With September being the harbinger for the return of native oysters to our tables, as well as the peak season for brown crab, Mylor prawns and brown shrimps, you need a white wine to perfectly match these maritime delicacies.

Eight wines from France, Chile, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa were assembled for a panel tasting comprising of a broad selection of grapes: Semillon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, and Picpoul.

1 - Domaine Gaujal, Picpoul de Pinet 2025

Zesty and immensely drinkable. Bright, lively acidity with a fresh, energetic character that reminds you of citrus peel. But so much more. Fruity cherries arrive on the palate after the nose hints at lemons and peaches. Aromatic with a good length that delivers ripe pears on the finish. More has been ordered to sit in the fridge for the months ahead when fish is being served. Domaine Gaujal is a small, family-run estate with 25 hectares near Montpellier.

In the last ten years, Picpoul has transformed from a little-known grape into a sought-after white wine. The secret to Picpoul de Pinet’s popularity lies in its bright citrus and sea-breeze flavours, wallet-friendly price, and effortless pairing with seafood. Its lively, open character perfectly suits the rising appetite for lighter, unoaked whites.

£15.95 - Yapp - merchant link

2 - Château de Rochemorin 2023, Pessac-Leognan

A classic Sauvignon Blanc from Bordeaux. Smooth, serene, delicate with very balanced flavours of lemon and grapefruit sitting astride sufficient body, texture and balance to accompany a Dover sole meunière with aplomb. Old school and a delight to find a property making a wine of this quality for a sensible price.

£18.00 - Waitrose - on offer until 01-Sep - merchant link

3 - Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2025

Either my memory has faded, or Cloudy Bay has changed the formula for this wine. Admittedly, it is a couple of years since I last sampled this iconic New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, but this was surprisingly good. Aromatic fun with bucket loads of zest on the palate combining flavours of passion fruit, grapefruit, taut lemons, and pineapple. There is so much in the glass that shellfish might be overwhelmed here. A very well crafted, rustic tapenade combining finely chopped sun-dried tomatoes with capers, olives, basil, garlic and olive oil perched on toasted sourdough would be perfect. Waitrose have this on offer, but it is widely available from many sources.

£19.87 - Waitorse - on offer until 01-Sep - merchant link

With the Bank Holiday weekend approaching, what better way to welcome family and friends as they head to your dwelling than with a finely made, gin-based cocktail to lift the spirits and start the festivities with a certain gusto.

While the Dry Martini is the classic option, I find myself drawn to the Vesper: a bold, bracing gin-and-vodka creation dreamed up by Ian Fleming for James Bond in Casino Royale. To make one, pour 75 ml gin, 25 ml vodka, and 12.5 ml Lillet Blanc (today’s stand-in for Kina Lillet) into a shaker packed with ice. Shake with energy for 10 to 15 seconds until the mixture is icy cold, then strain into a frosty Martini or coupe glass. For the finishing touch, twist a long, thin strip of lemon peel over the drink to release its bright citrus aroma, then drop it in. And, of course, Fleming’s instruction: “shaken and not stirred.”

Having sampled a number of gins recently, the key for a cocktail gin is intensity and balance: it should complement other ingredients without disappearing behind them. A premium, juniper-forward gin works particularly well because its botanical intensity remains apparent alongside the other components. A final four make up the selection below.

1 - Berry Bros. & Rudd London Dry Gin

The classic starting point. This is not Berrys No. 3, but their London Gin distilled in London by Thames Distillers rather than the No. 3 that is distilled in Holland by De Kuyper Royal Distillers. It is a flawless distillation that also makes a perfect G&T.

£31.50 - Berrys -merchant link

2 - Isle of Raasay Gin, Inner Hebrides

A strong and richly defined gin with a pronounced juniper and citrus base that is very appealing. Well-defined botanicals with obvious lemon and orange, coriander, pepper, rhubarb, and an almost pine needle element. Quite earthy but immensely drinkable. They have their own take on a Vesper: 50ml Isle of Raasay Gin, 12.5ml Lillet, twist of orange with plenty of ice.

£40.00 - Isle of Raasay Distillery - distillery link

3 - Roku Gin, Japan

There is a delicate, aromatic quality to this gin. It combines eight traditional gin botanicals with six Japanese botanicals: sakura flower, sakura leaf, yuzu peel, Sencha tea, Gyokuro tea and Sansho pepper. The result is floral and citrus-led, with a silky texture and a distinctive peppery finish. For a Vesper, Roku is a good choice if you want an elegant, citrusy, slightly floral interpretation. A lunch-time cocktail rather than the pre-dinner option.

£25.50 - Waitrose -merchant link

4 - Procera Blue Dot Gin 2023, Kenya

This is delicious just by itself. Perhaps a touch of water with a drop or two of Angostura Orange Bitters. Exceptionally well made and one of the finest gins I have ever tasted. Available from many outlets, including the Berrys’ link below.

Procera Blue Dot Gin stands out as a cocktail gin, its vibrant bouquet of botanicals shining through in any mix. Crafted in Nairobi, Kenya, it demonstrates the unique component of using fresh African juniper, delivering lively notes of pine, citrus, and herbs. With a robust 44% ABV, this gin holds its own against vermouth, citrus, bitters, and dilution, never losing its character. Its crisp texture, intense aromatics, and lingering peppery finish make it a star in timeless cocktails.

£83.00 - Berrys -merchant link

Separate missive on Negonis to follow over the coming weeks …

In 1453, the French at last drove the English from south-west France at the Battle of Castillon, bringing the long and bitter Hundred Years’ War to a close. England had first gained this prized region when Henry Plantagenet wed Eleanor of Aquitaine in 1152, claiming it as part of her dowry.

It is slightly misleading to state that England owned Aquitaine, as technically Eleanor owned Aquitaine as a duchy, and through her marriage Henry acquired the right to rule it. When Henry became king of England in 1154, the English monarch therefore ruled Aquitaine, but Aquitaine remained legally a separate duchy with its own institutions.

This union gave rise to what historians call the Angevin Empire, a patchwork of lands ruled by the English king that stretched from the green fields of England deep into the heart of France. But let us set these tangled affairs aside for now; I promise to revisit them in a future missive.

In the past ten years, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux has emerged as a hidden gem for those seeking exceptional Bordeaux without the hefty price tag. After sharing my thoughts on Domaine de l’A on 3rd July, I felt compelled to delve deeper into the treasures this appellation has to offer.

Nestled just east of Saint-Émilion, this region boasts vineyard prices a fraction of its famous neighbour, yet shares the same rich soils and rolling terrain. Here, the Libournais plateau is sculpted by rivers and streams into limestone and clay, but Castillon stands apart with its wilder, more dramatic hills and valleys.

Merlot reigns supreme here, lending Castillon wines a vibrancy and freshness that set them apart from their western cousins. While some bottles can lean toward rusticity, the five tasted defied that assessment with their polished character.

The panel tasting consisted of two vintages of Château Montlandrie, 2018 and 2012, and three vintages of Domaine de l’Aurage, 2012, 2022, and 2023. It would be fair to say that we all agreed that we’d be happy to serve any of these wines at home for lunch or dinner.

However, there was an outright winner, by a considerable margin: l’Aurage 2022.

Domaine de l’Aurage 2022

The nose gives it away. Plump, rich black plums, boysenberries, and blackberries make for an enticing start to savouring this opulently crafted wine. The palate touches on the theatrical, with a deep concentration of finely crafted black and red fruits, wild dark berries, toasted new oak, and chocolate, with round, stylised tannins that create a harmonious crescendo of complex flavours and a divine structure that just wants to be consumed energetically. It will age superbly, but drinking it today is an absolute delight. 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. A flawless example of why this region deserves attention: an age-worthy wine at a comparatively accessible price.

£37.50 bottles or £78.50 magnums - Corney & Barrow - merchant link

Why are the shallots the main image? There is a dish - Entrecôte à la Bordelaise - that comprises a red wine and shallot sauce - in essence a reduction. This dish is all about the deep, velvety red wine and shallot sauce that crowns the steak. Traditionally, it is served with crisp pommes frites, though golden pommes sautées, creamy gratin dauphinois, or silky mashed potatoes are just as tempting. For a burst of freshness, green beans or a lightly dressed salad cut through the sauce’s richness. Of course, a perfect match with a glass or three of Castillon.

Cabernet Franc has always been a perfect summer wine when slightly chilled, at 12–16°C. When the sun is shining, the coolness of this variety can accentuate its raspberry, cherry, redcurrant, and blackberry flavours, making them vivid and precise. It subtly reduces the perception of alcohol and the warmth it generates, creating an aura of softness, making the wine feel lighter and better balanced.

