Italy has been making wine for over 4,000 years, thanks to the creativity of its early civilisations. The Etruscans and Greeks were the first to plant vines, but the Romans took winemaking further by improving grape cultivation and spreading wine throughout their empire. They even called the region Oenotria, which means the land of wine.

Today, Italian wine is known for its quality and variety, with over 500 native grape types and many unique climates. From the hills of Piedmont to the sunny vineyards of Tuscany and Sicily, Italy combines old traditions with new ideas in winemaking.

The three wines here were tasted among others from the wine merchant, Lea & Sandeman. They differ in style but share a common richness, depth, and concentration that easily place them in the ‘decadent’ category. They will all improve with age, and to thoroughly enjoy them today, you need to decant an hour or so before they are needed to show their true potential.

1 - Chianti Classico Riserva Bugialla 2022, Poggerino

Piero Lanza stands out as one of Chianti’s most dynamic young ambassadors. With expertise as an oenologist, a skilled agronomist, and a visionary winemaker, he has elevated his wines to new heights in recent years. Nestled in the heart of the Chianti Classico district, his estate spans 106 acres of lush vineyards, silvery olive groves, and tranquil woodlands.

His mother inherited the winery from her father in the 1970s and began producing a Chianti Classico under the “Poggerino” label in 1980. Just 11 hectares are devoted to vines, nearly all Sangiovese, allowing for an intimate connection with the land.

Radda is one of the primary municipalities that sits in the centre of Chianti Classico and is known for its outstanding Sangiovese wines. Its vineyards stretch from 350 to 600 meters above sea level, making it one of the highest spots in the region. This elevation brings cooler air, which helps the grapes ripen slowly and keeps their bright acidity, complex aromas, and fresh character. As climate change affects Tuscany’s vineyards, these natural benefits have become even more important. The steep hillsides shape the land, provide excellent drainage, and offer a mix of vineyard exposures. Southern slopes get plenty of sun and help the grapes ripen, while the cooler eastern and northern slopes keep the wine’s acidity and elegance. Forests around the vineyards help balance the climate, support local wildlife, and reduce large temperature swings between day and night during the growing season.

There is a concentration here that simply entices you to smile. Cherries on the nose with a touch of raspberry, and then the palate continues with cherry, red plum, raspberries, dried herbs, and earthy mineral notes. It just sits and sits, evolving in your mouth as you savour the finely grained tannins working with energetic acidity and rich fruit. It is exquisite today, but will certainly drink into the early 2030s.

£35.25 - case price - Lea & Sandeman - merchant link

2 - Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Ravazzol 2019, Ca’ La Bionda

The most decadent of the three. A captivating, voluptuous, rich and very desirable concoction from this fourth-generation wine family.

There are many different styles of Valpolicella. For the Amarone style, the grapes are carefully arranged in shallow trays or plastic crates and carried to airy drying lofts called fruttai immediately after the harvest. In the past, only the natural breeze would sweep through these spaces, but today, many wineries use precise ventilation to guide the process. Over three to four months, often stretching into the chill of January or February, the grapes slowly surrender 30 to 45 per cent of their weight to evaporation. This patient transformation intensifies their sugars, flavours, colour, tannins, and glycerol, while weaving in rich aromas of dried cherry, fig, raisin, plum, and spice.

When the drying is finished, the grapes are gently crushed and set to ferment. The must, brimming with sugar, ferments slowly, sometimes taking weeks to complete its transformation. The wine that emerges boasts robust alcohol levels, usually between 15 and 17 ABV, yet still holds onto remarkable depth and structure. This appassimento method produces a wine style called passito. At Ca’ La Bionda, the dried grapes are fermented in stainless-steel tanks, and the wine is then aged for 42 months in 3000-litre oak vats.

The vineyard for this wine spans 29 hectares from the Ravazzol hill at an altitude of 150 to 300 meters above sea level, with an east-south-east exposure. Both the palate and the nose are deeply concentrated. The nose is complex, with red-fruit flavours that combine with nutty, volatile notes from oxidative ageing. On the palate, there is an abundance of rich, elegant flavours of cherries, pepper, dried tobacco, with hints of balsamic, spice, tar, leather and powdered liquorice. Late 2030s.

£57.50 - case price - Lea & Sandeman - merchant link

3 - Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Bossona Riserva 2018, Cantine Dei

In Montepulciano, the Tuscan Sangiovese grape is known as Prugnolo Gentile. This is a flawless example that reminds us all that superlative wines from Tuscany can be made with their tried-and-tested Sangiovese rather than the international varieties favoured in Bolgheri. It was the grandfather of the current owner and winemaker, Caterina Dei, who bought this land in 1961. The vineyard sits at an elevation of between 350 and 400m, with a complex soil structure.

Savoury, elegant and refined on the nose with touches of spice, dark plums, mint and dark chocolate. Intensity and finesse on the palate with smoothly developed and velvety tannins, sitting alongside cherries, plums and developing spices. Long with charm and an abundance of style. Will drink well into the 2030s.

£60.75 - case price - Lea & Sandeman - merchant link

In modern economics and technology theory, the Fragility of Augmented Scarcity describes the hidden systemic vulnerabilities that arise when artificial barriers and bottlenecks are used to restrict the distribution of goods that would otherwise be abundant. It suggests that trying to preserve old models of value creates dangerous, easily breakable structures.

This phenomenon may be reflected in the current Bordeaux wine market. Consequently, it is pertinent to examine the current conditions in this renowned wine region and assess which wines are prudent purchases for today’s consumers.

Since 1982, investment in Bordeaux wines through the En Primeur system has typically yielded substantial returns, with annual gains frequently surpassing those of the stock market. This strategy has proven to be an effective long-term investment, particularly when focused on top-quality wines from exceptional vintages.

However, by 2026, this trend may no longer persist. While market fluctuations are well recognised, several novel factors have emerged in recent years. For instance, an article by David Williams, wine critic for The Observer, published on 24 April 2026, featured the subheading, ‘France’s most famous region is in turmoil as producers make far more bottles than they can possibly sell.’ The article discusses reports of unsold inventory and cash flow challenges, issues that have been circulating for the past several years.

Jancis Robinson noted in the Financial Times on 31 May 2025, ‘Traditional customers are getting older and have full cellars. Younger people who are interested in wine have so many more wines to choose from than the slow-maturing reds of Bordeaux.’ Over the subsequent twelve months, the Bordeaux wine market has softened further. Notably, prices for older vintages of Claret, which are high-quality and suitable for immediate consumption, have declined, whereas newer wines require extended ageing.

Anecdotal evidence from London wine merchants over the past year indicates a decline in demand, attributed to an oversupply of fine wine in the market and resulting decreases in prices for older vintages. For instance, Chateau Haut-Brion 2010 was initially released En Primeur at approximately £600–£650 per bottle, but is currently listed at £480 on the Justerini website. This wine has received a rating from Parker of 99/100 and Robinson 19/20. Similarly, Margaux 2009 was offered En Primeur at £530 and is now priced at £475. In contrast, Latour 2010 has experienced a modest increase from £820 to £875. These wines are suitable for consumption in a couple of years and are expected to remain in optimal condition for at least another decade.

French banks are also playing a significant role in making more fine wine more widely available. While they have historically supported Bordeaux estates, financial institutions are concerned about debt levels and sales. Crédit Agricole, the largest lender to the French agricultural and wine sectors, is now closely involved in the crisis. The bank has been compelled to mediate debt and assist in restructuring hundreds of overleveraged properties. As a result, châteaux are selling wine into an already depressed market, which is driving prices down further.

Additional factors are contributing to the situation. Bulk wine prices have fallen sharply, and domestic demand in France has declined, with younger generations consuming far less than previous ones. At the lower end of the market, the French Government is also encouraging growers to remove vines and plant alternative crops due to regional oversupply. Although these do not directly impact the En Primeur market, they nevertheless contribute to broader, longer-term concerns.

Combine these factors with a school of thought that believes the Bordelais have been too greedy since the early 80s. As a reference point, the 1982 En Primeur price of Château Lynch-Bages sold by Berrys was £8.25 per bottle. The 2025 En Primeur price is £195.00. That represents an increase of 2,264%. French inflation from 1982 to 2025 was 160%. Although this is a snapshot of one, very specific property, there are many other examples of similar price rises. Ultimately, this is a reflection on the power and desirability of Claret, and these rises simply demonstrate market forces at work.

Taken together, the above makes it difficult to assess how the market will evolve over the next five to ten years. Many of the prestigious properties are very well funded, and therefore, there is no immediate crisis. But if you are not financed by a wealthy family or a large corporate entity, then the outlook might be rather bleak.

From a consumer perspective, the other side of this coin might provide an interesting investment opportunity. It could be argued that if pricing is currently deflated, this might be a good time to buy wines such as the Haut-Brion 2010 noted above as a long-term investment, with all the usual caveats of any investment. Almost certainly, but if that is a consideration, then only purchase the stars from the top vintages, and view them on the assumption that if they do not create a good return, then you will have a wine to drink that will be superb over the coming decades.

