrasses du Larzac, Languedoc.

Steak and Kidney Pudding. Nose is exquisite: an enticing combination of concentrated red fruits with hints of violets. It grabs your attention and prepares you for the delights that sing when you taste this excellent wine. 50% Syrah, 25% Grenache, and 25% Cinsault. Fresh, slightly left-of-field, unexpected but superbly delicious. There is an abundance of deep, dark fruits, with smooth tannins, a well defined structure, and excellent length. I could drink this all autumn and winter. Also, it will age. Five years from now, perhaps even ten, it will still be delivering a special and very memorable wine. However, it is just great today.

£24.00 - Yapp Brothers - link

4 - Simpsons Rabbit Hole Pinot Noir 2023, Kent, England

Lunch. Goats cheese or quiche. Roast chicken. As one member of the panel tasting these wines said, ‘Is this really from England?’, and that from a long-term Burgundy fan. Delicate Pinot with a light ruby colour. Cherries, raspberries and a touch of oak on the nose. Classic cool climate wine with a touch of unexpected spice on the nose. Freshness has been neatly balanced with a good weight of fruit and an openness that is very appealing. Aged in oak - 80% old and 20% new (75% French and 25% American). Another excellent example of how a small handful of wineries are beginning to produce top quality Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In good vintages Simpsons produce their ‘Q Class’ from these varietals. Hopefully, with the high quality 2025 harvest, we might see these created again over the coming 12 months.

£32.00 - Simpsons Winery - link

5 - Viña Bosconia, Reserva 2014, Bodegas R. López de Heredia, Rioja, Spain

Game. Always slightly in the shadow of Heredia’s flagship Tondonia label, this might be considered ‘under-the-radar’ and exceptional value for money. Heredia own 170 hectares of vines and make their wines exclusively from their own grapes. At the beginning of its long journey, this Bosconia will still be drinking well into the early 2040s. Fermented in old oak vats this blend of 80% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacho and the remaining 5% Graciano and Mazuelo is elegant, refined and immensely drinkable at this point. You could decant it, but just use large glasses and a few swirls will start to release the rich and mature elements of a wine that has been crafted with immense skill.

£36.00 - Berrys - link

6 - Errazuriz, Las Pizarras Pinot Noir 2022, Aconcagua Costa, Chile.

Rump Steak, Bernaise, and Triple-Cooked Fries. Another example of a superbly well-made Pinot Noir from the Pacific Rim. Albeit with the power and weight from a South American blockbuster. There is a lot going on here, and I would decant it about an hour before you consume. Ripe, very rich, concentrated with oodles of dark fruits, brambles, blackcurrants, cherries, and oak. This house knows how to make a crowd pleaser and it will keep for another decade, ageing with strength and fortitude as the flavours intertwine and take on the earthy, mushroomy flavours of aged Pinot Noir. It’s very, very long.

£62.00 - Berrys - link

7 - Château Pontet-Canet 2005, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France.

Christmas Day. Perhaps a present to oneself. If you have a gap in your cellar and want a wine for a celebratory event in 2026, or perhaps next Christmas, then this is an outstanding and truly exceptional wine. With 20 years under its belt, it’s about as good as any 2005 I have tasted recently. Actually, apart from 1st Growths, I think it is the best wine from the Médoc of this vintage. Although only rated as a 5th Growth in the 1855 Classification, it consistently sit alongside the very best 2nd Growths, often surpassing them. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. The price is worth every penny. Everything you could ever want from an aged Claret - finesse, structure and exceptional elegance - sits within this bottle. Buy it In Bond, and pay the Duty and VAT when you need it. Will still be drinking well for another decade, but enjoy it before then.

£1,090 case of 12 bottles - Berrys - ex VAT and Duty - link

Also available in magnums and double magnums

With only a few weeks to go to Christmas, I thought a collection of wines that have stood out over the last few months might be a useful reference to ensure stocks are ordered well in advance.