With its typical moderate alcohol, lively acidity and ripe fruits, the resulting wine takes on the mantle of an uplifted and refreshing accompaniment to poached salmon, aubergine parmigiana, chicken Caesar salads, or a tomato and burrata salad with lashings of extra virgin olive oil.

Cabernet Franc thrives in the Loire Valley because its cool, temperate climate suits the grape’s relatively early ripening, and moderate rainfall provides sufficient water. At the same time, well-drained soils prevent waterlogging - well, most summers but perhaps not in 2026. The gradual ripening of this northerly location allows these grapes to develop aromas of red fruit, violets, herbs, and pepper while retaining its naturally high acidity. As a result, Loire Cabernet Franc typically produces elegant, fresh, medium-bodied wines with vibrant fruit and distinctive earthy or herbal character.

A collection of Loire reds was acquired from Lea & Sandeman, a small panel assembled over dinner, and, with absolute clarity, a red from the appellation of Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil was chosen as the clear favourite.

Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil ‘La Mime’ 2022, Domaine Yannick Amirault

Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil is an excellent location for Cabernet Franc because its cool, temperate climate suits the grape’s early-to-medium ripening. The area benefits from sandy, gravelly and clay-rich soils alongside the Loire River, which moderates temperatures and reduces extremes, helping the grapes retain their natural acidity while developing ripe black- and red-fruit flavours.

Around one-third of this domaine’s 20 hectares are within the Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil appellation. Focusing their attention on an organic approach over the last few decades, the estate was pioneering in this region for taking this route. Very much a father and son operation, they consistently produce high quality wines. ‘La Mine’ vineyard consists of a plot of clay gravel containing 45 year-old vines, providing an intensity from this climatically excellent vintage.

Punchy, almost earthy on the nose, it takes a few moments to wake up and deliver a richly leathery aroma, with smokey tones alongside velvety dark berries. The palate is finely balanced with tannins, darkly layered fruits, and delicate acidity all competing for your attention. The slightly chilled arena sets it all off with good length and a generous structure and concentration. Will certainly keep into the early 2030s.

£22.95 - Lea & Sandeman - merchant link

In places such as Castelnaudary, Carcassonne, and Toulouse, Cassoulet is not regarded as exclusively a winter dish.

However, let’s also consider Daube Provençale, Petits Farcis, Gardiane de Taureau, or Tomates Farcies as other meat-based, robust and full-flavoured dishes for summer dining as alternatives.

Returning to the idea of a cassoulet, a crisp green salad tossed in a lively Dijon mustard vinaigrette is a timeless companion. Its tangy bite slices through the decadent flavours of duck confit, pork and beans. When tomatoes are at their peak, a salad of juicy tomatoes, fragrant basil, shallots and a splash of sherry vinegar brings a burst of summer to the table. For vegetables, smoky-grilled courgettes, peppers, and aubergines, or tender haricots verts dressed with just a hint of oil, add brightness without stealing the spotlight. And do not forget a basket of rustic sourdough or French country bread, perfect for soaking up every last drop of those savoury juices.

The options seem very appealing.

Cassoulet was born in the sun-drenched Languedoc region of south-western France, its name inspired by the humble cassole, the clay pot that cradles it through hours of slow cooking. What began as a rustic peasant meal—white beans mingling with savoury preserved meats like pork, duck confit, and sausage—has grown into a legend.

Some say its origins trace back to the Hundred Years’ War, when the people of Castelnaudary stirred up a robust stew to nourish soldiers under siege. Yet, this tale is more myth than fact, since the white haricot beans that define cassoulet today only arrived from the Americas in the sixteenth century, replacing the broad beans of old.

Currently, the towns of Castelnaudary, Carcassonne, and Toulouse each claim to produce the most authentic version of cassoulet, distinguished by their unique selections of meats. By the nineteenth century, cassoulet had become widely recognised throughout France as a symbol of slow-cooked tradition, regional abundance, and the rich culinary soul of Occitanie.

Of course, you would need a wine from the region to accompany such a supper. Six wines were ordered from Yapp, as the specialist in this region, and three were excellent examples. These wines would also perfectly match beef with a rich green pepper sauce, or any other meat dish from the barbecue this summer.

1 - Saint-Chinian: Château Milhau-Lacugue ‘Cuvée Magali’ 2023

The property has a history stretching back to Roman times, with around 60 hectares under vine across this farming estate. Grenache Noir dominates with around 57%, and the remaining balance consists of Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault. Given the price, it is a great wine with bundles of ripe fruit, and this entry-level ‘Cuvée Magli’ from the 2023 vintage is immensely quaffable, drinking really, really well and will work with any red meat dish that you might be serving. Deep colour, cherries and black fruit on the nose, and a commanding structure of accessible flavours, balanced tannins and acidity with a very good finish. It is a few pounds more than many generic ‘Côtes du Rhône brands’ and is an uplift in quality that more than justifies the extra cost.

£15.75 - Yapp - merchant link

2 - Faugères: Château Estanilles ‘Vallongue’ Rouge 2023

The next two recommendations come from the same estate. The appellation of Faugères sits in the Languedoc region, in the hills of the Hérault department.

This is their ‘entry-level’ red, and this vintage contains 45% Syrah, 35% Grenache, 15% Carignan and 5% Mourvèdre. Delicious from the moment you place your nose in the glass, and will age wonderfully into the early 2030s. No shrinking violet here, but a well-honed brew that has seen a few hours in the gym and has come out fighting. Ripe fruits, perfectly balanced with finely-tuned tannins and almost a smooth, espresso flavour on the finish. At any time of the year, if something hearty is being prepared for a lunch or supper, then this is a delightful wine that is outstanding value.

£18.25 - Yapp - merchant link

3 - Faugères: Château Estanilles ‘Clos du Fou’ Rouge 2021

Apparently, they only made 200 cases of this wine. Buy immediately to avoid disappointment would be my advice. Apologies for rattling on about value, but put this alongside a very good Châteauneuf-du-Pape and it would win hands down. The blend is 95% Syrah and 5% Grenache, and it shows significant aplomb, with a precise focus on delivering rich flavours of blackberries, violets, herby spices, cassis, and exquisite length, texture, and body. It already has five years under its belt, and will continue to evolve for at least another decade. If you enjoy wines from the Southern Rhône, then indulge in a case or two while Yapp still has stock.

£29.95 - Yapp - merchant link

Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) is one of the world’s most ancient vegetables, with roots that reach deep into history.

It once grew wild across Europe, western Asia and North Africa, before making its way into the heart of gardens and kitchens. Ancient Egyptians treasured asparagus as early as 3000 BCE, and the Greeks celebrated its reputation for healing.

The Romans elevated asparagus to luxury status, cultivating it widely and carefully documenting their secrets for growing, preserving, and cooking it. After Rome’s decline, asparagus lingered in quiet monastery gardens, waiting to reclaim the spotlight during the Renaissance.

Louis XIV transformed asparagus into a royal delicacy, elevating its status at the French court. Eager for fresh spears beyond spring, he tasked the Versailles garden director with perfecting its cultivation. Ingenious techniques like heated beds of fermenting manure, glass cloches and sheltered walls coaxed early and abundant harvests. The triumph of the Potager du Roi, which produced asparagus and other fruits out of season, sparked a horticultural revolution among French aristocrats and secured asparagus’ place as a symbol of prestige.

Nutritionally, asparagus is a powerhouse: low in calories yet brimming with dietary fibre, folate, and vitamins A, C, E, and K. It delivers potassium and potent antioxidants like glutathione, which shield cells from harm. Its abundant water and fibre support digestion, while folate fuels healthy cell growth.

Such a wonderful vegetable needs a suitable white wine to accompany it.

Asparagus has a reputation for being a tricky companion at the wine table. Its sulphur compounds and green, chlorophyll-driven flavours can make oaky or sharply acidic wines taste oddly metallic or bitter. The best matches are wines with gentle acidity, a generous texture, and perhaps just a whisper of oak.

A white Rhône, especially from Saint-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage, Saint-Péray, or a southern Rhône blend of Marsanne, Roussanne, and Viognier, brings lush stone-fruit flavours, gentle floral scents, and a smooth, rounded texture that flatters asparagus while letting its subtlety shine. These wines often carry delicate herbal notes reminiscent of asparagus, sidestepping the bold green notes that might overpower the dish.

A panel was assembled, and a tasting ensued. Three white Côtes du Rhônes priced from £14.95 to £28.00, were pitted alongside two whites from the Northern Rhône appellation of Saint-Joseph, priced £31.50 and £36.50.