If you need Claret for drinking over the next few years, the small list below has been well reviewed by the critics and are either just below or a fraction above their En Primeur prices. The Cos d’Estournel listed below received a stellar rating from one very well-known critic.

1 - Grand Puy Lacoste 2020 - En Primeur £54; In Bond June ‘26 £47 - Drink 2030 onwards - Justerinis

2 - Haut-Bailly 2020 - En Primeur £100: In Bond June ‘26 £95 - Drink 2028 onwards - Justerinis

3 - Cos d’Estournel 2016 - En Primeur £120; In Bond June ‘26 £131 - Drink 2030 onwards - Berrys

4- Haut-Brion 2010 - En Primeur £600-£650; In Bond June ‘26 £480 - Drink 2030 onwards - Justerinis

5 - Margaux 2009 - En Primuer £530; In Bond June ‘26 £475 - Drink 2030 onwards - Justerinis

6 - Latour 2010 - En Primeur £820; In Bond June ‘26 £875 - Drink 2040 onwards - Justerinis

Another wine drinking to perfection at the moment is Domaine de Chevalier 2009. Available In Bond at Berrys from £400 for 6 bottles, as well as Farr and Goedhuis. It is an exceptional wine, and I have been very lucky to have tasted it on several occasions over the last six months.

While En Primeur is steeped in history and tradition, today’s market revolves around a simple question: what makes it worth committing now? Buyers seek unmistakable value over past vintages, true rarity, the promise of future demand, or the thrill of securing a coveted wine before anyone else.

En Primeur continues to deliver real advantages. It opens doors to wines that often vanish after bottling, particularly in exceptional years or from exclusive estates. While lower opening prices can be a perk, this is less certain in today’s climate. Early purchase guarantees pristine provenance, with bottles coming straight from the source. There is also the chance to claim rare formats, such as magnums or even larger bottles.

In recent campaigns, pricing has taken centre stage. Buyers are expected to pay upfront, wait patiently for delivery, and tie up funds in a market full of uncertainty. When bottled vintages are available at similar prices, En Primeur starts to look like a gamble rather than an opportunity.

So, should we sound the alarm and warn buyers away from a market facing real challenges, or do the unique advantages of En Primeur still make a compelling case for snapping up the 2025s now on offer?

Based on my recent tastings, the 2025 vintage ranges from very good to truly outstanding. I suggest focusing on wines crafted for the long haul, those destined to shine from 2040 and beyond. In the coming weeks, I will share a shortlist of bottles worth considering for your cellar. My advice: approach the 2025s with selectivity, but do not miss out.

Also, in another missive, I shall be assessing high-quality Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots from other wine regions around the world, at different price points.

As some of us are ageing, we might not be here to enjoy the results of these purchases. Depends when you feel the Grim Reaper will appear over the horizon. But keeping it in perspective is also very important, and as one old friend always used to say, ‘by the time they are ready for drinking, you will have forgotten how much you paid.’

Cold poached salmon, Jersey Royals, crisp, dill-infused cucumber slices, and a mustard-vinaigrette over leafy greens would be a perfect match for the two White Burgundies listed below. Is there another more quintessentially English summer dish than cold poached salmon?

Wearing another hat at a recent comparative tasting of many White Burgundies from multiple merchants, two from Berry’s stood out for immediate consumption. They will also evolve over the next five years. For that rather special lunch or dinner, where the guests will appreciate what you have served, then you will be warmly congratulated on making an inspired decision.

1 - Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc, Les Cloux 2023, Dom. Rollin Père & Fils

Pernand-Vergelesses sits at the northwest edge of the Côte de Beaune in Burgundy and is known for its excellent Chardonnay from limestone-rich Jurassic soils. The village is unique because its vineyards wrap around the Hill of Corton, offering a diverse mosaic of soil types that are shallow, stony limestone and marl, often with lots of broken limestone rock.

This fourth-generation domaine owns 14 hectares of land across five different villages, and their winery is located in the village of Pernand-Vergelesses. Les Cloux is a south-east-facing site perched around 350m.

There is an excellent balance in this wine. The nose reveals intense, citrusy aromas, with orchard and hedgerow flowers plus touches of acacia. The creamy acidity delivers precision and texture that sit comfortably on the palate. 2023 delivered wines that are full-bodied and have longevity in their DNA. This is one of those. Drink for another five to seven years. But then why wait? It’s rather good today.

£38.00 - Berrys - merchant link

2 - Auxey-Duresses Blanc, Benjamin Leroux 2023

Having been general manager at Domaine du Comte Armand in Pommard, Benjamin established his own business nearly 20 years ago. This is a textbook village wine with considerable richness and flavour. Thanks to the marriage of limestone and marl soils, sun-kissed slopes, and a brisk continental climate, Chardonnay here reveals a captivating balance of finesse and refinement, resulting in a Côte de Beaune wine that delivers remarkable value. Both of these wines are superb.

£42.00 - Berrys - merchant link

More deals from the Waitrose cellar: two wines that are perfect for every day drinking.

1 - Domaine du Grand Montmirail Vacqueyras 2023

The prices from the satellite appellations of Châteauneuf-du-Pape - Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Sablet, etc. - have been slowly rising over the last decade. Where there was once really good value for the same blends used in Châteauneuf - mainly combinations of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre - pricing had been heading towards £30 and above.

Therefore, to find a wine from one of these villages, produced by a first class domaine, for £15 is a steal. The web site states £18.75, but when you add 6 bottles to your basket a discount is applied. At this price it is 50p more expensive than the Côtes du Rhône benchmark from Guigal. However, this Vacqueyras is leagues ahead in terms of quality.

Grand Montmirail is a fourth-generation winery based in the village of Vacqueyras, making wines from that appellation as well as Gigondas, Crozes-Hermitage, and Beaune-de-Venise. You will always find their wines on the list of Rhône specialist, Yapp Brothers.

This is a crowd-pleaser. Very upfront, full-bodied and ready for drinking. Nose is appealing with flavours of black cherries with hints of black olives. Velvety smooth with a long, richly textured finish and good length. Think flat iron, BBQ, Béarnaise sauce, french fries, and a massive salad laden with croutons and a rich dressing.

£15.00 - Waitrose - case of 6 - on offer until 23-Jun-26 - merchant link

2 - Louis Jadot Mâcon-Azé 2023

Louis Jadot needs little introduction, a house founded in 1859 with a strong international reputation and following. Very classic Chardonnay from the Mâconnais region, crisp and tensile on the palate, with a citrus-peel and orange-rind finish that lingers long in the mouth. A wine to accompany food particularly a few nibbles before lunch or dinner. At £13.50 this is really, really good value.

This could just be sitting in the draw of the fridge for the entire summer, and nobody would ever complain. Many might be rather delighted with your choice.

£13.50 - Waitrose - on offer until 23-Jun-26 - merchant link

In penning this missive on this grape variety, I hope to convince many of you to be adventurous and explore a specific style of Gewürztraminer you may not have encountered before.

The milder variants of this grape when managed by very professional winemakers, can create a perfect drink to enjoy alongside a few nibbles on a summer’s evening, as an entry point for supper.

Many who have already tried this grape may have come across a style that is richly extracted, overly promiscuous, and could be labelled a fruit-bomb: too obvious, flagrantly over-the-top, and lacking in decorum. When paired with the right foods - foie gras springs to mind - then that style has a well-defined spot in the culinary world.

However, this is a grape versatile enough to be dry as well as lusciously sweet. The two wines below are light, refreshing and definitely restrained. There is an element of residual sugar, but it is light, and with the flavours of tropical fruits concocted in the glass, works extremely well.

There are approximately 20,000 acres of this grape planted around the world, with just over a quarter in France’s Alsace region. In the UK, this region is certainly a niche market, mainly due to the wines being sold by grape or style rather than the appellation where they reside that exists across the majority of French appellations, ie Sancerre.

Therefore, it is not easily understood, and most people seeing the bottle assume it comes from Germany, that could also be described as a niche player in this market.

A panel was assembled to taste what I would describe as four entry-level wines, with easy accessibility coming from either Waitrose or Majestic. Two came out significantly ahead of the others.

1 - Paul Blanck Gewürztraminer 2023.

Pale yellow colour, with a lightly fragrant nose. Uplifting on the palate with delicate tropical fruit flavours of mango, lychees, and papaya. Rich, medium-bodied, with good length and, at this level, a clean longish finish. Might evolve over time as well. This would slip down very easily on a summer’s evening nattering away outside.

£17.50 - Waitrose - merchant link

2 - Domaines Schlumberger ‘Les Princes Abbés’ Gewürztraminer 2023

Enchanting nose of caramelised oranges, light grapefruit tones, and a hint of saline. Complex layers on the palate: a richness with a light touch of residual sugar adds to the complexity. Acidity well-balanced, pronounced fruit with very good length. It’s immensely comforting. Rather like putting on an old glove, it coats the palate with a creamily rich texture that sits for a fair period of time. Slightly old-school and engaging. Not an item to dwell over, but something to enjoy with friends while the tapenade would create a superb foil, as would stuffed olives, fennel-infused saucisson, and taramasalata.