01 - Le Bois Doré Chenin Blanc 2023, Saumur, Loire, France

Fridge Door. If you need a straightforward wine at a moment’s notice, then having a bottle of this crisp Chenin Blanc permanently sitting in the fridge is a great solution. Easy to consume, bright acidity with light fruit, it is the perfect wine to serve to a neighbour who has just popped in for a chat.

£10.00 - Majestic - six mix - link

02 - Domaine Richeaume ‘Tradition’ Blanc 2024, IGP Méditerranée, France

Aperitif. Blend of 15% Rolle, 15% Viognier, 35% Grenache Blanc and 35% Sauvignon Blanc. Rolle is known as Vermentino in Corsica and Italy. Positioned as one of the pioneers of organic viticulture in Provence, their wines are broadly available from a number of good merchants, but this white only from Yapp. Enjoy with smoked salmon on thinly sliced brown bread, pesto on toasted baguette, or Jamon Iberico.

£21.50 - Yapp - link

03 - Simpsons Derringstone Pinot Meunier, Kent, England

Kitchen Lunch, first course. The Pinot Meunier is one of the three main grape varieties in Champagne. It is also a black grape, yet this is a white wine. A ‘blanc de noirs’ in the true sense of the definition. I first tasted this about five years ago, and immediately thought what an inspiring wine the Simpsons have created. Ruth and Charles are based in Kent, but also have a winery in the South of France. They are making some top-flight wines in England, and their years of knowledge and expertise are seen across their portfolio. Full-bodied, with very good length and structure. A dry richness with very balanced fruit and acidity. Not sure why I haven’t bought more over the years - another New Year’s resolution added to the extensive list. Packaging is also very elegant. If the first course is smoked mackerel, potted shrimps, or a gnocchi dish, then this is an ideal partner.

£25.00 - Simpsons Winery - link

04 - Domaine du Clos des Fées ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Grenache Blanc 2023

Lunch, main course. I cannot fault this wine. It is immensely drinkable, superbly made, and when guests taste it they smile and ask what they are drinking. Very palatable, and glass after glass just continues to flow until another cork needs to be pulled. Needs food as it is fairly rich, but definitely not over-powering. It could be the wine to have in one’s house over the coming months. From the IGP Côtes Catalanes appellation.

£29.95 - Yapp - link

05 - Rippon Mature Vine Riesling 2023, Central Otago, New Zealand

Lunch. Fish, with spices. When serious winemaking began in Central Otago, Rippon shot to the front as a beacon of quality. Their wines are still outstanding, but many other players have entered the patch and there is a collection within this Pacific Rim enclave of very notable producers. The focus is mainly Pinot Noir, but there are a wealth of other varietals being grown, hence this Riesling. Notes of fresh grapefruit, lemons, and mandarins are neatly balanced with a delicate percentage of residual sugar. This gives the wine an essence of floral characteristics that sits well with well seasoned dishes that need just a very, very small lift of ripe fruit. If you have not tried the smoked haddock and leek rarebits recipe from Julius Roberts - link - then if you fell like an savoury bite over lunch, or light supper, then give this recipe a try.

£31.50 - Lea & Sandeman - link

06 - Damascene, Chenin Blanc 2023, Stellenbosch, South Africa

Dinner. Rich veal or chicken. I’ve covered this winery in the past but the latest vintage of this stunning Chenin Blanc needs noting. Apricots, quince, and peach sit alongside crafted and delicate acidity that is rich and full-bodied. Length and texture abound, and the overall impact is mesmerising. You will need several bottles as your guests will let this slide down with pace.

£37.95 - Lea & Sandeman - twelve mix - link

07 - Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées “Clos de la Truffiere” Vieilles Vignes 2022, Domaine Vincent & Francois Jouard

Christmas Day. Flawless White Burgundy. A family-run, 11-hectare estate in Chassagne-Montrachet creating superlative after superlative of utterly delicious Chardonnay. It is young, but the fresh fruit and concentration make it a very desirable wine to consume today. If you buy too much, then it will still be drinking well in 5-10 years. I shall be serving this on 25th December.