The two least expensive wines were unanimously voted the preferred options as we munched away on a selection of asparagus, various houmous-related dishes, saucisson, and prawns: pre-supper nibbles.

1 - Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Colline 2025 - Domaine la Cabotte
A family-run estate, acquired in 1981, located in the Southern Rhône close to the village of Mondragon, about 10 miles north of Orange. This is a blend of Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Viognier and Roussanne, with the nose revealing flavours of white peaches, apricots and ripe red apples. On the palate, there is a creamy texture with an underlying precision of ripe fruit perfectly balanced with refreshing acidity. It is a flawless example of a wine that is ready to drink today and would enhance asparagus as well as sit very comfortably with Coronation Chicken, Hake in a white wine sauce, and Vitello Tonnato.
£14.95 - Berrys - merchant link

2 - Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Le Temps Est Venu 2024 - Stéphane Ogier
I’ve written about this estate before and can only continue to praise what is being achieved here. Most of the estate lies in the Northern Rhône in the village of Côte-Rôtie - certainly worth a visit to this very modern winery if you are in this part of France - and Stéphane makes a red and a white under Le Temps Est Venu label from parcels of land owned in the Southern Rhône. Dominated by Grenache Blanc (60%), with a collection of other varieties to make the final blend: Roussanne (20%), Marsanne (5%), Viognier (5%), Bourboulenc (5%), Clairette (5%). Perfectly balanced and exceptional value. Light touch of honeysuckle on the nose with a hint of citrus. Stone fruits on the palate, with lemon tones mingled in with delicate acidity and a perfect finish. Richer than the Cabotte above and therefore more food-focused than an aperitif wine.
£16.25 - Berry - merchant link

Climate change is rewriting the story of Chardonnay in Germany. Once a fringe player in the vineyards due to the country’s brisk climate, Chardonnay now stands among Germany’s most rapidly rising premium white grapes.

Warmer average temperatures have stretched the growing season and nudged key milestones like budburst, flowering and harvest forward. As an early-budding, early-ripening grape, Chardonnay now ripens with a reliability that was rare thirty years ago, yielding wines with richer fruit flavours and fuller body.

In sum, climate change has turned Germany into a promising home for top-tier Chardonnay, elevating it from a niche experiment to a star among premium grapes. Yet, the future of German Chardonnay hinges on how well growers can navigate the wild swings of weather, from sudden frosts to drought, heatwaves and heavy rains.

Visiting a number of estates in Germany a couple of months ago, there is one that stood out with a wine that lovers of Chablis might find a very enjoyable as well as being an exceptional value item.

Dautel is a family that can trace its roots in wine back over 25 generations. Located in Württemberg, this region is Germany’s fourth-largest wine region, it is a rural, hilly region adjacent to Baden and south of Franken. Riesling is the dominant variety, but Christian Dautel, the current head of the family and the winemaker, has ambitions to experiment.

Over dinner at the winery we tasted 22 wines. They were all very good or outstanding. There are only a handful of estates that I have visited over the decades that had such a strong range across everything that was served. Amongst that deliciously tempting array was a Chardonnay sold by Ripley Wines in the UK for £27.45 from the 2021 vintage. The weather during the middle of 2021 did not look good. However, September was near perfect, and the grapes reached excellent levels of ripeness ahead of the harvest.

The nearly five years since the harvest has allowed this wine to integrate and all the flavours work in perfect harmony. Green apple, melon and citrus fruits sit comfortably on the palate. Light fragrances from the cool climate conditions, nothing too obvious: delicate and subtle. The palate is alive with hints of lemon and grapefruit, light touches of minerality, a hint of oak, spicy on the mid-tongue, nutty flavours. Refinement, not showy, a glass to enjoy by itself or alongside cold poached salmon this summer. Certainly a wine that surprises guests when you inform them it comes from Germany.

2021 Sonnenberg Chardonnay, Weingut Dautel
£27.44 - Ripley Wines - merchant link

Chardonnay is not the only varietal to seen a change in fortune: consistent, high quality Pinot Noir is also a winner. More research needed.

Building on an earlier missive in which I had included the 2025 from Domaine de l’A as a very good value En Primeur purchase and noted that Berrys had a collection of older vintages, I acquired two that are available for sale by the bottle: 2019 and 2022.

Located in the Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux appellation (formerly known as Côtes de Castillon), the region stands out as one of Bordeaux’s rising stars, blending remarkable terroir, a gentle climate, mature vineyards, and impressive value. Nestled just east of Saint-Émilion, it boasts the same prized geological traits as Bordeaux’s elite estates, yet offers them at a much more accessible price.

The limestone and clay soils mirror those of nearby Saint-Émilion, with limestone lending both freshness and depth through its drainage and water-holding abilities, while clay nurtures the Merlot grape to perfection. The landscape’s rolling, sun-drenched slopes capture every ray of sunlight, enhancing ripeness and keeping vines healthy. The slightly warmer climate inland ensures grapes reach full maturity without losing their lively acidity. With top Bordeaux producers investing in the region and a focus on low yields, old vines, and cutting-edge viticulture, Castillon now crafts wines of remarkable concentration, elegance, and longevity.

The result is wines brimming with richness, vibrant freshness, and lingering mineral complexity, all while offering superb ageing potential and remarkable quality for their price.

In 1999, world-renowned consultant Stèphane Derenoncourt and his wife, Christine, began their journey with just 2.5 hectares in Sainte-Colombe, nestled in the Côtes de Castillon. Today, their domaine stretches across 11 hectares, scattered among parcels that bask on a sunlit, south-facing slope of tuffeau limestone. Merlot (70%) and Cabernet Franc (30%) make up the plantings, with an average age of 55 years. Low yields are a hallmark of the property.

The wines were tasted alongside a number of other similarly priced Clarets from the multiples, and they both performed well in terms of value for money. However, 2022 is definitely the one to buy.

The vintage was not straightforward. Winter arrived cool and dry, a pattern that lingered as spring slowly warmed, setting the stage for an early, vibrant budburst and a flourish of blossoms. April’s frosts struck with their usual bite, but luck was on the growers’ side, sparing most of the tender new shoots. June unleashed fierce hailstorms that slashed yields, and as the battered vines recovered, relentless heat and drought took hold. By July, the land was thirstier than it had been in decades.

From July, rain vanished almost entirely, replaced by searing heatwaves that scorched the vineyards. While the sun coaxed rich ripeness from the grapes, the relentless drought posed a daunting challenge. With the mercury soaring to 40 degrees Celsius and no respite in sight, growers leaned on their oldest, most resilient vines to draw water from deep within the earth. Despite these problems, this region succeeded in combining the appellation’s characteristic freshness and mineral structure with exceptional fruit concentration and ripe tannins.

If you are cooking lamb this summer, this would work perfectly. Barbecued lamb reigns as the star of summer, its luscious fat sizzling and melting over open flames, forming a smoky, caramelised crust that locks in every drop of juiciness. When tossed with zesty Mediterranean herbs, garlic, mint and tomatoes, each bite bursts with bold, sun-soaked flavours perfect for those long lunches.

The wine is young and will certainly develop, but it tastes delicious today and could simply be described as a rather classic Claret. Deeply concentrated colour, with lively black and blue fruits on the nose, a touch of herb, and certainly a willing charm emerges. Bold, fleshy, confident with ample richness, body and unquestionable style. New oak sits comfortably amongst the refined tannins, deep fruit, and perfectly balanced acidity. The length is excellent. At this price, not a tricky decision. It will age into the early 2030s, but it’s so good today; why wait? You might decant it an hour before serving to let it open up a tad.

Domaine de l’A 2022 - £27.00 - Berrys - merchant link

You might feel that a sparkling wine that is already thirteen years old probably does not need further time in your cellar. Having tasted Exton Park’s Blanc de Blancs 2013 last week, I will be keeping the bottles I have now acquired in my cellar until 2033, possibly a little longer.

Exton Park is a unique estate. The winery is perched on a hill, commanding a position within the South Downs National Park. Their 60 acres of vines spread out from the summit on a gentle slope towards the local village. They only make wine from their own grapes.

Their vineyard director, Fred Langdale, and winemaker, Corinne Seely, are a formidable team. They have both been here for many years: understand the land, understand the wines they wish to create, and work in sync to deliver refined elegance.

I have watched this estate grow over the last decade, buying six bottles here and there, always considering that their unique style needed time to show its full potential. They all possess a structured concentration that sits alongside a precise, finely-tuned level of acidity that is both complex and exciting in equal measure. For my palate, this additional component of longer cork ageing creates further development, enhancing notes of brioche, hazelnuts, and dried fruits, and evolving into a richer wine with amplified complexity.