£18.50 - Majestic - six mix price - merchant link

Eating in Soho, sleeping in Bloomsbury, and then exploring a quiet street with exceptional retail.

Eat: Aulis, 16 St Anne’s Court, Soho, London W1F 0BF

Simon Rogan, the celebrated Michelin-starred chef, came back on my radar a few months ago. Never having visited his London restaurant, Aulis, a booking was made, deposit paid and anticipation accelerating. He has been very influential in shaping modern British fine dining through innovation and sustainability with a strong focus on seasonality and farm-to-table dishes. With 6 Michelin Stars across 4 restaurants , then he unquestionably knows what he is doing.

We first ate at his two restaurants in the Lake District nearly thirteen years. After having taking over the village of Carmel in the Lake District, very much in the style of Rick Stein in Padstow, he established a reputation that stretches around the world.

Aulis, in a small connecting street in Soho, is a very small affair. Just 12 covers. Sitting at an oval table where the chef and his team put on a very memorable, almost theatrical, performance as you closely watch their skills to forge 16 courses only a few feet from each guest, makes an impression. Simply outstanding. The attention to detail was extraordinary. The engaging explanation of how each dish had been created, the provenance of the ingredients, the utterly focused orchestration of the complicated morsels to build each concoction was an absolute joy and pleasure to watch. The taste buds were elevated and the anticipation was well and truly worth the wait.

The menu changes on a very regular basis, they may have said daily, and is managed by what fresh foods are available form their own sources. It is presented in a sealed envelope, with a simple typed sheet on this inside. You may wish to open it as you sit in their bar for the first three courses, or keep the whole experience as a secret until you have finished. Charlie Tayler leads the kitchen here, and was supported by Ben and Lauren the night we visited, winning his first Michelin Star in 2024.The sommelier, Charles, is an ambassador for English Wine. There are no Champagnes on the wine list, only the finest of sparkling wines made across England. Given my background at WineGB, we chatted. Rather a lot. He introduced me to two wines that I shall be covering once I have re-tasted them with a panel team in Hampshire. Hopefully, they will perform as well as they did during dinner. Work-in-progress.

When you place your booking, you pay the full price of £195 per head. However, for 16 courses, with all of the theatre that is encompassed in this sitting, then it is a very special, memorable, and immensely enjoyable experience. When we go again, it will be as a foursome. More input and chat about each course, plus other opinions on the wines that have been selected, will enhance the evening. It is not often in one’s life you have the opportunity to be so engaged with the chefs creating food that can only be described as magical and outstanding.

Sleep: Zetter Hotel, 2-7 Montague Street, London WC1B 5BP

This hotel has oodles and oodles of style. Set in an attractive, classic, Bloomsbury street, backing onto the British Museum, occupying six adjoining houses, it contains 68 bedrooms. It has been considerately crafted. Every painting, sculpture, tapestry, chair and table has been given carefully considered assessment before accurately placed to provide a superbly balanced interior.

The garden, still work-in-progress, has considerable space for a central London hotel. The new bar, the terrace, the landscaping of the garden are all being given the same degree of attention as the interior. Bedrooms are very comfortable: mattresses suitably sprung covered in ice white linen, and the rooms kitted out in an understated style, offering views of the garden or the quiet street on the front.

Impeccably trained staff are discrete, welcoming and very helpful. The Eggs Benedict over breakfast were flawless, as was the coffee, croissants, granola and juices. Light snacks sitting on the terrace were creative, unusual and delicious. Overall, really rather special.

Shop & Eat: Lambs Conduit Street

This is a largely undiscovered collection of eclectic, independent shops that embrace clothing, antiques, wine, food, spectacles, shoes, stationers, and many, many food options.

Fisher Londoner, 7 Rugby Street, London WC1N 3QT

I must add a health warning here. There is a wonderful Japanese word, tsundoku, for people who buy too many books, knowing that they will never have the time to read them all. Guilty as charged. There should be a word for those wine-loving individuals who like serving our vinous delights in an array of glasses and decanters. When we buy another glass, set of glasses, or decanter, we say to ourselves that this is the last one, no need to buy any more. Ever. And then succumb when a new item presents itself.

When you find a shop like Fisher London, it is impossible to convince yourself that another piece of crystal is not required. Even if you are made of sterner stuff, and have adamantly decided your home cannot accommodate any further glasses or decanters, then I would advise not being enticed to enter this shop. Otherwise, inevitable purchases will follow, however determined your resolve may be.

Hilary Fisher has a wonderfully curated collection of antiques that will entice people to ponder, debate, and willing purchase a new delight for a drawing room, dining room, study or bedroom. Be cautious, as there is considerable temptation here. Sits in a side street off Lambs Conduit.

Albion Wine Shippers, 56 Lambs Conduit Street, London WC1N 3LW

There is also a very, very old school wine store. For those who remember Liz and Mike Berry’s La Vigneronne in South Ken during the 1980s, then this is almost a carbon copy. You are entering a time-warp. The broad selection of wines literally litter the shelves and floor. The collection that has been assembled in this relatively small environment is a delight. If you lived within walking distance then there would be a constant trek to acquire something new or just hope the firm favourite had not sold out. Allow enough space to carry a few bottles home, or simply select a variety and have them delivered. Their web site does not reflect the emporium that sits here.

Noble Rot, 51 Lambs Conduit Street, London WC1N 3NB

This is still my favourite wine bar in London. They now have two additional branches, one in Soho and one in Mayfair, but they are restaurants and lack the character of this original setting. You feel a sense of calm develop as you enter, the shoulders drop, the wine is chosen, sampled, and then, in time, a menu is consulted. The wine list contains an array of very competitively priced wines of high quality and the budget can be pushed a fair distance for a simple wine bar, in a very quiet street, away from the hustle and bustle of the West End. Lunch, in my opinion, is the best option. Allow plenty of time, and plan a light supper.

Following a very broad search for another rosé, this newish variant from Miraval hits the mark as a perfect pairing with food.

There is a positive lift in acidity levels in this ‘Sainte Victoire’ offering that stands out amongst a few dozen tasted, and it is a wine that would sit superbly with some richer nibbles as a pre-supper aperitif, or more precisely with a selection of shellfish: langoustine, crevettes grise, very buttery potted shrimps, or a richly flavoured fish pie on a Friday evening, spring to mind.

Miraval started as a project from Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, who very sensibly asked the Perrin family - famous for their Château Beaucastel from Châteauneuf-du-Pape - to make this wine. This new ‘extension’ comes from high ground in the Sainte Victoire region of Provence. Montagne Saint-Victoire was used in many paintings by Cezanne, who could see it from his studio in Aix. From 2005, two sub-appellations of Côtes de Provence were created: Sainte-Victoire and Fréjus.

It is made entirely from the Cinsault grape, one of the mainstays of Southern Rhône production, and the concentration of fruit combined with the very balanced, but gently enhanced acidity, gives it sufficient backbone to sit very well over many lunches and suppers this summer. Majestic seems to be the primary stockist.

Miraval ‘Sainte Victoire’ Rosê 2024, Côtes-de-Provence
£20.50 - Majestic (usual price £27) - merchant link

With the En Primeur campaign for the Bordeaux 2025 vintage in full swing, this might be a moment to reflect on 1982.

‘Vintage of the Century’ was the label attached to the 1982 harvest in Bordeaux when it arrived en primeur during early 1983. It was unquestionably an exceptionally good vintage in terms of the quality of the wine produced.

However, it was much more than a great vintage.

It arrived at a moment in time with a unique set of factors that, when combined, would change the international wine market forever. It is these other factors, alongside the fact that it was a great quality vintage, that make Bordeaux 1982 the most influential year since the Second World War.

To put this in context, it is important to consider the vintages of the 1970s; reflect on the economies of Europe and North America for the decade before; alongside the wealth created during the 1980s; the arrival of the wine broker; global pricing of high-quality wine; the rise of the American wine writer Robert Parker; and finally, an assessment of the vintage itself.

The economies of Europe and North America had been in the doldrums during the 1970s. The tide changed with the arrival of Thatcher in Downing Street and Reagan in the White House. Wealth was being created in the City and on Wall Street at a faster rate than at any time since the Industrial Revolution. “Bing-Bang”, high-yield “junk” bond markets, LBOs, the easing of interest rates - starting in 1982 - combined with tax cuts, fuelled investment, driving asset prices - stocks and real estate - upward. Wall Street profits rose from less than 10% of all corporate profits in 1982 to 40% by 2003.

With these increases in income and wealth, aspirations and expectations were growing. The estate in the Cotswolds, the Yorkshire Grouse moor, a chalet in Gstaad, the yacht in the Mediterranean, the Aston, the house in Chelsea, and, of course, a notable wine cellar. Movies and TV series such as Trading Places, Wall Street, and Harry Enfield’s ‘Loadsamoney’ captured the ‘greed is good’ mood. The padded shoulders, Armani suits, 911s, yellow ties and braces, yuppies, conspicuous consumption, Brooks Brothers, Filofax, DINKY couples - the list can go on and on. Wine, particularly Claret, was an essential part of this lifestyle.