£79.00 - Montrachet Wine Merchants - old school ordering via email or phone

Ed Hume-Kendall - ed@montrachetwine.com - 020 7821 1337

08 - Bissoni, Passito 2020 Albana di Romagna, Emilia-Romagna, Italy

Pudding. If there was ever a wine that would sit to perfection alongside the classic Christmas Pudding, then this is it. Rich and intense with pronounced flavours of apricot, mango, honey, oranges and so much more. Mildly over the top? Possibly, but then totally irresistible. It’s great that estates are making wines as whacky as this. Guests may chatter about this one for some time.

£32.50 - half-bottle - Lea & Sandeman - link

Blah

2021 was not the easiest harvest to manage in Bordeaux. Winter was mild and wetter than average, resulting in an early budbreak, and with frost in early April, this hit many vineyards. A poor fruit-set; low temperatures in May slowed down the overall harvest; heavy rainstorms in late June and early July caused rot issues requiring very careful vineyard management. However, August and early September saw warm, dry weather, but with COVID restrictions in play during the harvest this created its own, unique problems. Overall the Bordelais had a tricky year.

However, the Médoc seems to have managed it better than other regions. It is a classic year with a careful balance between fruit, tannins and acidity. Old-fashioned might sum it up rather well with a collection of wines that will be ready for drinking in the not to distant future.

There was a tasting last week of around 80 wines from this vintage at Vintners, and the range covered the entire region. Three reds hit a note, and if you would like some classic Claret in your cellar, and do not want to wait for an eternity before it is ready for drinking, then these are very good Cabernet Sauvignon based wines at a good price. The dry white at the bottom of the page is utterly delicious, but not the least expensive of wines I have recommended recently.

They will be available from many merchants, but I’m coming round to thinking that Justerinis are a very reliable source of Claret from their own ‘Portfolio’ stock. All prices are Duty Paid in VAT.

1 - Château Branaire-Ducru 2021, Saint-Julien

Surprisingly intense on the nose with flavours of plums and dark berries. Very appealing given it still needs a few years before the cork should be pulled. Quite rich and perfumed on the palate. Medium to full bodied. Fleshy and fresh with plenty of acidity, tannins and fruit. A long term item. 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 6.5% Cabernet Franc, and 5.5% Petit Verdot. Drink 2030 to 2040.

£243.96 - 6 x 75cl (£40.66)- Lay & Wheeler - link

2 - Château Léoville Barton 2021, Saint-Julien

This property continues to deliver year after year, at a very competitive price. Graphite and blackcurrant on the nose, with plenty of intensity that needs a bit of time to show its true colours. Elegant and full of finesse, it exudes charm with all the elements in perfect harmony. Drink 2030 onwards until the end of that decade and perhaps beyond. Classic Saint-Julien that will sit perfectly alongside the roast lamb when it comes of age. 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc.

£619.07 - 12 x 75cl (£51.59) - J&B - link

£424.73 - 3 x magnum (£141.58) - J&B - link

3 - Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 2021, Pauillac

Considered by a few critics to be one of the wines of the vintage. Longevity is the word that springs to mind here. The blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot has created a classic Pauillac that has concentration and finesse with a solid backbone of refinement and length. Rich energy and a good definition.Think 2035 onwards and heading towards late 2040s.

£373.54 - 6 x 75cl (£62.26) - J&B - link

4 - Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 2021, Pessac-Léognan

Probably the star of the show. I do not often push White Bordeaux as I generally find it not particularly good value for money alongside White Burgundy. However, this is an exception. There is layer after layer of complexities and nuances here that make this one of the great finds of this year. I agree, £90 on a bottle of white is toppy, but then this is seriously good quality. Tangy, classy, satisfying, long, vibrant, fleshy and delicious. 35% new oak has encased this blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Sémillon for 18 months. If you want an item that is ready for drinking then this is a flawless execution, but allow just a couple of years and you will be deeply impressed. This would work with Dover Sole Meunier, richly and complex chicken dishes, as well as veal in creamy, truffle-laden extravaganzas.