This 2013 Blanc de Blancs is no exception. 100% Chardonnay that came from the first 20 rows of their oldest vines. Vivid tones on the nose create a sense of anticipation, reminiscent of salty sea winds, wet stones, baked bread, and citrus fruits. The palate grabs your attention. A tightness, a pronounced freshness, tension brimming with energy, and focused precision. Tasting it with a Japanese Wagyu Crossbread Sirloin was a perfect marriage. You need weight here, and a concentrated mushroom risotto would also work superbly. Buy and forget about for at least 5 years.

£65.00 - Exton Park - winery link

A few weeks ago, on 6th June, I promised a small selection of recommendations from the 2025 Bordeaux En Primeur campaign that, having tasted many, I thought were worth adding to your cellars.

2025 was one of those rare occasions when Bordeaux produced excellent quality wines from a tiny crop. Overall, the quality was superb, and it is certainly worth buying from the list below. All prices below are from Berrys, for 6 bottles, and these wines are widely available from the usual suspects, apart from the first wine, Domaine de l’A, which seems to be an exclusive to the team at the lower end of St James’s Street.

1 - Domaine de l’A
Castillon - Côtes de Bordeaux
This was a wine I had never tasted before, and apart from this vintage, I can find no trace of it. However, I believe Berrys have been bringing it in for a few years, and they have vintages going back to 2015. At an En Primeur price of £20 per bottle, it will arrive at your door with Duty, VAT, and Delivery for under £30. That’s really good value. A blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc, it will start showing from the early 2030s and sit well for the remainder of the decade. Perhaps even a little longer. The earlier vintages that Berrys have in stock need further investigation - a future missive.
£120.00 - only Berrys

2 - Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste
Pauillac
A blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, this stood out in the £200-£300 category. Really great concentration with excellent length, fruit, tannins, and acidity. Drink from 2035 until early 2040s. Not a long-term option, but it will provide good drinking in the medium term.
£228.00

3 - Château Léoville-Barton
St-Julien
Consistently the best value in the Médoc? Yes, I think it is, and this vintage is no exception. The Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated blend, 86%, with 12% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc, is classic St-Julien with a drinking window from 2035 until the late 2040s.
£318.00

4 - Château Haut-Bailly
Pessac-Léognan
This really shone alongside the other Graves properties. The relatively new owners have certainly invested extensively, and it has paid off. Will come round a tad quicker than the two wines above from the Médoc: start pulling bottles out of the cellar from 2030 and enjoy for a decade. Bundles of flavours in a long finish.
£384.00

5 - Château Calon Ségur
St-Estèphe
An energetic, densely packed wine with oodles of structure, length, complexity, and power. Probably best to plan to drink in the early 2040s and consider finishing the last of your stock in the early 2050s. Perfectly crafted and will provide an excellent dinner-party wine for the long term.
£408.00

6 - Cos d’Estournel
St-Estèphe
Another one from this northern appellation. They do keep getting it right here. Elegant and generous, the 50% new oak lifts the wine very comfortably into a wine that should be in your cellar. As with the Calon above, there is no need to dash for the corkscrew, as this will definitely pay sitting in the cellar for many years.
£522.00

7 - Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
Pauillac
Tasting the 2015 and 2016 with Nicolas Glumineau - the winemaker from this property - a month ago over dinner, it was a perfect opportunity to discuss his influence on this Second Growth since his arrival in 2012. There is always immense depth in his wines, and this will probably be regarded as one of the most impressive wines from this year. Expressive and very silky.
£606.00

8 - Château Conseillante
Pomerol
Not sure where to start with this wine: it was simply delicious today. An abundance of ripe, richly concentrated fruit, excellent and fine tannins, with perfectly balanced acidity. The 70% new oak has had a very positive impact on the blend of 87% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Yes, it is young; give it at least a decade, and it will yield an unforgettable experience over the next 20 years. Start your introduction to this wine from 2035.
£846.00

9 - Château Suduiraut
Sauternes
If you need a pudding wine, then this is the one to buy. Wonderful concentrations today, but how will it evolve and wow many a lunch or dinner in the future. It will merge quickly, start pulling corks from 2030, and keep on repeating the exercise until the late 2040s, probably the early 2050s. Ask your merchant to have it delivered in half-bottles.
£246.00

Could there be anything more quintessentially English than attending Henley Royal Regatta? If your travels take you in that direction, then a perfectly executed English Sparkling Rosé is the ideal partner.

A collection was assembled, duly assessed, and two were the clear favourites.

England’s cool climate helps keep the wines crisp, fresh, and aromatic. Often created from a blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay grapes that ripen well here, giving the wines a lively mix of red-berry and citrus flavours, a fine mousse, and a touch of elegance.

1 - Black Chalk Wild Rose 2022, Hampshire

As pale as the palest rosé from Provence. There is an exceptional balance between the ripe, superbly textured fruit and the crisply rich, refreshing acidity. It is very well-honed, with the texture of red fruits poised to linger on the palate for a considerable time.

Jacob Leadley and Zoë Driver were part of the winemaking team at Hattingley before establishing Black Chalk, based just outside Andover, about 6 years ago.

The blend for this wine is 57% Pinot Noir, 36% Pinot Meunier, and 7% Chardonnay, with an ABV of 12%, aged on lees for 22 months and on cork for 6 more. Think the finest smoked salmon, trout acquired from the River Test earlier that afternoon, creamy wild mushroom risotto, or a tomato and goat’s cheese tart.

£45.00 - Black Chalk - winery link

2 - Nyetimber Rosé, Sussex

Classy refinement. A flawless example of the exceptional talent that exists in the winemaking team at Nyetimber, led by Cherie Spriggs.

Salmon pink in colour. Very distinct summer berry fruits and toasted brioche on the nose. There is a deliciously refreshing palate with strawberry and raspberry notes, underpinned by crunchy green-apple acidity and rounded by an elegant richness, with excellent length. One could sip this extensively over lunch and just sit back to enjoy the craftsmanship created in this glass. A marriage with shellfish would work very, very well. The current offer at Majestic is exceptional value: stock up for the summer.

£35.00 - six mix - Majestic - merchant link

Italy has been making wine for over 4,000 years, thanks to the creativity of its early civilisations. The Etruscans and Greeks were the first to plant vines, but the Romans took winemaking further by improving grape cultivation and spreading wine throughout their empire. They even called the region Oenotria, which means the land of wine.

Today, Italian wine is known for its quality and variety, with over 500 native grape types and many unique climates. From the hills of Piedmont to the sunny vineyards of Tuscany and Sicily, Italy combines old traditions with new ideas in winemaking.

The three wines here were tasted among others from the wine merchant, Lea & Sandeman. They differ in style but share a common richness, depth, and concentration that easily place them in the ‘decadent’ category. They will all improve with age, and to thoroughly enjoy them today, you need to decant an hour or so before they are needed to show their true potential.

1 - Chianti Classico Riserva Bugialla 2022, Poggerino

Piero Lanza stands out as one of Chianti’s most dynamic young ambassadors. With expertise as an oenologist, a skilled agronomist, and a visionary winemaker, he has elevated his wines to new heights in recent years. Nestled in the heart of the Chianti Classico district, his estate spans 106 acres of lush vineyards, silvery olive groves, and tranquil woodlands.

His mother inherited the winery from her father in the 1970s and began producing a Chianti Classico under the “Poggerino” label in 1980. Just 11 hectares are devoted to vines, nearly all Sangiovese, allowing for an intimate connection with the land.

Radda is one of the primary municipalities that sits in the centre of Chianti Classico and is known for its outstanding Sangiovese wines. Its vineyards stretch from 350 to 600 meters above sea level, making it one of the highest spots in the region. This elevation brings cooler air, which helps the grapes ripen slowly and keeps their bright acidity, complex aromas, and fresh character. As climate change affects Tuscany’s vineyards, these natural benefits have become even more important. The steep hillsides shape the land, provide excellent drainage, and offer a mix of vineyard exposures. Southern slopes get plenty of sun and help the grapes ripen, while the cooler eastern and northern slopes keep the wine’s acidity and elegance. Forests around the vineyards help balance the climate, support local wildlife, and reduce large temperature swings between day and night during the growing season.

There is a concentration here that simply entices you to smile. Cherries on the nose with a touch of raspberry, and then the palate continues with cherry, red plum, raspberries, dried herbs, and earthy mineral notes. It just sits and sits, evolving in your mouth as you savour the finely grained tannins working with energetic acidity and rich fruit. It is exquisite today, but will certainly drink into the early 2030s.