The 1982 Bordeaux Vintage saw wine become a trading commodity for the first time: very much in tune with the times. The arrival of the wine broker played a critical role in the price escalation. Farr Vintners, set up by Jim Farr and Lindsay Hamilton in the late 70s, with Steve Browett joining them a couple of years later, led the charge when wine bought in Chicago could be sold for an inflated price in Geneva; wine bought in London would reach new heights in Singapore; or a parcel bought from a country estate added to a fashionable London restaurant wine list at a significant profit. The global pricing of fine wine was accelerating, as was demand, and this vintage was a critical driver in the velocity of appreciation. This trend has continued over the last 40 years but is currently faltering: the subject of another missive over the coming month. Broking became part of the business of wine following the 1982 vintage.

An event that celebrates its 50th Birthday this year is the Judgement of Paris, which took place on 24th May 1976, and changed international wine pricing. The immensely charming, and sadly missed, Steven Spurrier organised a tasting in Paris on this day. He wanted to compare the finest Cabernet Sauvignons from California with Clarets, and Californian Chardonnays with White Burgundies. The tasting was blind. All the judges were French. Everyone expected the established names from France to win the day. Much to the horror of all present, the Californians were voted the winners. Questions were asked in the French Parliament, and this was seen as a national embarrassment in France. French wine had long been regarded as the global benchmark, so the outcome challenged deeply embedded assumptions about cultural and agricultural superiority.

The tasting transformed the wine world by questioning French dominance, elevating New World regions, and shifting evaluation toward blind tasting and quality-based judgment, laying the foundation for today’s competitive global wine market. At the time of this tasting, the Californians were charging around one-third of the price of the French equivalent. Not surprisingly, that changed very quickly: the logic from the wineries in California was that if the French think our wines are better than theirs, then we should be charging as much as they do. By 1982, the international wine market was changing, and the Judgement of Paris had significantly hastened that process.

Therefore, not a direct impact from the 1982 vintage, but the acknowledgement that regions such as California and Australia were beginning to produce wines of equal quality, if not necessarily exact replicas, was changing perceptions at the top end of the wine market, and many of these wines started to appear in the glitzy restaurants around the world. I remember drinking a Chardonnay from California’s Far Niente winery at New York’s Grand Central Oyster Bar in early 1982 that completely altered my own reference point to what could be achieved outside of France.

The arrival of a new wine champion, in the shape or Robert Parker, came to international fame in 1982 for strongly endorsing the Bordeaux vintage, even as many traditional critics were cautious. His accurate assessment, independent voice, and clear 100-point scoring system proved influential as the wines excelled, establishing his credibility and global authority.

Many have been critical of Parker, as winemakers created wines that aligned with his palate, a phenomenon often termed “Parkerisation.” Yes, there was a short-term, perhaps even medium-term, shift towards his preference for “fruit-bombs” - riper fruit, more new oak, high alcohol, low acidity - that motivated Bordeaux winemakers to achieve a good Parker score that made selling the wine in North America much more effective. However, in 1982, a significant number of chateaux in Bordeaux were not making wines of a particularly high standard. He changed that, almost overnight. Also, he changed the wine vocabulary. Looking back at books on wine tasting from the late 60s and early 70s, there is none of the precision that he brought to the description of wine in his publication, The Wine Advocate, which used a fruit-driven lexicon, encouraging a move toward flavour-led tasting notes, making wine easier for consumers to understand.

Parker’s influence extended beyond Bordeaux, affecting wine regions worldwide and increasing market transparency, while also perhaps concentrating power in the hands of the wine journalist. Most critics now use some form of rating system - sometimes 5, 10 or 20 rather than 100 - and it has become an essential part of the wine writing business. Any wine achieving 100/100 acquires the status of a minor deity. All of this was achieved from launching his publication in 1978 and coming of age four years later in 1982.

Many Bordeaux vintages have been lauded as the ‘Vintage of the Century’ over the last 40 years. Many have been as good as 1982; many would argue that a number have been better. Let’s not worry about precise definitions; after all, every vintage is very different, and 1982 easily stands out as one of the top 10 vintages since the legendary 1945 vintage.

The 1970s experienced only two good vintages: 1970 and 1975; two moderate vintages 1971 and 1978; the rest were generally light in style and body, diluted, and worryingly inconsistent. The reputation of the world’s most prestigious wine region was in tatters, consumers lost confidence, and merchants around the world found these wines very difficult to sell. Stock levels in merchants’ cellars continued to increase as consumers bought wines from other regions, notably California.

Then came along 1982. Early flowering and even ripening were followed by a warm, dry summer with abundant sunshine, with grapes reaching optimal maturity by harvest, resulting in high sugar levels, ripe tannins, and richly flavoured concentration. The wines were full-bodied and opulent, with soft, easygoing tannins that made them very appealing in the short term and capable of ageing exceptionally well. Given the dire vintages of the 1970s, a legend had been born: a truly transformative, benchmark year that would have ramifications for the decades ahead.

Therefore, it is not just the quality of the 1982 Bordeaux vintage that marks it as the Vintage of the Century, but when combined with the factors listed above, it really did see a renaissance in the fortunes of producers and merchants. Bordeaux pricing has a direct impact on the global wine industry, and the significant increases in 1982 affected every other high-quality wine region worldwide. It was truly a game-changer, and although many of the great wines produced 40 years ago have long since been consumed, the legacy it established has reverberated through the world of wine long after the bottles have been emptied.

The Taino people - indigenous peoples of the Caribbean, inhabiting islands like Hispaniola and Puerto Rico - had a wooden scaffold or grill for smoking meat called a barbacoa or barabicu.

It was Gonzalo Fernández de Oviedo y Valdés (1478–1557) - a Spanish historian, chronicler of the Indies, and early naturalist - who first referred to a barbacoa in 1526. His writings helped transmit the term “barbacoa” into Spanish and in 1648 the word entered English as barbacado and eventually became barbecue by 1661. Today, the word appears as “barbecue,” “barbeque,” or the abbreviated “BBQ”.

Arguably, barbecue is much more than a method of cooking: it is often a social ritual tied to identity, community gatherings, and tradition. In Argentina, the Asado is central to national identity, featuring grilled meats over open fire; in Brazil, Churrasco involves skewered meats cooked over flame, often in communal settings; in South Africa, the braai is both a cooking method and a key social tradition; in Jamaica, jerk cooking combines Indigenous Taíno techniques with African influences; to name but a few.

Wine is most definitely needed at these gatherings, and below are three reds that I came across recently. More updates on this subject as the summer unfolds - albeit still a bit chilly at the moment, but time to get the bottles in for those long lunches and suppers ahead.

1 - Château Maris, Les Planels, Minervois, La Livinière 2022, Languedoc-Roussillon, France.

A rather classic Southern France blend of predominantly Syrah with Grenache making up around 15% of the final brew. The terraces where the “Les Planels” Syrah grows have been there for 35 years. Aged in French oak barrels for 12 months - one-third being new - there is a rich concentration of black fruits - cherries and cassis - on the nose and palate. The new oak adds a light touch of vanilla and there is a definite plum flavour at the end of the palate and just a sprinkling of chocolate. Noted for its exceptional value for money over a number of recent vintages.

£19.50 - Waitrose - merchant link

2 - Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2021, Swartland, South Africa.

This winery is one of the real stars in South Africa, making a great name across all the different wines it produces. Does this 2021 need another year before the cork is pulled? Perhaps, but it is drinking exceptionally well today, and if you decanted it an hour before it is needed then that slight element of oxygen would lift it . Is this the best South African Syrah? Certainly, one of the top five. Is it the best value South African Syrah? Unquestionably with the 20% discount currently available at Waitrose..

There is a richness on the nose with bundles of earthy and red-fruit flavours, just a hint of mushrooms or forest floor discernible as you swirl the glass. Darker berries on the palate - blackberries - and tannins working well with oaky components. At the very end there is a reminder of an earthy, almost savoury finish that is very attractive, and would work to perfection with succulent joints from the barbecue. Full-bodied, opulent and slips down with immense ease. You might leave it for a few more years, as it certainly has a long way to go

Available from many wineries. Priced at Waitrose with a discount until 28-Apr-26. Berrys have it in bond alongside older vintages. If you like what you find, then buying some of the older brews would be a very good addition to your cellar. The pricing of the 2018 comes in Duty Paid, inc VAT, at just under £40.

£38.50 - Waitrose - merchant link

3 - Domaine du Clos des Fées ‘Le Clos des Fées’ Rouge 2016, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, France.

Sixty notes for a Cotes du Roussillon might seem a bit toppy, even if it is ten years old. It’s not, I can assure you. It’s simply stunning. Mates coming over for lunches or dinners this summer will be exposed to this utterly radiant, imposing, and superbly crafted wine that has been created.