£541.13 - 6 x 75cl (£90.19) - J&B - link

Finding wine to match lightly spied dishes such as Singapore Noodles can be a challenge. Generally, they would not sit comfortably with Chardonnay nor Sauvignon Blanc.

Often Chardonnays contain an element of oak-ageing and this does not work with spicy foods. These toasty flavours do not work with chilli or ginger based dishes as they can taste bitter or heavy alongside them. Also, Chardonnays are often bone dry, and generally you need just a touch of residual sugar to balance chili heat.

Sauvignon Blanc’s characteristically piercing acidity can amplify the heat sensation, making the spice feel even more aggressive and sharp on the palate. The varietal’s notes of gooseberry, green pepper and herbs can seem totally out of sync resulting in flavours that seem metallic, vegetal, or bitter.

Best to avoid both of these varietals with a dish such as Singapore noodles.

Interestingly, it would seem that Singapore Noodles did not originate in Singapore. Almost certainly ‘created’ by Cantonese chefs in Hong Kong who considered using the word ‘Singapore’ added a certain cachet to the dish.

Anyway, wherever they came from, here are three wines that work to perfection:

1 - Cave de Beblenheim Pinot Gris Reserve 2023, Alsace, France

A cooperative founded in 1952 that was formed by 65 families who lived in and around the village of Beblenheim. The colour has a very faint tinge of pink: do not be put off, it is entirely natural for many wines from this varietal. Red apples, ripe pears and a slight touch of honey lift this from the bone dry stable into off-dry. It’s a very easy wine to consume with food that has just a touch of spice. Made to be drunk today. Waitrose web site states 2021, but it is actually the 2023.

£12.00 - Waitrose - Mix and match price - link

2 - Darling Cellars Old Bush Vines Chenin Blanc 2022, South Africa

The cooler climate of the Darling wine region is located on the coast of the Western Cape province of South Africa, about 45 miles north of Cape Town. Rich and fleshy on the nose with flavours of peaches, apricots and fresh apples. The ripe fruit is balanced with good acidity with a touch of oak from 10 months in French barrels. It is full-bodied and would sit very comfortably alongside many spicy dishes. Much dryer than the other two wines here, it would also work to perfection with a rich seafood risotto.

£15.25 - Waitrose - Mix and match price - link

3 - Léon Beyer ‘Réserve Personnelle’ Gewürztraminer 2021, Alsace, France

The house of Leon Beyer has been trading from father to son since 1580, and produce an array of fine quality, well-crafted wines with around 75% being exported.

The Gewürztraminer grape is not grown exclusively in Alsace, but in many ways is synonymous with the region. Fragrant, spicy, with tropical fruits are some of its characteristics and it is produced in many different styles from bone-dry to rich and very sweet.

This is a more refined and much lighter style than many Gewürztraminers. Yes, there is the obvious nose, but it is subtle and certainly not overpowering. The palate is off-dry, with a rich structure and full-bodied that would match many oriental dishes as well as superb with a creamy blue cheese. It’s ready for drinking today, and would work as an aperitif with spicy prawns or a starter of avocado and crab tian with five spice mixed into the crab ‘cocktail’ element.

£21.75 - Yapp - link

With the clock hands having been shifted backwards, momentarily lighter mornings, and teatime dusk, then autumn has definitely arrived. The smell of chimneys whisking out their wood-burning residue, the accumulation of leaves covering lanes and footpaths, and a brisk bite of a chilly wind, all point firmly to a change of season.

So the need for a Cabernet-based red to accompany recently acquired pheasants; the arrival of steak and kidney needing a robust and rich Rhône-style solution for supper; and perhaps a straightforward white to sit alongside the spicy soups that lift lunch into another league now that salad recipes have been put away until next year.