£35.25 - case price - Lea & Sandeman - merchant link

2 - Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Ravazzol 2019, Ca’ La Bionda

The most decadent of the three. A captivating, voluptuous, rich and very desirable concoction from this fourth-generation wine family.

There are many different styles of Valpolicella. For the Amarone style, the grapes are carefully arranged in shallow trays or plastic crates and carried to airy drying lofts called fruttai immediately after the harvest. In the past, only the natural breeze would sweep through these spaces, but today, many wineries use precise ventilation to guide the process. Over three to four months, often stretching into the chill of January or February, the grapes slowly surrender 30 to 45 per cent of their weight to evaporation. This patient transformation intensifies their sugars, flavours, colour, tannins, and glycerol, while weaving in rich aromas of dried cherry, fig, raisin, plum, and spice.

When the drying is finished, the grapes are gently crushed and set to ferment. The must, brimming with sugar, ferments slowly, sometimes taking weeks to complete its transformation. The wine that emerges boasts robust alcohol levels, usually between 15 and 17 ABV, yet still holds onto remarkable depth and structure. This appassimento method produces a wine style called passito. At Ca’ La Bionda, the dried grapes are fermented in stainless-steel tanks, and the wine is then aged for 42 months in 3000-litre oak vats.

The vineyard for this wine spans 29 hectares from the Ravazzol hill at an altitude of 150 to 300 meters above sea level, with an east-south-east exposure. Both the palate and the nose are deeply concentrated. The nose is complex, with red-fruit flavours that combine with nutty, volatile notes from oxidative ageing. On the palate, there is an abundance of rich, elegant flavours of cherries, pepper, dried tobacco, with hints of balsamic, spice, tar, leather and powdered liquorice. Late 2030s.

£57.50 - case price - Lea & Sandeman - merchant link

3 - Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Bossona Riserva 2018, Cantine Dei

In Montepulciano, the Tuscan Sangiovese grape is known as Prugnolo Gentile. This is a flawless example that reminds us all that superlative wines from Tuscany can be made with their tried-and-tested Sangiovese rather than the international varieties favoured in Bolgheri. It was the grandfather of the current owner and winemaker, Caterina Dei, who bought this land in 1961. The vineyard sits at an elevation of between 350 and 400m, with a complex soil structure.

Savoury, elegant and refined on the nose with touches of spice, dark plums, mint and dark chocolate. Intensity and finesse on the palate with smoothly developed and velvety tannins, sitting alongside cherries, plums and developing spices. Long with charm and an abundance of style. Will drink well into the 2030s.

£60.75 - case price - Lea & Sandeman - merchant link

In modern economics and technology theory, the Fragility of Augmented Scarcity describes the hidden systemic vulnerabilities that arise when artificial barriers and bottlenecks are used to restrict the distribution of goods that would otherwise be abundant. It suggests that trying to preserve old models of value creates dangerous, easily breakable structures.

This phenomenon may be reflected in the current Bordeaux wine market. Consequently, it is pertinent to examine the current conditions in this renowned wine region and assess which wines are prudent purchases for today’s consumers.

Since 1982, investment in Bordeaux wines through the En Primeur system has typically yielded substantial returns, with annual gains frequently surpassing those of the stock market. This strategy has proven to be an effective long-term investment, particularly when focused on top-quality wines from exceptional vintages.

However, by 2026, this trend may no longer persist. While market fluctuations are well recognised, several novel factors have emerged in recent years. For instance, an article by David Williams, wine critic for The Observer, published on 24 April 2026, featured the subheading, ‘France’s most famous region is in turmoil as producers make far more bottles than they can possibly sell.’ The article discusses reports of unsold inventory and cash flow challenges, issues that have been circulating for the past several years.

Jancis Robinson noted in the Financial Times on 31 May 2025, ‘Traditional customers are getting older and have full cellars. Younger people who are interested in wine have so many more wines to choose from than the slow-maturing reds of Bordeaux.’ Over the subsequent twelve months, the Bordeaux wine market has softened further. Notably, prices for older vintages of Claret, which are high-quality and suitable for immediate consumption, have declined, whereas newer wines require extended ageing.

Anecdotal evidence from London wine merchants over the past year indicates a decline in demand, attributed to an oversupply of fine wine in the market and resulting decreases in prices for older vintages. For instance, Chateau Haut-Brion 2010 was initially released En Primeur at approximately £600–£650 per bottle, but is currently listed at £480 on the Justerini website. This wine has received a rating from Parker of 99/100 and Robinson 19/20. Similarly, Margaux 2009 was offered En Primeur at £530 and is now priced at £475. In contrast, Latour 2010 has experienced a modest increase from £820 to £875. These wines are suitable for consumption in a couple of years and are expected to remain in optimal condition for at least another decade.

French banks are also playing a significant role in making more fine wine more widely available. While they have historically supported Bordeaux estates, financial institutions are concerned about debt levels and sales. Crédit Agricole, the largest lender to the French agricultural and wine sectors, is now closely involved in the crisis. The bank has been compelled to mediate debt and assist in restructuring hundreds of overleveraged properties. As a result, châteaux are selling wine into an already depressed market, which is driving prices down further.

Additional factors are contributing to the situation. Bulk wine prices have fallen sharply, and domestic demand in France has declined, with younger generations consuming far less than previous ones. At the lower end of the market, the French Government is also encouraging growers to remove vines and plant alternative crops due to regional oversupply. Although these do not directly impact the En Primeur market, they nevertheless contribute to broader, longer-term concerns.

Combine these factors with a school of thought that believes the Bordelais have been too greedy since the early 80s. As a reference point, the 1982 En Primeur price of Château Lynch-Bages sold by Berrys was £8.25 per bottle. The 2025 En Primeur price is £195.00. That represents an increase of 2,264%. French inflation from 1982 to 2025 was 160%. Although this is a snapshot of one, very specific property, there are many other examples of similar price rises. Ultimately, this is a reflection on the power and desirability of Claret, and these rises simply demonstrate market forces at work.

Taken together, the above makes it difficult to assess how the market will evolve over the next five to ten years. Many of the prestigious properties are very well funded, and therefore, there is no immediate crisis. But if you are not financed by a wealthy family or a large corporate entity, then the outlook might be rather bleak.

From a consumer perspective, the other side of this coin might provide an interesting investment opportunity. It could be argued that if pricing is currently deflated, this might be a good time to buy wines such as the Haut-Brion 2010 noted above as a long-term investment, with all the usual caveats of any investment. Almost certainly, but if that is a consideration, then only purchase the stars from the top vintages, and view them on the assumption that if they do not create a good return, then you will have a wine to drink that will be superb over the coming decades.

If you need Claret for drinking over the next few years, the small list below has been well reviewed by the critics and are either just below or a fraction above their En Primeur prices. The Cos d’Estournel listed below received a stellar rating from one very well-known critic.

1 - Grand Puy Lacoste 2020 - En Primeur £54; In Bond June ‘26 £47 - Drink 2030 onwards - Justerinis

2 - Haut-Bailly 2020 - En Primeur £100: In Bond June ‘26 £95 - Drink 2028 onwards - Justerinis

3 - Cos d’Estournel 2016 - En Primeur £120; In Bond June ‘26 £131 - Drink 2030 onwards - Berrys

4- Haut-Brion 2010 - En Primeur £600-£650; In Bond June ‘26 £480 - Drink 2030 onwards - Justerinis

5 - Margaux 2009 - En Primuer £530; In Bond June ‘26 £475 - Drink 2030 onwards - Justerinis

6 - Latour 2010 - En Primeur £820; In Bond June ‘26 £875 - Drink 2040 onwards - Justerinis

Another wine drinking to perfection at the moment is Domaine de Chevalier 2009. Available In Bond at Berrys from £400 for 6 bottles, as well as Farr and Goedhuis. It is an exceptional wine, and I have been very lucky to have tasted it on several occasions over the last six months.

While En Primeur is steeped in history and tradition, today’s market revolves around a simple question: what makes it worth committing now? Buyers seek unmistakable value over past vintages, true rarity, the promise of future demand, or the thrill of securing a coveted wine before anyone else.

En Primeur continues to deliver real advantages. It opens doors to wines that often vanish after bottling, particularly in exceptional years or from exclusive estates. While lower opening prices can be a perk, this is less certain in today’s climate. Early purchase guarantees pristine provenance, with bottles coming straight from the source. There is also the chance to claim rare formats, such as magnums or even larger bottles.

In recent campaigns, pricing has taken centre stage. Buyers are expected to pay upfront, wait patiently for delivery, and tie up funds in a market full of uncertainty. When bottled vintages are available at similar prices, En Primeur starts to look like a gamble rather than an opportunity.