The grapes from very old Carignan and Grenache vines are blended with younger Syrah and Mourvèdre - all with equal proportions - then aged for eighteen months in new oak. The appellation is located in an amphitheater-shaped region around Perpignan, bordered by the Pyrenees to the west, the Corbières to the north.

Alongside the black fruits on the nose - blackcurrants and black cherries - are subtle tones of vanilla from the new oak. Perfectly orchestrated ripeness on the palate that has layers of silky complexity, with depth, character, elegance and longevity. There is concentration that evolves as the wine opens in the glass, with an almost broody tone, that is simply adorable. I’m not sure I’ve tasted a wine of this richness at this price point for many, many years. Buy a couple of bottles, taste, be amazed, and then order a couple of cases for when only the finest cuts are being added to the barbecue this summer. You might like to keep it to one side for the roast beef this autumn as well.

£60 - Yapp - merchant link

With this week’s weather almost convincing us that Spring was just around the corner, I thought it was time to start covering a few rosés from the excellent 2025 vintage, and a new find to accompany chocolate.

There were bundles of warmth during the growing season across France and perhaps, in some parts of Provence, a touch too much. However, the team at Triennes have worked their magic and created a great wine for £14.95, magnums at £33, and double magnums at £85.00. Plenty of scope for many lunches and dinners this summer. Triennes was born in 1989 by two legends from Burgundy, Jacques Seysses of Domaine Dujac and Aubert de Villaine of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. As heritage goes in the world of wine, it does not come much classier than this.

The sprightly blend of Cinsault, Syrah, Grenache and Merlot captures those moments sitting outside, chatting away, reaching for another helping of the coronation chicken, and enjoying the company of friends and family. Oodles of rose petals, summer fruits and blossom sit on the nose, leading to a perfectly balanced, elegant and delicate roundness on the palate with just the right touch of light acidity. Definitely, a ‘let’s keep a bottle of this in the fridge door’ wine until late September.

Triennes, Rosé, Mediterranée 2025

£14.95 - Berry’s - merchant link

More missives on rosés to follow over the coming weeks.

Enhancing A Chocolate Moment

If there are still a few Easter Eggs loitering in the pantry, or just a strong liking for chocolate in general, then this Curaçao will enhance those evening moments after supper when just a sliver settles the digestion. Regard this as Cointreau on steroids. Needs chilling, and a small, well crafted glass to lift the moment. It’s only 25%, so nothing that will cause too much grief even if a second or third glass was required just to finish off the Dairy Milk.

£28.24 - Merchant of Malt - merchant link

Considering how much chocolate might be heading into households over the next few days, a quick assessment of wines that might be able to cope with these dietary additions seemed an option.

Also, to provide a relatively easy point-of-purchase given the closeness to Easter, Waitrose seemed a good place to start. Apologies, as I do seem to be covering this retailer extensively at the moment, but their speed of online delivery to your nearest store plus their extensive selection, makes them an easy option for last minute thoughts on vinous matters.

A collection was acquired, and a small panel was assembled.

The ‘banker’ in this equation was the Rutherglen Muscat that I knew would be able cope with chocolate, and any other pudding that might be under construction for the weekend, regardless of the sweetness level, and was a useful reference point for the other wines.

The first two listed here, out of the six tasted, were delicious, but not suited as a pairing option for chocolate.

1 - Santa Cristina Vin Santo 2021

Given the price, this was a real surprise. Light aromas of toffee apples and figs, with a delicate and elegant palate that had dried fruits sitting alongside very light acidity and bundles of ripe, honeyed flavours. Not overly complex, but a delight to drink, and would work well as an aperitif with toasted almonds and tomato-based bruschetta, and unquestionably a light foie gras. Half-bottle.

£14.44 - Waitrose - includes 25% discount for six or more - merchant link

2 - Feiler-Artinger On The QT Bin 33: Ruster Ausbruch

A very classy Austrian wine in great packaging. Lightly honeyed notes on the nose, with a refreshing balance between sweetness and acidity. Stone and tropical fruits are very much in evidence, and the grapefruit acidity works with the ripe blossom flavours. Again, no match for chocolate, but if you are eating apple crumble, bread and butter pudding, or a Bakewell tart, this would be ideal. Also, a ripe and high quality Gorgonzola would be a treat. Half-bottle.

£19.88 - Waitrose - includes 25% discount for six or more - merchant link

3 - Fèlsina Vin Santo Chianti Classico

This is rather grown up. The vineyard is northeast of Sienna, and this exquisite wine is made from Trebbiano, Malvasia and Sangiovese grapes. The grapes are allowed to dry out until the January or February after the harvest, concentrating the juices, then a slow fermentation follows, and finally around 7 years in casks. On the nose and palate tropical fruits - pineapples and mangos - combine with stone fruit flavours of peaches and apricots. Yes, it will pair with chocolate, but that’s not where it stops. If the foie gras is very rich and opulent, then pile it onto the brioche, and fill a large glass of this nectar to create a exceptionally memorable moment. Half-bottle.

£30.00 - Waitrose - includes 25% discount for six or more - merchant link

Many wine families and estates broaden their offering by opening new operations in regions outside their usual territory or engaging in a joint venture with an existing producer.

One thinks of Moët & Chandon opening Domaine Chandon in Napa in 1973 and, under the same name, a winery in Ningxia region of China in 2014 ; the 1979 joint venture between Mouton Rothschild and Robert Mondavi to create Opus One; Lafite Rothschild establishing Viños Los Vascos in Chile; Mondavi and the Italian family Frescobaldi to create Luce and Ornellaia; Domaine Drouhin establishing a top-flight winery in Oregon; Louis Roederer’s USA operations now owning 25% of all vineyards in Anderson Valley, northern Californian. The list goes on and on.

Therefore, it is not surprising that a prominent Northern Rhône producer such as Alain Graillot would look further afield. With a site in the Ardèche creating a Côtes du Rhône, ‘Clos Somi’; the acquisition of land in Beaujolais in 2013 to establish Domaine de Fa; and joint ventures in both Spain and Morocco. The broader operations of this family company are now managed by two brothers, Antoine and Maxime, as Alain died in 2022.

Their Northern Rhône wines are superb. Consistently of the highest quality, and have built a strong following in France and beyond. Yapp Brothers bring in the other wines, so I thought a tasting across the board would be interesting to see how they matched up alongside each other.

1 - Domaine Alain Graillot, Côtes-du-Rhône ‘Clos Somi’ 2024

A couple of notches above the Côtes-du-Rhônes from the larger producers, this equally proportioned bland of Cinsault, Grenache Noir and Syrah, is an easy-drinking and immensely quaffable red. Characteristic Grenache spice on the nose, with a warm and friendly palate that would sit comfortably alongside cottage pie, steak and kidney, or a chicken and mushroom pie during any cold spells that still might be around this Spring.

£19.95 - Yapp - merchant link

2 - Tandem, Syrah du Maroc 2023

A joint venture between Alain Graillot and the Ouled Thaleb winery in Morocco. If a wine had been designed to perfectly match lamb tagine, then this ticks all the boxes. The combination of spices such as cumin, ginger, turmeric and saffron slowly pervading the structure and fibre of a very slow-cooked lamb dish with lots of root vegetables, then this is the ideal partner. Full-bodied and generous with plump red fruit backed with good acidity and tannins, works very, very well. Drink today.

£21.25 - Yapp - merchant link

3 - Antoine Graillot & Raúl Pérez ‘Encinas’ 2022

You do not see many wines entirely from the Mencia grape. Created in the Bierzo region of northwest Spain, it is a rich concoction that is difficult to place in relatively terms to any other wine. However, it is very drinkable, but definitely needs food. Venison, port-laden beef stews, rich and fatty barbecued lamb. Raul Pérez is a Spanish legend who has established a reputation for creating terroir-driven wines, and this richly complex wine with very appealing and desirable red cherries and plums on the palate is a great find.

£25.00 - Yapp - merchant link

4 - Domaine de Fa, Fleurie ‘Roche Guillon’ 2023

Both of these wines, the St Amour below, have close parallels.

The region of Beaujolais has been through a transformation over the last two decades with a host of new producers arriving from other wine producing regions to significantly lift the overall quality of: many of these new producers are creating wines that would be unrecognisable twenty years ago. The focus has been on the 10 ten individual crus creating red wines, who have their own designated AOCs, in the northern part of the region.

The grape is the Gamay. Albeit, anyone who remembers the Beaujolais wines of the 80s and 90s, might not recognise these new creations. They are many miles apart. The wines from a few dozen producers - both old hands and new arrivals - are on a quality level that simply did not generally exist at the turn of the century.

Domaine de Fa is one such example.