This missive looks at new vintages from two old favourites, assesses a new agency that Yapp Brothers has acquired, and an absolute bargain of a Petit Chablis from Waitrose.

1 - Moss Wood Amy’s Blend 2022, Margaret River, Australia.

This iconic and internationally renowned winery produces an array of wines from consistently reliable entry-level creations to top flight Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignons. This wine at less than £20 is delivering a very refined, subtle and superbly balanced wine. 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 7% Malbec, and 5% Petit Verdot. The light fragrance of blackcurrants on the nose is accompanied with a delicate and refined offering with fruit, tannins and acidity all in balance. Blueberries and blackcurrants settle on the palate with a touch of oak, and a medium finish. It is a very well-made package.

£18.50 - Waitrose - link

2 - Rustenberg John X Merriman 2022, Stellenbosch, South Africa.

I’ve recommended this wine many times the past and the 2022 vintage is now on the shelves. It delivers in spades and at this price it is always exceptional value for money. Richer, fruiter with a bit more bite than Amy’s Blend. 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 1% Malbec. Classic blackberries on the nose and palate, with very well integrated tannins, good length and very, very easy to drink. Also, it ages surprisingly well. I recently found a few bottles of the 2016 hiding in part of the cellar: the fruit had dropped a few degrees, but it was still a highly drinkable and enjoyable wine.

£18.00 - Waitrose - link

Yapp Brothers built their formidable reputation on finding wines from the Rhône and Southern France. That has not stopped as this new agency - Clos Constantin - is a great find. Based in the French wine appellation of Terrasses du Larzac - given AOC status in 2014 - the region sits to the northwest of Montpellier. Vines are planted on limestone-clay soils with a good diurnal range as the height of 230m: provides perfect daytime Mediterranean heat with the evening coolness of altitude. The winery was established in 2017 by Pierre Halley and Samuel Durand.

Both wines are made from combinations of the classic Southern Rhône varietals: Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault. Ten years ago value from these varietals lay in the satellite villages of Gigondas and Vacqueyras that sat along the road from their more illustrious cousin, Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Today, you have to head a tad further south to find wines that are excellent but sit under the £30-mark. If you like that pronounced spiciness of the Grenache, that works to perfection alongside the other varietals listed above, then search no further than these two from Larzac.

Think of a Nigella beef stew with port and chestnuts; a cassoulet brimming with deeply rich pork; or Yorkshires laden with horseradish and gravy alongside a few slices of a perfectly cooked roast.

3 - Clos Constantin ‘Euziéra’ 2023, AOP Terrasses du Larzac, Languedoc.

Nose is exquisite: an enticing combination of concentrated red fruits with hints of violets. It grabs your attention and prepares you for the delights that sing when you taste this excellent wine. 50% Syrah, 25% Grenache, and 25% Cinsault. Fresh, slightly left-of-field, unexpected but superbly delicious. There is an abundance of deep red fruits, with smooth tannins, a well defined structure, and excellent length. I could drink this all autumn and winter. Also, it will age. Five years from now, perhaps even ten, it will still be delivering a special and very memorable wine. However, it is just great today.

£24.00 - Yapp Brothers - link

4 - Clos Constantin ‘Arjiès’ 2023, AOP Terrasses du Larzac, Languedoc.

Same varieties, older vines, a touch of oak rather than just concrete eggs. Darker with more concentration and extraction. Just as sensational but if one drinks ‘Euziéra’ today, then this ‘Arjiès’ needs a couple of years in the cellar. Although serving them side-by-side, was a rather enjoyable experience as they both evolved and changed in the glass over supper. Generously laden with plums, berries, silky tannins with a large notice saying ‘drink me’. Stunning. Buy today and drink from 2028. If you do buy them both, then do open one of each over lunch or supper with a few friends. They will be very impressed and one bottle of each might not be enough.