So, should we sound the alarm and warn buyers away from a market facing real challenges, or do the unique advantages of En Primeur still make a compelling case for snapping up the 2025s now on offer?

Based on my recent tastings, the 2025 vintage ranges from very good to truly outstanding. I suggest focusing on wines crafted for the long haul, those destined to shine from 2040 and beyond. In the coming weeks, I will share a shortlist of bottles worth considering for your cellar. My advice: approach the 2025s with selectivity, but do not miss out.

Also, in another missive, I shall be assessing high-quality Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots from other wine regions around the world, at different price points.

As some of us are ageing, we might not be here to enjoy the results of these purchases. Depends when you feel the Grim Reaper will appear over the horizon. But keeping it in perspective is also very important, and as one old friend always used to say, ‘by the time they are ready for drinking, you will have forgotten how much you paid.’

Cold poached salmon, Jersey Royals, crisp, dill-infused cucumber slices, and a mustard-vinaigrette over leafy greens would be a perfect match for the two White Burgundies listed below. Is there another more quintessentially English summer dish than cold poached salmon?

Wearing another hat at a recent comparative tasting of many White Burgundies from multiple merchants, two from Berry’s stood out for immediate consumption. They will also evolve over the next five years. For that rather special lunch or dinner, where the guests will appreciate what you have served, then you will be warmly congratulated on making an inspired decision.

1 - Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc, Les Cloux 2023, Dom. Rollin Père & Fils

Pernand-Vergelesses sits at the northwest edge of the Côte de Beaune in Burgundy and is known for its excellent Chardonnay from limestone-rich Jurassic soils. The village is unique because its vineyards wrap around the Hill of Corton, offering a diverse mosaic of soil types that are shallow, stony limestone and marl, often with lots of broken limestone rock.

This fourth-generation domaine owns 14 hectares of land across five different villages, and their winery is located in the village of Pernand-Vergelesses. Les Cloux is a south-east-facing site perched around 350m.

There is an excellent balance in this wine. The nose reveals intense, citrusy aromas, with orchard and hedgerow flowers plus touches of acacia. The creamy acidity delivers precision and texture that sit comfortably on the palate. 2023 delivered wines that are full-bodied and have longevity in their DNA. This is one of those. Drink for another five to seven years. But then why wait? It’s rather good today.

£38.00 - Berrys - merchant link

2 - Auxey-Duresses Blanc, Benjamin Leroux 2023

Having been general manager at Domaine du Comte Armand in Pommard, Benjamin established his own business nearly 20 years ago. This is a textbook village wine with considerable richness and flavour. Thanks to the marriage of limestone and marl soils, sun-kissed slopes, and a brisk continental climate, Chardonnay here reveals a captivating balance of finesse and refinement, resulting in a Côte de Beaune wine that delivers remarkable value. Both of these wines are superb.

£42.00 - Berrys - merchant link

More deals from the Waitrose cellar: two wines that are perfect for every day drinking.

1 - Domaine du Grand Montmirail Vacqueyras 2023

The prices from the satellite appellations of Châteauneuf-du-Pape - Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Sablet, etc. - have been slowly rising over the last decade. Where there was once really good value for the same blends used in Châteauneuf - mainly combinations of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre - pricing had been heading towards £30 and above.

Therefore, to find a wine from one of these villages, produced by a first class domaine, for £15 is a steal. The web site states £18.75, but when you add 6 bottles to your basket a discount is applied. At this price it is 50p more expensive than the Côtes du Rhône benchmark from Guigal. However, this Vacqueyras is leagues ahead in terms of quality.

Grand Montmirail is a fourth-generation winery based in the village of Vacqueyras, making wines from that appellation as well as Gigondas, Crozes-Hermitage, and Beaune-de-Venise. You will always find their wines on the list of Rhône specialist, Yapp Brothers.

This is a crowd-pleaser. Very upfront, full-bodied and ready for drinking. Nose is appealing with flavours of black cherries with hints of black olives. Velvety smooth with a long, richly textured finish and good length. Think flat iron, BBQ, Béarnaise sauce, french fries, and a massive salad laden with croutons and a rich dressing.

£15.00 - Waitrose - case of 6 - on offer until 23-Jun-26 - merchant link

2 - Louis Jadot Mâcon-Azé 2023

Louis Jadot needs little introduction, a house founded in 1859 with a strong international reputation and following. Very classic Chardonnay from the Mâconnais region, crisp and tensile on the palate, with a citrus-peel and orange-rind finish that lingers long in the mouth. A wine to accompany food particularly a few nibbles before lunch or dinner. At £13.50 this is really, really good value.

This could just be sitting in the draw of the fridge for the entire summer, and nobody would ever complain. Many might be rather delighted with your choice.

£13.50 - Waitrose - on offer until 23-Jun-26 - merchant link

In penning this missive on this grape variety, I hope to convince many of you to be adventurous and explore a specific style of Gewürztraminer you may not have encountered before.

The milder variants of this grape when managed by very professional winemakers, can create a perfect drink to enjoy alongside a few nibbles on a summer’s evening, as an entry point for supper.

Many who have already tried this grape may have come across a style that is richly extracted, overly promiscuous, and could be labelled a fruit-bomb: too obvious, flagrantly over-the-top, and lacking in decorum. When paired with the right foods - foie gras springs to mind - then that style has a well-defined spot in the culinary world.

However, this is a grape versatile enough to be dry as well as lusciously sweet. The two wines below are light, refreshing and definitely restrained. There is an element of residual sugar, but it is light, and with the flavours of tropical fruits concocted in the glass, works extremely well.

There are approximately 20,000 acres of this grape planted around the world, with just over a quarter in France’s Alsace region. In the UK, this region is certainly a niche market, mainly due to the wines being sold by grape or style rather than the appellation where they reside that exists across the majority of French appellations, ie Sancerre.

Therefore, it is not easily understood, and most people seeing the bottle assume it comes from Germany, that could also be described as a niche player in this market.

A panel was assembled to taste what I would describe as four entry-level wines, with easy accessibility coming from either Waitrose or Majestic. Two came out significantly ahead of the others.

1 - Paul Blanck Gewürztraminer 2023.

Pale yellow colour, with a lightly fragrant nose. Uplifting on the palate with delicate tropical fruit flavours of mango, lychees, and papaya. Rich, medium-bodied, with good length and, at this level, a clean longish finish. Might evolve over time as well. This would slip down very easily on a summer’s evening nattering away outside.

£17.50 - Waitrose - merchant link

2 - Domaines Schlumberger ‘Les Princes Abbés’ Gewürztraminer 2023

Enchanting nose of caramelised oranges, light grapefruit tones, and a hint of saline. Complex layers on the palate: a richness with a light touch of residual sugar adds to the complexity. Acidity well-balanced, pronounced fruit with very good length. It’s immensely comforting. Rather like putting on an old glove, it coats the palate with a creamily rich texture that sits for a fair period of time. Slightly old-school and engaging. Not an item to dwell over, but something to enjoy with friends while the tapenade would create a superb foil, as would stuffed olives, fennel-infused saucisson, and taramasalata.

£18.50 - Majestic - six mix price - merchant link

Eating in Soho, sleeping in Bloomsbury, and then exploring a quiet street with exceptional retail.

Eat: Aulis, 16 St Anne’s Court, Soho, London W1F 0BF

Simon Rogan, the celebrated Michelin-starred chef, came back on my radar a few months ago. Never having visited his London restaurant, Aulis, a booking was made, deposit paid and anticipation accelerating. He has been very influential in shaping modern British fine dining through innovation and sustainability with a strong focus on seasonality and farm-to-table dishes. With 6 Michelin Stars across 4 restaurants , then he unquestionably knows what he is doing.

We first ate at his two restaurants in the Lake District nearly thirteen years. After having taking over the village of Carmel in the Lake District, very much in the style of Rick Stein in Padstow, he established a reputation that stretches around the world.

Aulis, in a small connecting street in Soho, is a very small affair. Just 12 covers. Sitting at an oval table where the chef and his team put on a very memorable, almost theatrical, performance as you closely watch their skills to forge 16 courses only a few feet from each guest, makes an impression. Simply outstanding. The attention to detail was extraordinary. The engaging explanation of how each dish had been created, the provenance of the ingredients, the utterly focused orchestration of the complicated morsels to build each concoction was an absolute joy and pleasure to watch. The taste buds were elevated and the anticipation was well and truly worth the wait.