Both of these wines need some time. I bought some of their 2015s a few years ago, and tasting them over the last few weeks, I have been surprised by how well they have aged, and what a delight it has been to pull these corks. These 23s are full of ripe, rich cherries, blackberries, hints of violets, with light, earthy tones of tapenade, and a good finish. They are both a tad closed, but keep for another 5 or more years, and they wioll reward the cellaring. The panel preferred the Fleurie, because it was a touch more forward. Both need time, and the Saint Amour will pip the Fleurie to the post in a few years.

£27.95 - Yapp - merchant link

5 - Domaine de Fa, Saint Amour ‘Côte de Besset’ 2023

£29.25 - Yapp - merchant link

6 - Alain Graillot, Crozes Hermitage 2022

If you like Syrah grown in the Northern Rhône, then you will like this wine. It’s a bit young, but the classically flawless nose, depth, ansd overall character combine to create a brew will age to perfection by the early 2030s. Even though the extreme heat of this vintage worried many producers, the overall standard is looking excellent. It will mature into a wine with layers of complexity, that will sit well with roast beef, coq au vin, and game.

£36.50 - Yapp - merchant link

A light dusting of honeysuckle might be the phrase needed to describe these wines.

Sometimes, you need an edge to transform the pairing of a wine with certain dishes from Southeast Asia. Then Germany can come to the rescue. A country that produces exquisitely bone-dry Rieslings of utter precision, can also create wines from the same grape that possess just a fraction of sweetness that can flow to perfection with aromatic, spicy and vibrant dishes.

But not just Southeast Asian dishes. Lobster, prawns, and langoustine all have a degree of richness that comes from the amino acids given that the finest examples of these crustaceans come from cold water habitats. Again, the precision of a Spätlese, with its concentrated fruit flavours and resonant acidity, would enhance these oceanic delights.

Other classic white varieties - Chardonnay and Sauvignon - just do not work with Thai dishes. The high acidity in the Sauvignon works badly with our mouth’s heat-sensitive receptors, accentuating the heat and spice, creating a bitterness. Chardonnay’s natural buttery and oaky flavours are simply out of kilter and nullify both the food and the wine.

Many of you may already be afficiandos of these wines. If not, then as an introduction to this style of wine, here are three from Waitrose - easily accessible on the next online order - that gently set in motion a new relationship from an entry level at £14.50 to a flawless and outstanding example at £44.50.

Also, as a bit of an aside, these wines are 8-8.5% alcohol. If you are looking for wines with much less punch, then Germany again meets this brief.

1 - Leitz Magdalenenkreuz Riesling Kabinett 2024

With a history dating back to 1744, this family company has seen significant growth sine the mid-1980s expanding their plantings from 3 hectares to over 130. This entry level wine would be a perfect starting point to begin a vinous journey into wines made from the Riesling grape in Germany. Delicate, floral noise with fresh pears mingled amongst peaches. Precise and clean on the palate with green and citrus fruit flavours, and the lift of fresh fruit mingles in with medium acidity: a very refreshing glass. With lightly spiced food or simply a drink to enjoy over Easter if the sun is shining at noon or early evening.

£14.50 - Waitrose - merchant link

2 - Dönnhoff Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spätlese 2023

Dönnhoff is a very established name in the Nahe region in southwest Germany. Nestled by the Mosel to the west and the Rheinhessen to the east and south, it is a relatively small region - just over 4,000 hectares - but with a diverse collection of soil types and a very balanced micro-climate.

Not as old as Leitz - 1761 - but with a formidable following and recognised as one of the quality-focused producers within the area, it consistently creates magical expressions of the Riesling grape. The vines for this wine are located in the oldest recorded vineyards of the Nahe, part of the village of Norheim.

This really is a wine that is impossible to have only one glass. Intense but refined on the nose, with mineral tones rather than just fruit. Focused acidity perfectly balanced with a savoury sweetness that lingers and lingers. Bright, blossoming fruit emerges on the finish. Classy and playful with immense character and absolute focus. It will age into the late 2030s.

£33.50 - Waitrose - merchant link

3 - Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Grunlack Spätlese 2022

An impressive estate sitting in a commanding position on a hill just outside the town of Rudesheim. Emperor Ludwig the Pious acquires vineyards on the Helisa stream, today’s Elsterbach, from Fulda Abbey in 817 - a bit of history here, but let’s not dwell on that component.

This wine is simply outstanding, and will be drinking into the late 2040s, perhaps early 2050s. However, that stated, it is also spectacularly good today.

Oodles of stone and tropical fruit on the nose, it has an intensity that is captivating. Savoury richness on the palate, that combines ripeness, precision and elegance into an engrossment of intense activity that goes on and on and on. Grapefruit, lime and a concentration of pineapple flavours arrive with vigour. Also, if you are looking for the perfect marriage with foie gras, then this would be a delight.

£44.50 - Waitrose - merchant link

Footnote. German wines are out of fashion. Why? Go back 150 years and they were the preferred vinous option for the aristocracy of Victorian England. However, varieties defined as Liebfraumilch, particularly brands such as Black Tower and Blue Nun, flooded the market in the 70s and 80s with relatively indifferent qulaity wine. As tastes changed, these fell into decline and the reputation from this style damaged Germany’s reputation for several decades. Today, the quality of German wine, across the range of wines exported, is on a different footing, and are acknowledged as being very high from bone-dry to lusciously sweet, as well as superb reds from the Pinot Noir.

Blah

Once in a while, you open a bottle from a winery you have not tasted before, and you think Christmas has arrived early.

Last weekend was such a moment. I had been researching the Justerini site, wearing another hat, and this property - Aalto - from Spain’s Ribera del Duero popped up.

There were two recent vintages that were available in magnums - 2020 and 2021. We had some friends for lunch, dinner and early evening drinks across the weekend, so I thought pulling the corks on Saturday lunch and extending the wine’s life over 30 hours would put these magnums to the test.

Wines were ordered, and arrived within three days.

Opened and wines poured. The results were very straightforward. Over the three occasions, everyone thought they were stunning. Drinking impressively well today, and will certainly age for another 5 years. Even after pulling the cork on the 2021 for 30 hours, the wine was still gorgeous. However, why wait that long?

Serving roast beef, a robust beef stew, sirloin with a béarnaise, or cold beef sandwiches, would be a flawless marriage. Obviously, with a dollop of horseradish on the side or spread into the whole grain.

The is a strong commonality between the two wines. The deliciously integrated new oak springs forth as a blossoming vanilla pod and then you hit the enticing red and black fruit on the nose. The first sip grips you and your taste buds are overwhelmed by the glorious flavours that come to grab the palate. They are rich, enticing and just a delight. The 2021 needs a small amount of additional time, probably 2028 onwards, but the 2020 is stunning today. It deserves red meat. Any cut, recipe or even salad with a beef base will work. Surprise and astonish your guests, convince them that you serve wine of a calibre unknown by your coterie of those closest to you and who enjoy chatting, nattering and munching on great produce and, very importantly, recognising a vinous delight. Need I push these wines any further?

£93.18 / £99.18 per magnum for 2020 / 2021 - Justerinis - merchant link

Read Justerini’s summary of the team behind this vineyard - link

Although vines were planted in Mornington Peninsula in the late 1800s, it was not until 1972 that the gears changed and the area started producing high quality wines. The combination of a cool maritime climate, mild summer temperatures with extended autumn warmth, and diverse soil types, generates an ideal environment for growing top quality Pinot Noir. The area sits within my definition of the Pacific Rim where this grape variety is producing exceptional wines.

Richer and fuller than their counterparts in Burgundy, a number of the producers are now creating wines that have excellent ageing potential. Ten Minutes By Tractor is one such example.

We visited the property in July last year, and were warmly greeted by the current owner Martin Spedding. The winery was originally established in 1997 by three farming families who were ten minutes apart by tractor. Hence the name. Martin visited their cellar door 12th March, 2004, and finalised the purchase the following month. Over the last 20 years they have bought more vineyards and significantly expanded the operation.

We tasted three different wines last weekend and the overall feedback from the panel was to focus on the Judd. Both the Wallis and Coolart Road were very good, but the Judd was a significant distance ahead.

Judd Pinot Noir 2022, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia

Very rich, fragrant nose combining plums, cherries and cassis. The palate was concentrated, slightly closed at first, but after some time in the glass began to show the potential that another few years would deliver. The light oak ageing lifts the overall body and structure. It will age into a very classic Pinot with forest floor aromas becoming evident but retaining the concentrated fruits and very well balanced acidity that are in place today. I need to buy some more and forget about it until 2028 onwards. Would pair with duck to perfection, as well as rack of lamb.

£52.80 - VINVM - merchant link

Recipes abound for sea bass. From seared fillets; Mediterranean options with tomatoes, olives and oregano; East Asian style with ginger scallions and soy; baked parchment encased options with capers, herbs and lemons; miso-glazed recipes and then caramelised; and a whole host more.

Chefs love the versatility and ability to pair with citrus, herbs, and seasonings to work with the clean, mild flavor that doesn’t overpower sauces, plus a tender yet resilient texture that holds up to high-heat searing, baking, or steaming, and forgiving margins with cooking.

With such an array of options, it is difficult to pin down a single wine that would work with every dish. However, here are a few options.