£29.00 - Yapp Brothers - link

5 - Domaine Seguinot-Bordet Petit Chablis 2022, Burgundy, France.

At sub-£20, this is not a show-stopper, but it is a very honest Chablis. Light, good refreshing acidity, distinct fruit, medium length. If lunch is a bowl of pumpkin soup, elaborate sandwich, or a touch of smoked trout, then this really works very well.

£15.50 - Waitrose until 28-Oct-25 - link - then back to £18.50.

If a mild stimulation is required to develop an appetite, then during the autumn months what could be better than a Palo Cortado Sherry?

This ‘hybrid’ of a drink that has the dry, bright acidity and finesse of a fino or amontillado, combined with the nutty, dried fruit and spicy aromas of an oloroso, to create a wine with immense depth, richness and complexity.

Alongside some olives, hazelnuts, Manchego, and walnut infused salchichón, is there a better way to prepare the palate for a feast ahead?

Barbadillo Palo Cortado Criadera Selection ‘En Rama’

The house of Barbadillo started trading in 1821 and is a large commercial concern producing around 6m bottles of Spanish wine every year. However, amongst that volume they are considered to be a Palo Cortado specialist, often producing less than 1,000 bottles of the Criadera Selection.

The ‘En Rama’ designation is a definition that produces a wine as naturally and authentically as possible: a minimal-intervention approach that tries to capture how the wine tastes straight from the barrel.

Deep amber colour, almost the tone of mahogany. Great depth and complexity on the nose with an abundance of dried, spicy fruits, almonds, and toffee with a hint of orange. Layer after layer on the palate, that sits and sits. Concentration, depth, and perfect balance between salinity, roasted nuts, smoked fruits, citrus and old oak. There is more refinement in this Palo Cortado than wines from other bodegas. It is a rich concoction by any standards, but there is a delicacy and a sense that a considerable amount of work has been deployed to create this excellent wine.

£25.50 - Brindisa

On the site of an old pub now sits great food, excellent service, a really spacious environment with a superbly crafted wine list. Calling The Prince Arthur a gastro-pub does not really do it justice. Yes, there are acres of space as you enter as you might have expected in a busy boozer, with the old bar directly ahead of you that could be filled with teams handling pints, caressing glasses of wine, sipping cocktails and devouring a few bar snacks. But it is so much more.

As you enter the dining area you cannot miss the iced seafood counter, laden with lobster, langoustine, oysters, and a host of other goodies. It takes up a significant proportion of what would have been the old pub bar and makes a statement about the food that lies ahead.

The Basque-born chef, Adam Iglesias, has weaved his mastery to create a small array of dishes that hits the mark and makes selection a tricky task. In essence you want to try them all. Given the relatively small menu, if your were on a team outing, then you probably could cover a significant amount of the selection. He has been at Alameda in San Sebastián and in London at Brat, Barrafina, and Sessions Arts Club. He definitely knows what he is doing.

However, I was dining with a friend. Our perfectly trained waitress eagerly explained what would work in terms of volume and we settled in for eel, beetroot salad, and bluefin tartare as starters. I’d go back every day just for the tartare. The other two dishes were delicious, but this tuna reached another level. For the main course we shared a lobster risotto with a few sides. We both smiled. It was simply exquisite cooking. Then the cheesecake. Worth a revisit to repeat the exact order.

Some important details. The tables are large and spaced a good distance apart. You could be having a discrete meeting and there is no fear of worrying that the next door table can easily hear your discussions.

The wine list has a dominant Spanish focus, but it admirably covers France and other European countries as well as good selection from the New World. The Garnacha Blanca, Massipa de Scala Dei from Priorat was a delightful find.

The price will vary depending on how you split your meal between the pintxos, small plates, raw fish, caviar, and main courses. Roughly £70 per head for three courses excluding service and drinks.

The Prince Arthur - 11 Pimlico Road, London SW1, 020-3098 6060.

Blah