The menu changes on a very regular basis, they may have said daily, and is managed by what fresh foods are available form their own sources. It is presented in a sealed envelope, with a simple typed sheet on this inside. You may wish to open it as you sit in their bar for the first three courses, or keep the whole experience as a secret until you have finished. Charlie Tayler leads the kitchen here, and was supported by Ben and Lauren the night we visited, winning his first Michelin Star in 2024.The sommelier, Charles, is an ambassador for English Wine. There are no Champagnes on the wine list, only the finest of sparkling wines made across England. Given my background at WineGB, we chatted. Rather a lot. He introduced me to two wines that I shall be covering once I have re-tasted them with a panel team in Hampshire. Hopefully, they will perform as well as they did during dinner. Work-in-progress.

When you place your booking, you pay the full price of £195 per head. However, for 16 courses, with all of the theatre that is encompassed in this sitting, then it is a very special, memorable, and immensely enjoyable experience. When we go again, it will be as a foursome. More input and chat about each course, plus other opinions on the wines that have been selected, will enhance the evening. It is not often in one’s life you have the opportunity to be so engaged with the chefs creating food that can only be described as magical and outstanding.

Sleep: Zetter Hotel, 2-7 Montague Street, London WC1B 5BP

This hotel has oodles and oodles of style. Set in an attractive, classic, Bloomsbury street, backing onto the British Museum, occupying six adjoining houses, it contains 68 bedrooms. It has been considerately crafted. Every painting, sculpture, tapestry, chair and table has been given carefully considered assessment before accurately placed to provide a superbly balanced interior.

The garden, still work-in-progress, has considerable space for a central London hotel. The new bar, the terrace, the landscaping of the garden are all being given the same degree of attention as the interior. Bedrooms are very comfortable: mattresses suitably sprung covered in ice white linen, and the rooms kitted out in an understated style, offering views of the garden or the quiet street on the front.

Impeccably trained staff are discrete, welcoming and very helpful. The Eggs Benedict over breakfast were flawless, as was the coffee, croissants, granola and juices. Light snacks sitting on the terrace were creative, unusual and delicious. Overall, really rather special.

Shop & Eat: Lambs Conduit Street

This is a largely undiscovered collection of eclectic, independent shops that embrace clothing, antiques, wine, food, spectacles, shoes, stationers, and many, many food options.

Fisher Londoner, 7 Rugby Street, London WC1N 3QT

I must add a health warning here. There is a wonderful Japanese word, tsundoku, for people who buy too many books, knowing that they will never have the time to read them all. Guilty as charged. There should be a word for those wine-loving individuals who like serving our vinous delights in an array of glasses and decanters. When we buy another glass, set of glasses, or decanter, we say to ourselves that this is the last one, no need to buy any more. Ever. And then succumb when a new item presents itself.

When you find a shop like Fisher London, it is impossible to convince yourself that another piece of crystal is not required. Even if you are made of sterner stuff, and have adamantly decided your home cannot accommodate any further glasses or decanters, then I would advise not being enticed to enter this shop. Otherwise, inevitable purchases will follow, however determined your resolve may be.

Hilary Fisher has a wonderfully curated collection of antiques that will entice people to ponder, debate, and willing purchase a new delight for a drawing room, dining room, study or bedroom. Be cautious, as there is considerable temptation here. Sits in a side street off Lambs Conduit.

Albion Wine Shippers, 56 Lambs Conduit Street, London WC1N 3LW

There is also a very, very old school wine store. For those who remember Liz and Mike Berry’s La Vigneronne in South Ken during the 1980s, then this is almost a carbon copy. You are entering a time-warp. The broad selection of wines literally litter the shelves and floor. The collection that has been assembled in this relatively small environment is a delight. If you lived within walking distance then there would be a constant trek to acquire something new or just hope the firm favourite had not sold out. Allow enough space to carry a few bottles home, or simply select a variety and have them delivered. Their web site does not reflect the emporium that sits here.

Noble Rot, 51 Lambs Conduit Street, London WC1N 3NB

This is still my favourite wine bar in London. They now have two additional branches, one in Soho and one in Mayfair, but they are restaurants and lack the character of this original setting. You feel a sense of calm develop as you enter, the shoulders drop, the wine is chosen, sampled, and then, in time, a menu is consulted. The wine list contains an array of very competitively priced wines of high quality and the budget can be pushed a fair distance for a simple wine bar, in a very quiet street, away from the hustle and bustle of the West End. Lunch, in my opinion, is the best option. Allow plenty of time, and plan a light supper.

Following a very broad search for another rosé, this newish variant from Miraval hits the mark as a perfect pairing with food.

There is a positive lift in acidity levels in this ‘Sainte Victoire’ offering that stands out amongst a few dozen tasted, and it is a wine that would sit superbly with some richer nibbles as a pre-supper aperitif, or more precisely with a selection of shellfish: langoustine, crevettes grise, very buttery potted shrimps, or a richly flavoured fish pie on a Friday evening, spring to mind.

Miraval started as a project from Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, who very sensibly asked the Perrin family - famous for their Château Beaucastel from Châteauneuf-du-Pape - to make this wine. This new ‘extension’ comes from high ground in the Sainte Victoire region of Provence. Montagne Saint-Victoire was used in many paintings by Cezanne, who could see it from his studio in Aix. From 2005, two sub-appellations of Côtes de Provence were created: Sainte-Victoire and Fréjus.

It is made entirely from the Cinsault grape, one of the mainstays of Southern Rhône production, and the concentration of fruit combined with the very balanced, but gently enhanced acidity, gives it sufficient backbone to sit very well over many lunches and suppers this summer. Majestic seems to be the primary stockist.

Miraval ‘Sainte Victoire’ Rosê 2024, Côtes-de-Provence
£20.50 - Majestic (usual price £27) - merchant link

With the En Primeur campaign for the Bordeaux 2025 vintage in full swing, this might be a moment to reflect on 1982.

‘Vintage of the Century’ was the label attached to the 1982 harvest in Bordeaux when it arrived en primeur during early 1983. It was unquestionably an exceptionally good vintage in terms of the quality of the wine produced.

However, it was much more than a great vintage.

It arrived at a moment in time with a unique set of factors that, when combined, would change the international wine market forever. It is these other factors, alongside the fact that it was a great quality vintage, that make Bordeaux 1982 the most influential year since the Second World War.

To put this in context, it is important to consider the vintages of the 1970s; reflect on the economies of Europe and North America for the decade before; alongside the wealth created during the 1980s; the arrival of the wine broker; global pricing of high-quality wine; the rise of the American wine writer Robert Parker; and finally, an assessment of the vintage itself.

The economies of Europe and North America had been in the doldrums during the 1970s. The tide changed with the arrival of Thatcher in Downing Street and Reagan in the White House. Wealth was being created in the City and on Wall Street at a faster rate than at any time since the Industrial Revolution. “Bing-Bang”, high-yield “junk” bond markets, LBOs, the easing of interest rates - starting in 1982 - combined with tax cuts, fuelled investment, driving asset prices - stocks and real estate - upward. Wall Street profits rose from less than 10% of all corporate profits in 1982 to 40% by 2003.

With these increases in income and wealth, aspirations and expectations were growing. The estate in the Cotswolds, the Yorkshire Grouse moor, a chalet in Gstaad, the yacht in the Mediterranean, the Aston, the house in Chelsea, and, of course, a notable wine cellar. Movies and TV series such as Trading Places, Wall Street, and Harry Enfield’s ‘Loadsamoney’ captured the ‘greed is good’ mood. The padded shoulders, Armani suits, 911s, yellow ties and braces, yuppies, conspicuous consumption, Brooks Brothers, Filofax, DINKY couples - the list can go on and on. Wine, particularly Claret, was an essential part of this lifestyle.

The 1982 Bordeaux Vintage saw wine become a trading commodity for the first time: very much in tune with the times. The arrival of the wine broker played a critical role in the price escalation. Farr Vintners, set up by Jim Farr and Lindsay Hamilton in the late 70s, with Steve Browett joining them a couple of years later, led the charge when wine bought in Chicago could be sold for an inflated price in Geneva; wine bought in London would reach new heights in Singapore; or a parcel bought from a country estate added to a fashionable London restaurant wine list at a significant profit. The global pricing of fine wine was accelerating, as was demand, and this vintage was a critical driver in the velocity of appreciation. This trend has continued over the last 40 years but is currently faltering: the subject of another missive over the coming month. Broking became part of the business of wine following the 1982 vintage.