1 - Domaine Careme Vouvray Spring Sec 2022, Loire, France.

Mediterranean style seabass dishes. The Chenin Blanc covers the entire spectrum of white wine styles in the Loire from bone dry to lusciously sweet. This is dry, but not bone dry, with stone fruit flavours combined with distinctive green apples and ripe pear flavours. For the price, immensely drinkable and would work perfectly with crustaceans as an opener for lunch.

£12.50 - Waitrose - on offer until early March - merchant link

2 - Langhe Chardonnay, Figli Luigi Oddero 2023, Piedmont, Italy.

Parchment encased with capers, herbs and lemons. It has good acidity that would work with this type of recipe, and bright, tight fruit on the palate that would slip down easily over lunch. This was a real surprise from the selection of wines that had been assembled for this pairing. A family run business that started producing wines in 1975 and is known for exceptional Barolos and Barbarescos, so a Chardonnay is an unusual option. But at this discounted price, a very good glass of well made wine that could be mistaken for a cold climate white from much further north in Europe.

£20.00 - Berry’s - inc 20% discount - merchant link

3 - Forest Hill Vineyard: ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2024, Western Australia.

Seared fillets. Again, a surprise as you would normally expect to find classic French offerings from Yapp and not a well crafted Oz Chardonnay. Here we have another cool climate offering with citrusy grapefruit and lime flavours, light oak and a comfortable finish. Definitely needs food, and sea bass would be a great marriage. A rather atypical Western Australian Chardonnay.

£22.00 - Yapp - merchant link

4 - Beaujolais-Villages, ‘Leynes - Les Magnons’ Blanc 2022, Domaine de Fa, Beaujolais, France.

Miso-glazed recipes. It’s not often you find a Beaujolais Blanc on a merchant’s shelf. 40+ years back you would have found it rather than a Mâcon, Rully, Givry or Mercurey. 100% Chardonnay and made by Maxine and Antoine Graillot of Domaine Alain Graillot - see below. This white seems to be under-the-radar from the critics as they all focus on this Domaine’s red Beaujolais Crus. Single-vineyard wine showing real depth with plenty of expressive citrus fruit tones combined with apricot and peach flavours. Would also work to perfection on a Friday evening with a rich, well-seasoned, fish pie.

£24.00 - Yapp - merchant link

5 - Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 2024, Alain Graillot, Northern Rhône, France.

East Asian options. With a blend of 80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne, there is enough weight here to sit very comfortably alongside lightly spiced fish dishes. This Domaine consistently delivers exceptional reds and whites from this region. Ripe pears, light oak, juicy acidity, touch of tangerines, and a great finish. There is a classy structure that provides excellent length and a full, rich body, with the tiniest hint of honey and spice in the mid-palate. You could drink this with many, many full-bodied seabass creations as well as poached salmon, tuna concoctions with ginger, and concentrated Bouillabaisse.

£35.00 - Yapp - merchant link

There is no shortage of winter vegetables available to create a plethora of wondrous dishes that warm the heart and soul on these damp, grey days. From this array, could the mushroom be the single most important element in these dishes: the king of winter?

Mushrooms bring a friendly, comforting and cosy warmth to these seasonal dishes. They add depth and umami to hearty winter staples like soups, pies, stews, braises, risottos, and gravies. Chefs value mushrooms for their depth, versatile textures, and culinary flexibility, adding body to many staples, and often used as a meat substitute in vegetarian dishes. Low in fat, high in umami and protein, plus rich in B vitamins, selenium, potassium, copper, fibre and antioxidants, thereby complementing nutrient-dense winter meals.

They have been part of our diet for many centuries. The earliest known written records of mushrooms as food come from ancient Greece. Theophrastus, around 300 BCE, described edible mushrooms in his major ancient Greek botanical work, Historia Plantarum. Mentioned by Pliny the Elder - 1st century CE - and in Chinese texts attributed to traditions dating from the Han era - roughly 2nd century BCE to 1st century CE.

Therefore, mushrooms could be described as the unsung heroes of the kitchen. With mushrooms in mind, then Italian wines would seem the logical partnership: you need a wine with depth, clarity and strength to work with the array of dishes that can be created with readily available fungi.

Not many people have tasted the Nerello Mascalese grape. It is an indigenous variety from Sicily primarily planted around Mount Etna. Fair to call it ‘under-the-radar’, and unless you have closely followed the wines from this island, then it will have never appeared as an option.

Sicily has grown a significant international following over the last few decades, establishing the island as a significant player in the global wine market. Diverse terroir, volcanic soils, varied climates, and importantly increased investment in modern winemaking practices, combined with a resurgence of traditional techniques, has enhanced grape quality and refined production.

Calderara Sottana is a notable wine-producing area located in the Etna DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) region on the northeastern slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily. It is becoming known for offering unique, high-quality wines that reflect the extraordinary characteristics of the volcanic soils that sit on Mount Etna.

Production from the winery Tenuta delle Terre Nere started in 2002. This Etna Rosso - Calderara Sottana - is produced from vines that are between 60 and 100 years old, planted between 600 and 650 metres above sea level, and positioned on the north side of Mount Etna, and they make make around 10,000 bottles, or 800-850 cases, of this wine. Small production.

As you head south in Italy, you may feel that the wines would become richer and heavier. Not so here. These are refined and very elegant. Light in colour, with noses that need to sit in the glass to open up their rich texture. If you enjoy top flight Red Burgundies from the warmer vintages, then these would tick that box to perfection. There is elegance here but with a slightly rounder profile, a touch more richness, softer and much more approachable at this age.

All three vintages of this wine - 2021, 2022, and 2023 - have a very strong house style. Grippy tannins sit alongside wild cherries, with nuances of oak, strawberries, smokey earth, dark cherries, a touch of heat pervades the corners, blackcurrants are always present. Delicacy and closely observed and manicured refinement. Nothing has been left to chance: the winemaker has closely nurtured these exquisite creations.

The three vintages are all different. But then the same. They will drink in their aged order. If they are of interest, then buy 1 bottle of the 2022 as a sample. It is a tad more generous.

A recommendation: buy a mixed case of 12 bottles - 4 of each vintage - and plan a lunch, or perhaps two, where you might considering serving a rich chicken, mushroom and pancetta risotto with a crisp green salad. Drink these alongside each other in 2028 to 2030, and savour that Saturday afternoon. It will be remembered by your guests as you will have spoilt them with three exceptional wines. Wines that they will not have tasted before, and will talk about for a long time to come.

£52-£53 - Calderara Sottana - Justerinis - merchant link

Cheese - Gugu Blu - A new find

Loitering around Borough Market last weekend, I came across this delicious blue cheese. Intense flavours in a very creamy texture. More saline that Stilton but a much softer structure on the palate. The ‘crust’ is made from Zibibbo ( a Sicilian Dessert Wine) with figs and walnuts: a perfect foil. Goes well with the Etna Rosso above.

Drunk Cheese - link - www.drunkcheese.co.uk

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There are two Italian wines from Waitrose that should be bought for your cellar: a Barolo and a Brunello di Montalcino.

1 - Pio Cesare Barolo 2021

Slow cooking and truffles always spring to mind with a glass of Barolo in my hand. On an autumn or winter morning, with low clouds and mist nestling in the valleys around the hill towns, then the prospect of a hearty lunch is a very appealing option. The region is about 40 miles south of Turin, sitting in the middle of the broader Piedmont appellation, and growing only the Nebbiolo grape. Long associated with the House of Savoy - 1003 to 1946 - where the wines from this region were known as ‘the wine of kings, the king of wines’. From 1990 to 2004, the area under vine increased by 47% to around 2,000 hectares, mainly from US demand, with some of the top-tier plots now selling for northwards of €3m per hectare.

The House of Pio Cesare started in 1881, and they own approximate 80 hectares located across the Piedmont region. The grapes for their Barolo come from 9 different vineyards within the Barolo appellation, vinified in stainless steel, and then aged in large barrels of French and Eastern European oak for 24 months, before being placed in smaller French oak barriques ahead of the final bottling.

2021 saw an especially cold and relatively dry winter was then followed by a warm spring and a blisteringly hot summer that saw many producers struggle with drought conditions and a significant amount of canopy management was needed to protect the grapes. Yields were low but the quality is generally high.

This is a very classic Barolo with a modern twist. Historically, these wines needed a considerable amount of time to show their true colours, and although this is with doubt a classic Barolo, there is a forward amount of fruit combined with the tannins and acidity that is very approachable today, but the underlying factor is longevity. Superbly balanced and a very high quality wine that will accompany many rich winter dishes from 2030 into the early 2040s. Gracefully energetic but with refinement. A few years would just allow the tannins to integrate a smidgeon more: worth the wait.