An event that celebrates its 50th Birthday this year is the Judgement of Paris, which took place on 24th May 1976, and changed international wine pricing. The immensely charming, and sadly missed, Steven Spurrier organised a tasting in Paris on this day. He wanted to compare the finest Cabernet Sauvignons from California with Clarets, and Californian Chardonnays with White Burgundies. The tasting was blind. All the judges were French. Everyone expected the established names from France to win the day. Much to the horror of all present, the Californians were voted the winners. Questions were asked in the French Parliament, and this was seen as a national embarrassment in France. French wine had long been regarded as the global benchmark, so the outcome challenged deeply embedded assumptions about cultural and agricultural superiority.

The tasting transformed the wine world by questioning French dominance, elevating New World regions, and shifting evaluation toward blind tasting and quality-based judgment, laying the foundation for today’s competitive global wine market. At the time of this tasting, the Californians were charging around one-third of the price of the French equivalent. Not surprisingly, that changed very quickly: the logic from the wineries in California was that if the French think our wines are better than theirs, then we should be charging as much as they do. By 1982, the international wine market was changing, and the Judgement of Paris had significantly hastened that process.

Therefore, not a direct impact from the 1982 vintage, but the acknowledgement that regions such as California and Australia were beginning to produce wines of equal quality, if not necessarily exact replicas, was changing perceptions at the top end of the wine market, and many of these wines started to appear in the glitzy restaurants around the world. I remember drinking a Chardonnay from California’s Far Niente winery at New York’s Grand Central Oyster Bar in early 1982 that completely altered my own reference point to what could be achieved outside of France.

The arrival of a new wine champion, in the shape or Robert Parker, came to international fame in 1982 for strongly endorsing the Bordeaux vintage, even as many traditional critics were cautious. His accurate assessment, independent voice, and clear 100-point scoring system proved influential as the wines excelled, establishing his credibility and global authority.

Many have been critical of Parker, as winemakers created wines that aligned with his palate, a phenomenon often termed “Parkerisation.” Yes, there was a short-term, perhaps even medium-term, shift towards his preference for “fruit-bombs” - riper fruit, more new oak, high alcohol, low acidity - that motivated Bordeaux winemakers to achieve a good Parker score that made selling the wine in North America much more effective. However, in 1982, a significant number of chateaux in Bordeaux were not making wines of a particularly high standard. He changed that, almost overnight. Also, he changed the wine vocabulary. Looking back at books on wine tasting from the late 60s and early 70s, there is none of the precision that he brought to the description of wine in his publication, The Wine Advocate, which used a fruit-driven lexicon, encouraging a move toward flavour-led tasting notes, making wine easier for consumers to understand.

Parker’s influence extended beyond Bordeaux, affecting wine regions worldwide and increasing market transparency, while also perhaps concentrating power in the hands of the wine journalist. Most critics now use some form of rating system - sometimes 5, 10 or 20 rather than 100 - and it has become an essential part of the wine writing business. Any wine achieving 100/100 acquires the status of a minor deity. All of this was achieved from launching his publication in 1978 and coming of age four years later in 1982.

Many Bordeaux vintages have been lauded as the ‘Vintage of the Century’ over the last 40 years. Many have been as good as 1982; many would argue that a number have been better. Let’s not worry about precise definitions; after all, every vintage is very different, and 1982 easily stands out as one of the top 10 vintages since the legendary 1945 vintage.

The 1970s experienced only two good vintages: 1970 and 1975; two moderate vintages 1971 and 1978; the rest were generally light in style and body, diluted, and worryingly inconsistent. The reputation of the world’s most prestigious wine region was in tatters, consumers lost confidence, and merchants around the world found these wines very difficult to sell. Stock levels in merchants’ cellars continued to increase as consumers bought wines from other regions, notably California.

Then came along 1982. Early flowering and even ripening were followed by a warm, dry summer with abundant sunshine, with grapes reaching optimal maturity by harvest, resulting in high sugar levels, ripe tannins, and richly flavoured concentration. The wines were full-bodied and opulent, with soft, easygoing tannins that made them very appealing in the short term and capable of ageing exceptionally well. Given the dire vintages of the 1970s, a legend had been born: a truly transformative, benchmark year that would have ramifications for the decades ahead.

Therefore, it is not just the quality of the 1982 Bordeaux vintage that marks it as the Vintage of the Century, but when combined with the factors listed above, it really did see a renaissance in the fortunes of producers and merchants. Bordeaux pricing has a direct impact on the global wine industry, and the significant increases in 1982 affected every other high-quality wine region worldwide. It was truly a game-changer, and although many of the great wines produced 40 years ago have long since been consumed, the legacy it established has reverberated through the world of wine long after the bottles have been emptied.

The Taino people - indigenous peoples of the Caribbean, inhabiting islands like Hispaniola and Puerto Rico - had a wooden scaffold or grill for smoking meat called a barbacoa or barabicu.

It was Gonzalo Fernández de Oviedo y Valdés (1478–1557) - a Spanish historian, chronicler of the Indies, and early naturalist - who first referred to a barbacoa in 1526. His writings helped transmit the term “barbacoa” into Spanish and in 1648 the word entered English as barbacado and eventually became barbecue by 1661. Today, the word appears as “barbecue,” “barbeque,” or the abbreviated “BBQ”.

Arguably, barbecue is much more than a method of cooking: it is often a social ritual tied to identity, community gatherings, and tradition. In Argentina, the Asado is central to national identity, featuring grilled meats over open fire; in Brazil, Churrasco involves skewered meats cooked over flame, often in communal settings; in South Africa, the braai is both a cooking method and a key social tradition; in Jamaica, jerk cooking combines Indigenous Taíno techniques with African influences; to name but a few.

Wine is most definitely needed at these gatherings, and below are three reds that I came across recently. More updates on this subject as the summer unfolds - albeit still a bit chilly at the moment, but time to get the bottles in for those long lunches and suppers ahead.

1 - Château Maris, Les Planels, Minervois, La Livinière 2022, Languedoc-Roussillon, France.

A rather classic Southern France blend of predominantly Syrah with Grenache making up around 15% of the final brew. The terraces where the “Les Planels” Syrah grows have been there for 35 years. Aged in French oak barrels for 12 months - one-third being new - there is a rich concentration of black fruits - cherries and cassis - on the nose and palate. The new oak adds a light touch of vanilla and there is a definite plum flavour at the end of the palate and just a sprinkling of chocolate. Noted for its exceptional value for money over a number of recent vintages.

£19.50 - Waitrose - merchant link

2 - Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2021, Swartland, South Africa.

This winery is one of the real stars in South Africa, making a great name across all the different wines it produces. Does this 2021 need another year before the cork is pulled? Perhaps, but it is drinking exceptionally well today, and if you decanted it an hour before it is needed then that slight element of oxygen would lift it . Is this the best South African Syrah? Certainly, one of the top five. Is it the best value South African Syrah? Unquestionably with the 20% discount currently available at Waitrose..

There is a richness on the nose with bundles of earthy and red-fruit flavours, just a hint of mushrooms or forest floor discernible as you swirl the glass. Darker berries on the palate - blackberries - and tannins working well with oaky components. At the very end there is a reminder of an earthy, almost savoury finish that is very attractive, and would work to perfection with succulent joints from the barbecue. Full-bodied, opulent and slips down with immense ease. You might leave it for a few more years, as it certainly has a long way to go

Available from many wineries. Priced at Waitrose with a discount until 28-Apr-26. Berrys have it in bond alongside older vintages. If you like what you find, then buying some of the older brews would be a very good addition to your cellar. The pricing of the 2018 comes in Duty Paid, inc VAT, at just under £40.

£38.50 - Waitrose - merchant link

3 - Domaine du Clos des Fées ‘Le Clos des Fées’ Rouge 2016, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, France.

Sixty notes for a Cotes du Roussillon might seem a bit toppy, even if it is ten years old. It’s not, I can assure you. It’s simply stunning. Mates coming over for lunches or dinners this summer will be exposed to this utterly radiant, imposing, and superbly crafted wine that has been created.

The grapes from very old Carignan and Grenache vines are blended with younger Syrah and Mourvèdre - all with equal proportions - then aged for eighteen months in new oak. The appellation is located in an amphitheater-shaped region around Perpignan, bordered by the Pyrenees to the west, the Corbières to the north.

Alongside the black fruits on the nose - blackcurrants and black cherries - are subtle tones of vanilla from the new oak. Perfectly orchestrated ripeness on the palate that has layers of silky complexity, with depth, character, elegance and longevity. There is concentration that evolves as the wine opens in the glass, with an almost broody tone, that is simply adorable. I’m not sure I’ve tasted a wine of this richness at this price point for many, many years. Buy a couple of bottles, taste, be amazed, and then order a couple of cases for when only the finest cuts are being added to the barbecue this summer. You might like to keep it to one side for the roast beef this autumn as well.

£60 - Yapp - merchant link