£61.50 - Waitrose - link

2 - Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino 2017

The appellation of Brunello di Montalcino sits in southern Tuscany, where the vineyards flow amongst the gently rolling hills. The area under vine has grown from around 65 hectares in the 1960s to over 2,100 today. This is the pinnacle for the Sangiovese grape with vineyard elevations ranging from 150 to 500 meters. As the demand for these wines has grown, so has the pricing. However, given the rising cost of most fine wines around the world, for a wine that is 9 years old, has been superbly crafted, this is very good value.

Castiglion del Bosco is an interesting property. Records show that estate was established around 1100 AD with the construction of a castle (Castiglion) within a wooded area (bosco) in the Val d’Orcia. The significant change occurred in 2003 when it was acquired by Massimo and Chiara Ferragamo. In 2022 it was sold to an undisclosed international family office for an estimated €400m. Both del Bosco and Pio Cesare are brands within the Maison Marques & Domaines (MMD) portfolio - MMD is owned by Champagne Louis Roederer.

2017 was a tricky vintage with exceptionally poor conditions. However, as in every difficult vintage certain properties deliver outstanding results. This is a perfect example that a generalisation cannot determine the dedicated approach of focused and accomplished winemakers.

There is an engaging richness here that sits very comfortably on the palate once the first taste has been experienced. Is this the most enticing, desirable and really enjoyable Brunello that I have tasted in many years? Unquestionably, yes. Will it feature at dinner parties over the coming years? Yes. Generosity in spades. Velvety textures sit perched to invade your senses as this evocative wine works its flawless magic. This will evolve a touch over the next 4-6 years, but it is very, very drinkable today. It is a class act.

£61.50 - Waitrose - link

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With ‘Dry January’ heading to closure, it might be time to stock up on a few bargains before sharpening the corkscrew for 2026’s vinous delights.

Waitrose have another 25% off season, and perhaps a few Chardonnays for consumption in the short-term could be a good way to replenish diminished supplies after the festivities.

1 - Domaine Seguinot-Bordet Petit Chablis 2024, Burgundy

I’ve been tasting a few 2024 Burgundies over the last few weeks, and it is definitely a White Wine vintage. Unless you head a long way up the ratecard. This has a light, refreshingly bright, nutty mid-palate, and if you were serving prawns in any guise as a starter, then this is perfect. Uncomplicated, very well-made, and at under £15 per bottle exceptional value. Petit Chablis is made from vines perched on the higher plateau soils, outside the main vineyard area. Historically, often overlooked as a ‘second’ wine but today, with the accelerating prices for White Burgundies, then a tad under the radar, and very, very good value. Immensely quaffable.

£14.80 - Waitrose - 3 or more bottles - link

2 - Craggy Range Kidnappers Chardonnay 2023, Hawke’s Bay

Great balance between the acidity and the fruit. Light, refreshing, medium-bodied and well constructed. Sits very comfortably on the palate and with roast chicken would be perfect for the Sunday lunch.

£16.80 - Waitrose - 3 or more bottles - link

3 - Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons 2020, Burgundy

This must be a bin-end. This price for a very well made Premier Cru Chablis with a few years under its belt is exceptional value. Therefore, I do not know how much they have available. Well constructed with a defined lemony zing and ripe peaches on the palate. This estate is owned by Louis Labour: consistently makes very good wines.

£24.00 - Waitrose - 3 bottles or more - link

4 - Rustenberg Five Soldiers Chardonnay 2024, Stellenbosch

If you are heading to the Cape this winter, pop in for a tour and tasting at this winery. Not as glitzy as Delair Graff, and the buildings have not been given the extensive makeover they have at Vergelegen. However, sitting in their garden enjoying a collection of their wines on a bright, warm afternoon is a very tranquil place to explore what this winery creates. If you enjoy Chardonnay with food, then this with the veal in the creamy, mushroom sauce works wonders as it would with a Coronation Chicken during the summer. It will certainly keep for a few years.

£26.40 - Waitrose - 3 bottles or more - link

5 - Shaw & Smith M3 Chardonnay 2023, Adelaide Hills

As I have written about before, this has a distinct cult following in Australia. With good reason. Rich and deeply satisfying, it just works every time you pour a glass.

£28.80 - Waitrose - 3 bottles or more - link

6 - Pierro Chardonnay 2022, Margaret River

There is often a raised eyebrow when I suggest buying an Australian white for over £40 per bottle, never mind the non-discounted price of over £50. However, this is one of the many excellent Chardonnays being produced in the Margaret River region, just south of Perth. Red apples, peaches, gentle element of lemon peel, hints of oak from the barrel fermentation and ageing. Graceful, delicate, balanced with a long finish. It’s not White Burgundy, but on the quality scale it matches and surpasses pound-for-pound. A wine to always have in your cellar. This will carry on providing exquisite drinking into the early 2030s.

£42.40 - Waitrose - 3 bottles or more - link

If your wine list for the festive lunches and dinners is looking a bit light in the pre- and post- departments, here are a few last minute sparklers and stickies available from the shelves of your local Waitrose, or via their online portal providing you order pronto.

1 - Cave de Lugny, Crémant de Bourgogne Blanc de Blancs

Pre-lunch. The two oldest cooperatives in Southern Burgundy, one founded in 1926 and the other in 1927, merged in 1966 to form a significant production entity that creates a raft of different wines from over 400 members. The Cave de Lugny has been exporting wines to USA and UK for over 40 years, and has three wineries. Many Mâcons, under a plethora of different labels and sold through many different retailers and merchants, come from this very well respected company.

The one making this wine is located in the village of Chardonnay and is dedicated to the production of sparkling wines. The term Crémant refers to sparkling wines made using the méthode champenoise but are outside the region of Champagne: Alsace, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Jura, Languedoc-Roussillon, Loire and Savoie all make Crémant.

I have promoted this wine many times in the past as I consider it to be the best value sparkling wine currently available in the UK. 100% Chardonnay, it is very well made, light and refreshing but the acidity is not harsh as it is superbly balanced.

£19.00 - Waitrose - link

2 - Hattingley Valley Classic Reserve NV

Pre-dinner. I do not know why Waitrose are selling this at a 33% discount, but they are. Hattingley is one of the largest English Sparkling Wine producers, based in Hampshire, just north of Alresford. Classic green apple on the nose and palate, with a touch of brioche, and lots of lemony flavours. Bright acidity tempered with balanced fruit and a good finish. At this price, it is exceptional value.

£24.00 - Waitrose - link

3 - Gosset Petite Douceur Rosé Extra Dry Champagne

Brunch. The wine trade loves Gosset. It is the oldest Champagne House, founded in 1584. It makes around 1.3m bottles every year, that is small alongside Möet with 30m+, and even its neighbour in the village of Aÿ, Bollinger making 2.5m. The total production for the whole Champagne region is around the 300m mark. Today, the House is owned by the Renaud-Cointreau group.

Eggs Benedict on a cold, frosty morning would lift the spirits. Made from a predominantly Chardonnay blend - around 60% - and balanced with Pinot Noir, it is aged for a minimum of 11 years in their cellar before release. Red fruits - strawberries and raspberries - sit very comfortably on the palate and there is a touch more fruit in this blend that lifts the taste buds.

£60.00 - Waitrose - link

4 - Louis Roederer Brut 2016

Christmas Day. Roederer needs little introduction. A family-run operation founded in 1833 and is now run by the seventh generation. I’ve been a long-term fan of this Champagne House, and there are always a few cases in my cellar acquiring additional ageing.

This wine is no exception. It is drinking exceptionally well today, but if you have a significant birthday, anniversary, need to celebrate between 2030 and 2035, then buy a couple of cases and hide them in a deep dark corner of your cellar so that you cannot easily pull out a bottle on a whim. A friend had organised a dinner a couple of weeks ago, and was serving the 2005. Deliciously fresh, with years still to go. This 2016 vintage is very well made and will age gracefully. Try a bottle or two over the next week or so, and would be perfect for New Year’s Eve.

£70.00 - Waitrose - link

5 - Blandy’s 2017 Harvest Malmsey

Mince Pies, late afternoon. If you have returned from a long, afternoon walk, and settling down with a pot of tea and a few mince pies or Christmas Cake, then this would be a perfect moment to enjoy a long forgotten wine. Light in colour, pronounced dried fruits on the nose, with a creamy, luscious, generous and delicious palate. Rich and candied. Served slightly chilled, and it would also work as a pre-lunch aperitif, lifting the palate and enhancing the appetite in anticipation of the feast ahead. Try it with a few walnuts. I’ll write more about the wines from this forgotten island in 2026.

£25.00 - 50cl - Waitrose - link

6 - Kopke Colheita Tawny Port 2005

Cheese course. A single vintage tawny port from a producer who knows how to make excellent wines. Pull the cork, no need to decant, and pour this wine into a smallish glass to sip and savour a superbly crafted wine. Concentrated woody flavours married with caramel, dried apricots and plums, very light touch of discrete acidity, and great length. Serve straight from the fridge door. If you are enjoying a robusto, then this would be a great match.

£31.00 - Waitrose - link

May I wish you all a very Happy Christmas, enjoy the festivities, and I look forward to providing direction on all vinous matters in 2026!